Itsagooodlife

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Captain’s corner

11 March 2019
Berit & Bjørn

January

11 March 2019
Berit & Bjørn
It’s been a while… Updating you on what has been happening in 2019 – up to now.
Berit wanted to see grandchild Wilhelm on his 2 years birthday and left Temerity and the Captain alone in Whisper Cove Marina on the 10th January and stayed in Copenhagen until 28th. Meanwhile the captain had a peaceful time and decided to do some necessary work on the boat. The lockers in the cockpit were looking bad and painting them with gelcoat is smelling terribly – so a convenient time to work on this.

11 March 2019
Berit & Bjørn

11 March 2019
Berit & Bjørn
There are always pending projects on board any boat and jobs that need to be done. The chart table in the upper saloon really needed varnish and became another project for the lonely captain. See the before and after!!

11 March 2019
Berit & Bjørn

31 December 2018

Christmas in Whisper Cove

28 December 2018
We saved some Norwegian Aquavit for Christmas, and it goes well with the Carib beer!

On Christmas Eve we had a traditional Norwegian dinner with roasted crisp pork. It was a treat, but we missed being together with the children and grandchildren. Christmas is not the same without them.

28 December 2018
Happy cruisers

On Christmas Day we were invited by Mary and Gilles to a fantastic lunch in the marina together with the cruisers living on board here. It was a wonderful afternoon with nice company, champagne cocktail, gorgeous food and good wines.

28 December 2018
Jean Pierre is normally taking care of the dock, but he also helps with the food.

Voda, voda, vodka, vodushka......(Water, water, little water, dear little water)

28 December 2018
Our drinking water tank was contaminated a while ago, and we cleaned it and disinfected it with some special chemical for that purpose. But then there has been a trace of chemical smell and taste to the water. One day we looked at the blog of our crazy friends Marianne and Kolbjørn on board Impuls. They have had a similar problem, and they solved it by pouring vodka into the tank. Brilliant idea!!
Why are they crazy? They are heading for the Antarctic! Actually, they are the real adventurers while we are having a warm and lazy life in the Caribbean....

Work

18 December 2018
Polishing the stainless

On a yacht there is always work to be done with repairs and maintenance. Some days are lazy, but now and then things has to be done. Like polishing the stainless. And when we have worked through all the stainless there is it is time to start over again....

Shopping

18 December 2018
In Shademan´s bus

A couple of times a week Shademan comes to the marina with his bus to pick up cruisers who need to go shopping. He then takes us to the bank, the hardware, the ship chandler and the shopping mall with its excellent supermarket. It is really a social thing and quite fun!

Birthday

18 December 2018
Heat knife???

On my birthday I was looking forward to the good Wednesday Pizza in the marina, but Bjørn had a surprise. When we came to the marina restaurant a car was waiting outside and took us to the very nice restaurant Sails in St Georges for a romantic dinner. The birthday present though was quite expensive, but not exactly romantic. A heat knife to cut ropes!

A new Home Harbour - Whisper Cove Marina

10 December 2018
Whisper Cove Marina

We have changed our plans about going to Trinidad. The main mast is getting worse and we don´t want to risk 70 miles of open sea......

10 December 2018
A view from the main road down to the marina and Temerity. This walk we take every afternoon to get the heart rate going.

Someone recommended a boat carpenter here in Grenada, and when we have been asking around we only have heard good things about the carpentry Driftwood in Clarkes Court Shipyard on the south coast of Grenada. Just across the bay from the shipyard is a really cozy little marina; Whisper Cove Marina. We have got a deal with the carpentry, the shipyard and the marina, and here we will stay for a long time.


10 December 2018
2nd Sunday in December, brunch in the marina

10 December 2018
Sunday Brunch in the restaurant

The marina is run by Mary and Gilles, a couple from Montreal, Canada where we lived for almost four years. It is small, only 14 berths and some moorings. But the facilities are fine and there is a good restaurant/bar with a nice atmosphere and reasonable prices. People are coming in with their dinghies for a coffee, a drink, a chat or a meal from the bays around. And maybe best of all, there is a small butcher shop with real good quality food and things you can´t find elsewhere, and there is always fresh lettuce and delicious tomatoes!


Grenada - The Spice Island

02 December 2018
Temerity is quite a small yacht in Port Louise

After Round Island we sailed down to the main island of Grenada and anchored in the bay outside St Georges, which is normally a fine anchorage. But we had a terrible swell from the north and went into the upscale and very nice Port Louise Marina after one day. It was a good feeling to be back in Grenada and enjoy the special atmosphere of this place.

