25th-27th April
The Matanchen Bay to Mazatlan leg was 126 nautical miles and an overnight. When we broad-reached down this stretch of coast three months ago, whales were everywhere, but now we were seeing very few, as the main whale-watching season ended in April. In one short stretch of sea we passed several sea turtles basking at the surface, each with a bird perched on its back, a convenient pelagic resting spot. And a pod of dolphins joined Honu one night and perked up Bernard's otherwise uneventful watch.
It was after dark when we anchored at Isla de las Piedras at the south end of Mazatlan, but we were familiar with the spot so it was easy. The anchorage was rolly as ever, but it was just for one night and we were too tired to care.
The next morning we motored over to nearby Club Nautica, at my insistence. Bernard wasn't keen; he lobbied for heading straight to Marina El Cid where that lovely jacuzzi pool was calling to him. But I wanted to try out the older - and free - anchorage for just one day and night, to be just a short walk from the Centro, my favorite part of Mazatlan, and to save money, and he finally gave in.
Club Nautica's name sounds much nicer than the place turned out to be. It's just inside on the breakwater of Mazatlan's big commercial harbor and just next to the hill topped El Faro - the Lighthouse - a striking Mazatlan landmark. Once upon a time the Club was the place for cruisers stopping in Mazatlan. But since the bigger, modern marinas were built in the Sabala Estuary north of the city, with their piped-in water and electricity hookups at each slip, Club Nautica's popularity has waned, though our guidebook pointed out it's still a good option for budget-minded cruisers. And I'm the budget-minded one of this crew, Bernard the relative spendthrift.
Club Nautica's small anchorage was fine, and it was fun watching the huge fishing, cruise and ferry ships glide in and out through the narrow harbor entrance nearby. Rather than go to the trouble of launching our dinghy for just one night's stay, we inflated and paddled our kayaks ashore. We discovered the slow leak in my kayak had gotten worse. But it stayed sufficiently inflated just long enough for me to reach the dinghy dock, and we brought the pump with us so we could get back to the boat later. On shore there was a dinghy dock and showers available for a modest fee. I was expecting basic facilities, but was shocked at their condition...the place was a dump. We hurriedly showered with the doors wide open, touching as little as possible. Seeing my disgusted face Bernard couldn't resist an "I told you so" comment or two.
We shook off the experience and strolled to the Centro where spent a really pleasant day shopping, munching on pastries and coffee, and discovering interesting murals, shady courtyards and arty nooks and crannies we hadn't seen before. After repeated visits the Centro hasn't lost its enchantment for me; I could return again and again.