Not happy and not a pleasant day. Heavy winds (30-35) and 3-4ft waves on the river and right on the nose. Iolea handles it easily with a rocking motion. Lot of water over her bow in the process and some into the cabin because of a loose hatch cover (tightened now). The issue is not the wind or waves but wind waves and tide and shoaling channels. We left on a rising tide to minimise the chance of running aground but when you are in these conditions it all becomes more difficult and the consequences a lot more severe. Today the tide will be a foot higher than usual and if we were to ground on a downwind shore the wind would trap us there. Paul is on the helm and doing an excellent job with David and me on Chart plotter and paper chart checking the route. In the end I lost my nerve and insisted we stop and wait until the wind eases. We are now on a windy berth outside Beaufort and have just been to the local marine store to replace a fender that burst as we heaved into the dock. Sometimes it would be nice to have a small maneuverable boat rather than a large heavy one with a long keel (makes turning a lot more difficult). Then again she is so comfortable and her performance in disturbed water and high wind show that she is definitely a safe blue-water boat.

A last few pics from the trip so far

Easy motor down to Mosquito Creek today coloured by the occasional blast of wind and rain. We left on the rising tide to avoid groundings but still managed a minor grounding getting into this creek - lesson is to call ahead when possible to find out what is happening with entries. We called the shrimp place we are docking with just after we got off the bank and they calmly directed us to the other side of the creek for entry (contrary to the chart!).Odd little place. Out of the way. Just a few locals and dogs and lots of oysters and shrimp. Town has a population of about 10. Met up with another couple heading south and sheltering from the weather (Karen and Jim from Vancouver). We are both tied to a ricketty wharf on wobbly cleats. The wind is back-broadside and pushing us off the wharf and so we have reinforced ourselves with 3 lines to stern because high winds expected tonight. The local weather station is broadcasting special warnings for wind and cold. The cautions are detailed - "you should stay indoors and keep warm. Woollen scarves and jumpers should be warn and you are advised not to reduce your thermostat below 50f. Elderly people and pets should be checked and if pets cannot be brought inside you should ensure they have blankets or other means to keep warm. Keep a tap dripping to avoid frozen pipes....".You can feel the strain of the boat against her lines in a blow, almost as though you were straining with her. Strange feeling but keeps us connected to what is happening with her.

This was a stop worth making. A lovely town on the ICW (mile # 466) that is worth chilling out for a few days, time permitting. Alas for us we're on a tight schedule. That said we did slip in two nights here to soak up the atmosphere.

Woke to rain and a leak in the galley! Note sure from where but a sheet over a couple of bolts outside the cockpit seemed to do the trick. Another task to add to our list when we arrive in Ft Lauderdale. Last night we went to Hymans for dinner. A seafood restaurant like a rabbit warren with celebrity photos over the walls and room after room of tables. Good atmosphere and more food than you can eat. Today we have pottered around with laundry and wandered through town - similar to Paddington in feel and fabulous shops (can't fit anything on the boat though and will be in summer most of the year). We are berthed in the Municipal docks and every so often a giant tanker or cruise liner looms by.

We arrived around 4pm to Georgetown last night which was a first and gave us time to go to the local fish co-op and deli. Pretty town. The main street is straight out of a movie set with two storey wooden homes in pale lemon, blue or white with shutters and trees lining the street.

Today we left later than our usual 630-7am so we have the benefit of a higher tide to get us through some notoriously shoally areas. We plan to have a layover in Charleston before taking to the sea on late Sunday (waiting for a southerly to come through) for a 2-3 day haul to Fort Lauderdale

This is the "bridge" leg. Along the ICW there are 53 bridges. Most are fixed at 65' and there is a smattering of bridges that open on the hour or at request. Today we face 12 bridges. 9 of these are fixed but since we are 63.5' and the bridge is 65' and we have had v.high tides it meant slowing to a stop before each of these to be certain we would fit underneath. The plus though was the beauty of the area - trees and gracious homes with rolling lawns to jetties and a gazebo.

Bridges come in many forms. From the left clockwise: fixed, lifting arms, pivoting arms, and vertical sliding up and down its towers.

Took US-tow 3 hours to get us off that dam shoal. Good though, was that it gave Kate time to catch up on the writing for the blog.

Took it very easy today. The tide is particularly low and so whoever was on the helm had to concentrate hard. The channel in this area runs down into Cape Fear and then parallels the coast. V. flat with mile upon mile of weatherboard houses facing towards the beaches. The last part of our day brought a v.low tide and in the main channel we had only two feet of water underneath our keel. There is also no option for anchoring for at least 30 miles and our first attempt into a marina resulted in running aground in silt this time. We were urged on by the marina owner who maintained there was good water after "the hump" but we backed away and found a safer dock.

Scooped cutting boards with handles also excellent buy. Can use them to serve and food doesn't slip off the sides.