Grenada - a small country with a turbulent history

02 December 2018
The commercial harbor in St Georges

Grenada was deemed the property of the king of Spain from 1498 although there was no Spanish settlement on the island. The French started colonization around 1650 but lost the islands to the British in 1763 as part of the peace treaty after a European war.
Both estate owners and slaves preferred the French rule, and there was a rebellion led by Julien Fedon who became a mythical figure in the local folklore. The revolt was overcome with a lot of bloodshed and Grenada was British until independence was granted in 1974. The leadership was given to Eric Gairy who treated the new country as his private kingdom. He was overthrown by a communist movement lead by Maurice Bishop. He was a "kind communist" who did a lot to better living conditions for people, and he is still popular. The airport and the main road on the island are named after him. But he was cooped by a more militant Moscow trained group who shot Bishop, his ministers, his pregnant girlfriend and a lot of civilians during several days of total curfew.
Ronald Reagan was afraid of a Soviet Air Base so close, and in 1983 Grenada was invaded in a U.S.-led operation code-named Operation Urgent Fury. The invasion was highly criticized internationally, but anyway the country has been democratic since then.
The hardline communist leaders, known as the Grenada 17 are imprisoned for lifetime in a prison on top of a hill overlooking the city of st Georges.

Isle de Ronde - Round Island

27 November 2018
Quiet early morning in Corn store Bay with a view to The Sisters and Grenada

This is the southernmost of the Grenadines except for some rocks between here and Grenada. There live a couple of families on the south side of the island, but for the rest it is uninhabited. Corn Store Bay in the north is a very idyllic anchorage although it could be a little bit jumpy when the swell finds it way in. About 5 km to the west is Kick em Jenny, Caribbean's only active underwater volcano. When there is an eruption the waters around are dangerous because the gases makes the density of the water lower than normal, causing Archimedes Law not to work. Vessels have disapered there......Luckily nowadays there are warnings!

Tyrrel Bay Oysters

27 November 2018
Warrior opening oysters for us

Inside Tyrrel Bay there is a protected mangrove swamp were there are some special small and very tasty oysters. On our last evening in Carriacou we bought a couple of dozens from Mr Warrior and enjoyed them in the sunset.

Alone in paradise

01 November 2018
Temerity with Sandy Island in the background

The weather was back to normal and we went to the uninhabited little paradise Sandy Island just outside Carriacou. Turcoise water, swimming and snorkeling, the pelicans diving for fish all around us....

01 November 2018
Temerity alone at Sandy

Most of the time we were all alone in this paradise. René and his small sons came by every day and offered live lobster, fresh fish, avocados, mangos, papayas and vegetables. We had no internet but didn´t miss it.

01 November 2018
The "new" dinghy

While in Rodney Bay we made friends with the American Ricardo who had just bought a Janneau 57 with a too small dinghy. As our old dinghy was more or less useless we got us a new used with a double aluminium bottom - very comfortable! Bjørn spent some time pumping out water from it after the rain, it must have been a hundred liters!

01 November 2018
A Beach Bar in Tyrrel Bay

After Hillsborough we went to the little Marina in Tyrrel Bay to fill up with terribly expencive water since we were not able to produce our own in the stormy weather earlier. We had some more bad weather to come. It was not windy, but the heaven was opening up and it poured down for three days.

Carriacou

01 November 2018
The busy main street of Hillsborough

After two days and three nights the wind calmed and we left PSV for the island of Carriacou and made a stop in the main town, Hillsborough to shop and check in with customs and immigration to the country of Grenada. We love the atmosphere in this lively town! After the formalities the first thing we did was to visit Patty´s Deli. For the first time since Rodney Bay we could buy goodies such as smoked real ham, prochutto, salami, pepperoni, roasbeef, good cheeses and a lot more. We left some Eastern Carribean dollars there....

The Grenadines

21 October 2018
Alex the Lobster Man sold us a wonderful black fin red snapper before we left Admirality Bay

Between St Vincent in the north and Grenada in the south there are several beautiful small islands, some inhabited, some not, and it is only a short sail from one to another. When we come from the north, Bequia is the first. After a couple of weeks we left Admirality Bay and sailed to Friendship Bay on the south cost of Bequia. It is a beautiful place, but we stayed only one night as the swell crept in from southeast.

21 October 2018
On shore in Canoan

Next Grenadine was Canoan. This island is divided in two parts. In the north there is a huge resort with golf and tennis courses, and it is closed. Most locals live in the south, and that is also where Charlestone Bay, the main anchorage is. We went ashore and met some friendly people, but there was not much to do. It seems the resort doesn´t contribute much to the wealth of the island.

21 October 2018
Then it was Mayreau. We have always enjoyed this small island with its little village on the top of the hill. There is a beautiful anchorage in the north, Salt Whistle Bay, but this time we stayed all alone in Saline Bay outside its wonderful long sandy beach. Unfortunately we had to leave after a couple of days. The house batteries didn´t feel well and we had problems with keeping up the fresh water production.

