Semuc Champey
30 June 2018 | RAM Marina Rio Dulce Guatemala
Bert - Cloudy but warm
We just returned from a trip to Semuc Champey. Semuc Champey means “Where the river hides under the stones” It consists of a natural 1000 ft limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabón River. Atop the bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools and it is a popular swimming attraction. Although it can be difficult to get to, Semuc is becoming more and more popular with visitors. We can attest to the fact that it is not easy to get there. The road from Rio Dulce to Semuc Champey is mostly a narrow dirt road climbing through the mountains and along the Cahabón River. The views are incredible but after 5 hours of bouncing you are happy to arrive.
We stayed in a great Hostel “Vista Verde” in the hills of Lanquin with a private room but above us was a dorm. We were clearly the oldest guests and most backpackers were of the age of our oldest grandson. This was our first experience with a hostel, we prefer a little more comfort in a good hotel. But this was pleasant experience. This hostel had little cabanas with 2 private rooms on the ground floor and a dorm on the second floor. These cabanas are scattered on the hill around the reception area and the restaurant. On top of the hill is a small swimming pool with astonishing 360-degree views. The room was a little bare, but the bed was comfortable, and the veranda had a great view. The hostel is owned by a brother and sister who slept overnight on the floor in the reception area. Due to the bad road conditions guests arrive sometime in the middle of the night. We were woken up one night when we got neighbors at 2 AM.
Not only were the other guests very young the majority were women. They told us that it was easy to travel alone since in the hostels it is easy to get together with other guests and in many cases continue the trip together. We met people from many countries around the world: Germany, England, Ireland, Norway, Denmark, France, Australia, New Zealand, the USA and the Netherlands. We also met a large family from Guatemala with their 3 married children and 9 grandchildren.
We took the complete tour which includes transport in the back of a pickup truck to Semuc Champey, a visit to the Kan’Ba caves, swinging off a giant swing into the river, tubing down the river, a break for lunch and then hiking to the viewpoint and time to swim in the pools. The tour of the Semuc Champey caves is great for the adventurous but not for the fainthearted, no helmets and no headlamps, but just a candle.
The tour guide painted everyone’s face with a black substance from the walls. In my case the 2 ladies in our group Hanna and Ruth did it. I don’t know if it was bat guano, but it was very difficult to wash off.
The first part of the cave tour was simply wading through the water holding onto a rope along the slippery wall. It was pitch dark without a candle and since my group consisted only of 3 people and 2 guides if your candle gets underwater there is no light anymore until someone lights your candle again. I declined the optional precarious climb and leap into a dark pool below, but Ruth the tough lady in our group did it and bruised her leg. The scariest part of the tour was when the tour guide helped you slide through a very small opening and then plunge into the water below. The candle went out, it was pitch dark and you had no idea where to go. But the two ladies took care of me and we safely exited the cave.
We walked a bit further up the river to a giant swing from which we could leap off into the river below. I did it and regretted this activity since I bruised my ribs upon landing in the river.
We then walked another 5 minutes up river to where the waterfalls at the bottom of Semuc Champey cascade into the river below. We took a lot of pictures of this incredible place.
After lunch we walked to the entrance of the Semuc Champey park and to the starting point of a steep 30 minutes climb to the most unique viewpoint. We hiked to the location where the river goes underground and the natural bridge with the 5 pools starts. After a nice swim in one of the pools we hiked back to our truck and drove back to our hostel.
Dorothy and I were the only dinner guests, but we had a great dinner and we danced with the lady staff and one of the owners, a beautiful lady with a smile that lights up the darkest day. We developed a very special relationship with her and she cried when we left.
The next day we kept it quiet, stayed around the hostel, enjoyed the view around us and I tried to heal my bruised ribs.
Our drive back to Rio Dulce was besides the road conditions very good, only 6 people in the van and we arrived well but very tired in the early afternoon back on Island Girl.