21 October 2018
A Clifton street

On the next island, Union, there is a tiny yacht club in the main town of Clifton with room for a handful of yachts, so that is where we went. It did feel good to stay at a pontoon with 230V after three weeks at anchor. Clifton is a colorful little town with bars, shops, a nice farmers market, restaurants and a kite club. It was quiet this time of the year and many places were closed. Still we had some really good meals ashore while the washing machine was doing three weeks job in two days. We also met Toby, a nice Englishman in a bar. He is a charter captain and much more, and gave us a lot of information. And not only that, the evening before we left for Petit St Vincent he came with a newly caught barracuda for us.

21 October 2018
One moment it looks like this, the next everything is chaos....

After three days in harbor, it was good to be at anchor again and swim in crystal clear turquoise water outside Petit St Vincent. There is a nice exclusive resort on the privately owned island with bungalows scattered around, but no one live there permanently. As it is out of season the place is closed and there are only a few maintenance workers from the nearby island of Petit Martinique. However, the peace and quiet lasted just one day. We had a couple of windy days and nights with gusts up to 35 kts. The anchor had very good hold in deep sand, we felt safe and therefore decided to stay. Constantly strong winds makes you quite tired, and it is also a little boring to stay under deck and wait for better conditions.

Lazy days in Bequia

03 October 2018
On The Main Street

Yes, we are still here in Admirality Bay, enjoying the tranquility and ambience of Port Elizabeth and the surroundings. It is even more peaceful than normal; just a handful of cruisers, a couple of charter cats and a few tourists that come with the ferry from St Vincent. By the way the ferries are old Norwegian vessels that used to be in traffic on the western coast of Norway before the oil billions made it possible to build bridges to every little island up there.

03 October 2018
Outside the Supermarket

The town is the same as it was when we first visited in 2007, the same charming streets, shops and bars. Unfortunately it is so out of season that the little resort is closed where we used to have our sundowner rum punch. We miss Jimmy the barkeeper!

03 October 2018
The old wooden whaling scooner in Port Elizabet

Luckily Jet Skies are forbidden in St Vincent and the Grenadines, also in Grenada. You can swim and snorkle without risking your life, and the wildlife is benefitting from the ban. Whenever we look out to the sea we see turtles all around us, and a lot of different fishes. Yesterday we saw a huge stingray.

03 October 2018
Alfred

We also have got a new crew member, Alfred. He is a brown boobie bird who has setled himself on our pulpit. Theese birds are very quick in the air and dive for small fish and sqids. They often use the shaddow from the sails to better locate the meal when we are at sea. But Alfred found out he can just sit on the pulpit and observe the surroundings. Then he throw himself into the water when something turns up and has a good catch. He gets a lot of food, the smart bird.

26 September 2018
At anchor in Admirality Bay

Bequia - one of our favourites

26 September 2018
The Pitons, A St lucian landmark

We said goodbye to St Lucia as the caracteristic Pitons dissapeared behind us, passed St Vincent and anchored in Admirality Bay outside Port Elisabeth just after sunset. We saw the sun dissappeare in the ocean, - and a very significant green flash! It is a phenomenon that occures under very spesific athmosferical conditions and when there are no clouds on the horizon. A good omen!

Marigot Bay

26 September 2018
We made a short sail south to Marigot Bay where we stayed the night and checked out of St Lucia early the following morning.
Marigot is said to be one of the most beautiful bays in the whole of the Caribbean, and there are not exactely a lack of competitors.
You cannot see the bay when you pass outside. The Windward Islands have been now and then Spanish, French and Brittish, they were alwais fighting. During one of the combats between the French and the Brittish, the Brittish fleet hided inside Marigot and diguised their rigs with palm leaves.The French fleet passed outside and was defeated when the Brittish suddenly atteced from behind.

Leaving the bay of Jambe de Bois

26 September 2018
Maybe he looked lke this?

It is said the first European setler in St Luca was the fearsom French pirateFrancoice le Clerc in the 1550s. He and his band had their base on the top of Pigeon Island where they had a good overwiev of passing Spanish galleons filled with gold silver and jewels. They picked them one after another.
His nickname was Jambe de Bois, and yes he actually had a peg leg. wether he had a parrot on his shoulder is not known, but there certainly are some very colourful burds on the island....
jambe de Bois activities were blessed by th French king Henry II as they were in war with Spain. He died in action among the Azores as one of the richest men in France.

An unpredicted storm

26 September 2018
The force of the wind and waves managed to bend theese solid stainless steele rods that holds the ropes supporting the anchor chain

We were peacfully anchored i Rodney Bay when one morning while we were making coffee the wind suddenly increased and turned west wich is directly into the bay and a very unusual wind direction. The rain fell so heavy we could not see anything, the windwaves made us bump up and down, the anchor chain was banging and the wind gusted upto 45 knots. It was a little scarry, but the anchor held and no other boats drifted around us. After a couple of hours everything calmed down. This short and intense storm was not predicted on any of the weather sites, so you can never feel completely safe when at sea!

Enjoying the anchorage in the bay

13 September 2018
In the channel out of the marina loaded with petrol for the charger

We have now been out anchoring for a week, enjoying every moment. The new little portable generator gives us the exta power we need to produce our own water and makes us feel safe that we can charge the batteries.

13 September 2018
On the way to the Anchorage under Pigeon Island

13 September 2018
Happy Captain on Happy Cat

Everyday life is simple. We swim around the boat in crystal clear water, go saling our happy cat for fun or for shopping, eat, drink, read and swim again.

13 September 2018
Florence, Isaac and Helena on their way!

Luckily we have internet from a resort nearby and can monitor the hurricanes on their way over the Atlantic. So far they have passed far north of us. They are very predictable and can easily go south to avoid them should one system take a more sotherly route. Anyway, the plan is to go south in a weeks time.

Six weeks in Rodney Bay Marina

13 September 2018
Outside the marina office

After six weeks we got the items we have been waiting for so long, got them installed and tested, and everything woorks!
Much of the idea about beeing liveaboards is to se new places and to find beautiful anchorages. Then it can be fun to go into harbour for a shorter time to do shopping and visiting restaurants and bars, rent a car and look around. But six weeks is too much! That said, Rodney Bay is a nice place to be. People are very generous and big smiles come easily. And it is nice to be adressed as "sweetie" or "darling" while out shopping. It is also a safe place. Us wimsy old people once forgot the wallet at the marina minimarket with 700 EC $ (aproximately 200 euros) in it. After some hours we realized and Bjørn went to ask, not expecting too much. But the young man in the shop said he had been waiting as soon as he saw Bjørn and found our wallet, everyting intact! meeting such nice people makes you feel happy.

Captains Corner

09 September 2018

09 September 2018
Not very often this captain makes mistakes … But this time two in a row!
Like Samuel L Jackson said in “Die Hard”….I am getting to old for this shit – but NO - things are getting better:

Wrong decision – believing that the charger would transit from 110 – 220 automatically – a bang was heard and fuses blown
After having read the manual changed a wire inside and put on power – another bang

Now I did not dear to put on the other after having removed the right wire without waiting for the electrical wonder boy “the stick”. He came – fixed the 2nd charger – 2 hours – no problem. The first charger has to be fixed in Trinidad.

After the charger had been running for 24 hours Batteries 14 volt! We finally could test out all equipment. GPS, radar, wind instruments, navigation lights, deck lights and water pumps
ALL WORKING PERFECTLY!!

09 September 2018
Wrong decision – the generator – manual only in French!! To get easily to the oil filler, I tipped the generator 90 degrees and started adding 0.6 liter – everything out on the teak deck!

Again “the stick” passed by; NO - NO you cannot put it on the side – the oil will pass through the air filter and leave the engine - HOW COULD I KNOW….. So engine upright - found a thin hose filled the oil – Working like a clock

So out anchoring. Charger, generator and then water maker all working perfectly

09 September 2018
When you are a cruiser you need to know a little of everything. Electricity is made very difficult over the years. In the old days it was red is positive, black is negative and green/yellow is earth. Then EU changed it to be brown is positive, blue is negative and green/yellow keeps the same. When we get US equipment everything is changed again with different colors for 220 and 12 volts.

This picture shows some completely different colors again – and it is French!!! It is not easy to be a captain!

Lobster Time

02 September 2018
The lobster season just started and we bought two live ones on the pontoon and took out the big lobster pot for the first time this year. The big one will be "thermidor" for dinner and the small one "au naturel" for lunch the day after. Yummi!!

Here they are!

02 September 2018
Finally on Friday the chargers arrived with the ferry from Martinique. Bjørn thought it would be a simple task to mount them, but unfortunately it turned out more complicated than anticipated. We have to wait until after the weekend to get some proffessional advice. Hopefully "Stick" (he walks with a stick), the tecnical genious in the harbour will have time for us.

Tomorrow something will happen!

30 August 2018
Barbara, the Happy Cat

They will arrive with the ferry from Martinique tomorrow!! Unbelievable!! It has been a long and frustrating period of waiting and uncertainty, not being able to plan anything. We have occupied ourselves with small projects on board and actually got a lot of things done, but there have been moments of apathy which we have fought back by doing something fun, like mounting the Happy Cat and go sailing.

30 August 2018
The Monster Pontoon

The E-pontoon used to be our favorite with a view to beautiful villa gardens and far away from the noisy main road, but now it is occupied by charter catamarans. They have probably come here from further north for the hurricane season as quite a few insurance companies have changed their policy after last year’s terrible season.

30 August 2018
The diver Clive did a very good job cleaning the hull for barnacles. It will mean 2 knots difference in speed when we go south, hopefully soon...

Still waiting.......

21 August 2018
An occasional sundowner at the Boardwalk Bar

The chargers did their second Atlantic crossing in the end of last week and are now stuck in customs at the airport in Fort de France, Martinique. It seems that #%!?/¤!! Amazon sent them by US Snailmail, and now nobody is responsible.

21 August 2018
Hoisting the mizzen in hope of soon being able to move

Life goes on in Rodney Bay. It is nice, but expensive. With our battery situation we don´t dear to go out anchoring which would of course cost nothing. We just wait, hope, do small jobs and try to have some fun.

21 August 2018
Plantains, they look like bananas, but taste more like potatoes

We are buying fruits and vegetables from a nice lady who comes to the marina twice a week to sell her organic fantastic produce. I also learn from her how to prepare the local products we are not used to. For instance potatoes, like most things that grow under the surface, are difficult in this climate. It is too hot and moist and too many bugs. Bjørn loves his potatoes, but they can easily be replaced by plantains.

Everyday life in Rodney Bay

14 August 2018
Two of the four solar panels that give us 20 amps and just keep us going

Time is passing by and we are still waiting for our chargers. First they spent two weeks traveling crisscross USA before they ended up in Miami. Fine! - we thought - there is a three hours direct flight from Miami to Martinique. Only some days later we learned that they were at Charles du Gaulle airport, Paris. Then they spent five days crossing Paris to Orly airport. We wonder if they soon will do their second Atlantic crossing....

14 August 2018
Prepearing lunch

Meanwhile life is good. We do small jobs on board, go for walks and follow the little bird family living in the next-door boom. Father and mother were busy feeding two chickens until they came out of the nest one day and started to try flying. A little clumsy in the beginning, but after three days they were like fighter pilots!

14 August 2018
Not the usual crowd on the pontoon

Last weekend there was a Rasta music party on Pigeon Island, and the marina was filled with powerboats and partying people. Quite fun, but not much sleep.

Captains corner

10 August 2018

10 August 2018
A small thing caused a lot of trouble

10 August 2018
Here in the crane it hided

Some old captain ones told me...if you name your boat - please say Mayday Mayday
Mayday before the name of the boat and you will probably find that your choice was not
so good!!
After having been towed in for the 3rd time - the fear was water in diesel or dirty filters. but NO... After having filled the diesel filter up 3 times and bleeded the system the engine runned nicely but only for 5 minutes. So the conclusion was clear - no diesel from the tank and this little thing created our big problem this time. After having taken apart the pipelines from the tank here was where it was stuck. No the engine runs smoothly like a cat!! And the enormous satisfaction of having done everything yourself - no cost!!

10 August 2018
Just before we left Martinique going to Europe we found this rot in the main mast. This is why we decided not to put any sails up on our way between Martinique and St Lucia. We have changed that decision and will put up the small staysail and mizzen for our further sailing towards Trinidad.

Dramatical arrival in St. Lucia

04 August 2018
Pigeon Island seen from the "right" side

We are now in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia enjoying lazy days – finally!

It was a little hectical and a lot of work in Martinique as we were in a hurry to leave after the boat had been there for 18 months and we would have had to pay VAT to France. So off we went for St. Lucia with no sails up as we have a rot in the main mast. The forecast said waves of 1.3 meters, but we had 3 – 5! A sailboat needs sails to stay stable, so we had a terrible trip, not dangerous though. We were very relieved when we saw the characteristic Pigeon Island outside Rodney Bay getting closer. Then the engine stopped and we were drifting into the Caribbean Sea driven by heavy wind and high waves.......We got in VHF-contact with the rescue center in Martinique and were finally towed into Rodney Bay Marina after a couple of not so pleasant hours.

This is the third time we have been towed in to this place!!

Back in Martinique

02 August 2018
The beautiful little family

We left Temerity in Le Marin, Martinique in the end of October last year. It has been some wonderful months in Europe with Amalie and Aleksandrs wedding ceremony on the 9th of June in Copenhagen and the following celebrations in idyllic northern Skjælland as an absolute climax.

02 August 2018
Afternoon champagne with Leif in Faz Fato

Apart from that we have been enjoying the Algarve, the delicious local foods and good wines together with friends. We have had long walks on the beach, played boule almost every Tuesday, had some wonderful Sunday lunches in beautiful Alcoutim by the Spanish border together with Roger and his friends. We have also made new friends, Laura and Andrea who are now staying in our apartment.

02 August 2018
Serious discussion between captains Roger and Bjørn in Alcoutim

02 August 2018
With Wilhelm, Amalie and Aleksandr on the beach in Barril

We have had some very welcome visitors from Scandinavia. First we had a lot of fun with Nina when she visited from Oslo late February. Then we enjoyed the company of Wilhelm, Amalie and Aleksandr during Easter.

02 August 2018
Wilhelm helping Bestefar with the sudoku

Everything is as normal here on board. We have already been in Martinique more than three weeks, the expected chargers did not arrive and we are still waiting. Luckily our solar panels just manages to keep us going. The first ten days we stayed in an apartment up in the hills while cleaning Temerity inside and outside. It was not as bad as we feared after being abandoned in tropical climate for so long. We are now well established on board and will update the blog regularly.

Christmas in Denmark

24 December 2017
The Christmas Tree is indoors and being decorated. Isn´t it beautiful?

Today is the day of Christmas Eve, and we are in the countryside outside Copenhagen, looking forward to celebrate the holidays with our children and grandchildren. Outside it is grey, cold and windforce gale, but inside Hilde and Michaels farmhouse the ambience is warm and cosy.

24 December 2017
Caroline helps bringing it home together with some fresh brussel sprouts

24 December 2017
We found it!

24 December 2017
Wilhelm and Aleksandr

24 December 2017
Out looking for the perfect Christmas Tree

Enjoying Portugal

07 December 2017
Life in our lovely apartment in Portugal is very easy and comfortable compared to living on board. Of course this time we cannot swim in the ocean, but there are alternatives.

07 December 2017
And the landlubber captain loves his ice machine

07 December 2017
We go for long walks in the beautiful landscape of Algarve.

07 December 2017
And we enjoy the good local food and the wonderful wines, all very reasonably priced – when did you see anything like this in the Norwegian Vinmonopolet?

07 December 2017
And we are playing with friends. Here it is boule in Sta Lucia after a fabulous octopus lunch with Eva, Maria and Rudi.

At home

05 November 2017
We feel that Temerity is safe and secure in Le Marin, and it is good to be in our nice and comfortable appartement in Tavira again. The Algarve oranges are the tastiest in the world and we start the day with fresh juice. The refreshing light Vinho Verde is for later during the day!
A lot of work

A lot of work

05 November 2017
Packing the main sail

Temerity is now clean inside and outside. The sails have come down. The engines have new filters and oil. The ropes are cleaned and stowed. Water intakes are closed. She is well tied up to three buoys in front and to the pontoon back. We were quite exchausted and ready to leave, happy to move on, but also a little sad to leave Temerity alone for so long.........

05 November 2017
Changing oil and filters

This beautiful Perkins engine has never let us down as long as it gets good diesel.

Things are sorted out

22 October 2017
Yoles in the bay on our last day in the anchorage, Ste Anne

We sent mail to the Marina applying for a birth for 9 months, but after 4 weeks we still have no answer, so we left the anchorage and went to the shipyard Carenantilles and had a talk with the very nice lady, Anne, who administer the place. They normally don´t let yachts stay in their little harbour longterm, but she was kind enough to make an exception for us. We got a reasonable deal to stay until the beginning of July 2018. It felt very good to have made a desicion and forget about all the uncertenty we have felt the last couple of months.

22 October 2017
Cleaning the anchor chain after many months in salt water and marking it for every 5th meter - 2 red + 1 blue = 25 meters

The tickets are ordered and confirmed, we are leaving for Tavira October 30th! That means we have one week to prepare Temerity to stay alone in the harbour and find someone to look after her. The list of things to do is long, but it feels good.

More Power Problems

18 October 2017
At anchor in Ste Anne

One early morning we woke up from what sounded like a shot. There was no reasonable source on board, so we thought it must have come from ashore. After a short while there was another «shot». We got up and started the generator to put the washing machine and the dishwasher to work, brew coffee, produce water and charge the batteries that gives us 12Volt. This is essencial as light, freezer, fridge, water pressure, toilet flushing and all navigational equipment takes 12 volt. NO CHARGING! Both our 70 amp chargers were out of use. They were only 4 years old, but could not be repared. Another 2000 euros after the 2500 we spent on the generator!

18 October 2017
Two rotten chargers

Thierry, the engineer at YES was kind enough to lend us a charger for some days, and we went out to Ste Anne to anchor, relax and think about what to do. Then after some days the generator went wild again and could not produce the right voltage!!! In addition it was leaking diesel. We turned off the freezer which was anyway almost empty and could just survive with the solar cells on the bimini. But only in sunny conditions, and we are still in the rainy season.....

It was time to make some major desicions. We decided to leave Temerity in Martinique, go to Portugal and return next July with some more mony on our accounts.

Now we are looking forward to spend Christmas in Denmark with our children and grandchildren, celebrate Amalie and Aleksandr´s wedding in June and to have a long stay in beautiful Tavira and spend time with all our friends there.

Wilhelm 8 Months

28 September 2017
Yesterday he was 8 months. Isn´t he just adorable with his smile and two small teeth?

Captains Corner - The Generator or Gen Set

25 September 2017

25 September 2017
A sceptical looking captain and his generator

This machine has one functionality; Produce 220 Volt - primarily so that we can charge the batteries, but of course also for using our dishwasher, washing machine, vacuum cleaner and so on.
This engine has been an everlasting problem ever since we bought Temerity. But now it is a major problem since we anchor as much as we can and are absolutely dependent on it working. When not working we have to go to harbor every 3 nights. Before the problem was electric, but now it stopped due to water in the oil - bad work from an engineer in Lanzarote.
Everything is now fixed - but we are crossing our fingers every time we start the generator!!
My good friend and sailor from Australia, Hans once told me that he considered throwing the Genset overboard and use it as a mooring!! So it is not only us having this problem.

25 September 2017
The generator is getting into Didier´s dinghy on its way to the workshop

Then the next problem - both our electrical chargers stopped working and we are looking for solutions to have two new ones. Again crossing our fingers for not having too expensive solutions. Luckily we could borrow a charger from YES (the boat engineering company) so that we could go out anchoring in stead of staying in the expensive and mosquitoinfested shipyard!

After Maria

25 September 2017
A stranded yacht on the beach

When things calmed down, we left the shipyard to go anchoring in nearby Ste Anne. Strong winds and heavy swell had driven two boats from the anchorage to the beach. Obviously some wreck thieves already had been there stripping the yachts. It was a sad sight.

25 September 2017
The Churchyard in Ste Anne

When in Ste Anne we often take a walk to the beach in the afternoon, and then we pass the churchyard. Here as is quite common among the islands, people want their dead to have a beautiful view to the sea.....

Maria

20 September 2017
Tuesday morning on our pontoon in Carenantilles

Once again Martinique was kept safe from the horrible impact of a grade 5 Hurricane. Our neighbor island to the north, Dominica was terribly hit and also parts of Guadeloupe, and now people are again suffering in Puerto Rico.
Here in Le Marin we had strong winds and swell and a lot of rain, but little damage. Some yachts were dragging and hit others, but as far as we now, nothing seriously. We woke up yesterday to a lot of rain and thunder. Logs, bushes, coconuts and debris was floating in the water and banging against the hull.

Here in Le Marin people in the community, locals and cruisers are preparing to organize help to those who are suffering in the north, but so far they have not been able to establish contact with Dominica.

Martinique August and September 2017

18 September 2017
A view from our balcony

Today we sit under deck in rainy weather, safely tied up in the shipyard in Le Marin. Everything is prepared and secured before the hurricane Maria will strike sometime during this evening. The center will pass well north of us, but it still could become rough. Anyway, we are quite confident.

We arrived in Martinique late July and decided to stay in a small studio hotel in St Luce the first week while cleaning and tidying Temerity. Unfortunately we didn´t have much time to enjoy the beautiful surroundings as we worked from morning until evening. We just kept awake to enjoy a dinner on the balcony before going to bed. At least we had some entertainment while working on deck. It was time for the yearly Tour des Yoles Rondes de la Martinique. People were partying and it was quite spectacular when they arrived in Le Marin after one of the legs.

18 September 2017
Tour des Yoles Rondes de la Martinique arriving in Le Marin

After almost 4 months away from Temerity there is a lot to do both under and over deck, and we also had the cockroach’s problem. They seemed to have died out while left to themselves with all the cockroach hotels we put out all over the boat before leaving. But to be on the safe side we had a professional pest control company on board. Since then we have seen only one monster, but it was a flying one, the sort they call a mahogany bird on the islands, and we immediately sprayed it to death.

18 September 2017
There are many strange floating objects to observe in a big marina

Having got rid of the monsters we felt the need to clean every little corner of the boat and everything on board. It has been a huge job which still isn´t totally completed. We have emptied every closet and drawer, cleaned and washed all cloths, linnen, cutlery and every item on board before putting them back to their clean places. The dishwasher and our fantastic new washing machine have been working all day long.

Finally we rented a car and went provisioning big style before heading south. But the generator had other plans for us...........

Portugal – Last Chapter

08 September 2017
Bjørn at our favorite bar by the river in Tavira

We are still in Martinique, although the plan was to be further south during the hurricane season. But we do not decide, the generator does. More about that later.......Anyway Irma passed north of us and hit St Marten, Barbuda and Antigua among others really badly. People are suffering up there.
We want to sum up about Tavira before proceeding to the Caribbean. There are many good reasons to go to Portugal; the beautiful scenery, the climate, the nice people, the delicious food and wine and most of all to catch up with friends.

08 September 2017
Next door neighbor Kay and Bjørn on our balcony

Over the years we have learned to know many nice people in the neighborhood, both those who live there permanently and those who visit now and then. We meet for a drink, a chat and maybe a meal on each other balconies and share news, thoughts and laughter. From time to time we walk down to the center for lunch, dinner or music and dancing. It is a good place to live!
We also have friends who lives elsewhere in the area, especially a lot of Swedes. We are a group who meets once a week for lunch and boule; nice meals, some friendly competition and a lot of fun!

08 September 2017
Eva on their beautiful rooftop terrace

A couple of years ago we accidently met former neighbors from Oslo. Eva and Anders are renting an apartment in Fuseta with a wonderful view over Ria Formosa. Actually they are the parents of Knut Andreas, one of Aleksandr´s best friends throughout school, who is also going to be best man when Amalie and Aleksandr are getting married next summer. - A small world!

08 September 2017
Roger and Mogs

This time we also met fellow cruisers who we didn`t meet since the Canaries. First we met Anita and Bjørn Terje on board Linea in Portimao. They returned to Europe after having cruised in South America and the Caribbean for some years. We spent a very nice afternoon on board their beautiful x-yacht, and they visited us and stayed the night. We will sure meet again somewhere.

08 September 2017
Roger and Berit in Adega Nova in Faro

We had a second meeting with Roger and his cats in Faro before he left for England.

Portugal May to July 2017

16 August 2017
The river Gilao and the old Market in Tavira

We are now back in Temerity in Martinique and want to open the blog again, but before we post something of The Carribbean, we want to say something about our three months in beautiful Tavira, Portugal.

16 August 2017
Iberico ham on the balcony

It is always good to come back to our home in Tavira, and one of the first thing we normally do is to buy an Iberico ham!

16 August 2017
17th of May in a Portugeese setting

As we were in Algarve in May, we had to participate in the celebration of Norways National Day arranged by the Nordic club Carpe Diem. This year it was held in a nice restaurant on the beautiful beach in Alvor in western Algarve. We stayed in Alvor for two nights and had a great time.

16 August 2017
River Rats in Alcoutim

Our good friend Roger, stayed in his boat Warrior for Life on the river Guadiana which is the border between Portugal and Spain. Of course we had to visit him and his two companions; the cats Mogs and Pim. The cruisers on the river use to meet for Sunday Lunch in the village of pittoresque Alcoutim on the Portugeese side. We spent a wonderful Sunday afternoon in very nice company with a lot of good food and drinks.

16 August 2017
The Tavira Horizon

We spend a lot of time on our balcony outside the kitchen, actually most lunches and dinners at home. This day the view was special as the horizon showed as a distinct line.

Denmark

13 June 2017
Eirik, Amalie, Wilhelm, Aleksandr, Caroline and Jonathan

We travelled from Puerto Rico to Copenhagen to meet our new little family member, Wilhelm for the first time, and to celebrate Easter with the whole family. Amalie and Aleksandr had arranged for Wilhelm´s Christening on Sunday April 9th. After a very nice ceremony in the church it was lunch at Amalie´s parents nearby. Little Wilhelm was surrounded by love from his 3 great-grandparents, 4 grandparents, his 4 aunts and their families and Kornelius, Aleksandr´s cousin. He is a lucky little guy to have so many caring people around him!

13 June 2017
Amalie and Wilhelm in Bonderød

We spent 3 wonderful weeks in Denmark, alternating between Copenhagen and Hilde and her family’s farm house in rural Bonderød, an hour´s drive south of Copenhagen. And we had yet another pleasant meeting with a, for us, new family member; Elisabeth´s new partner, Anders.

13 June 2017
Anders and Bjørn enjoying G&T while coocking

Puerto Rico

30 May 2017
Enjoying San Juan

Our first stop was San Juan, the Capital of Puerto Rico, where we stayed for a day in the Old Town. We had time to walk around the city centre and enjoy the Puerto Rican Cuisine at small cafés. Of course we had to try the national dish Mofongo. The dish is defined by the mashed and boiled mound of plantain that serves as its base. Platain is a fruit that looks like a banana, but tastes mor like potato. This is formed like a pai and filled with any combination of meat, seafood and vegetables. Absolutely delicious!
It was a nice but short stay, and we are looking forward to return on our own keel to this island with its charming and peculiar mix of Spanish and US culture.

Leaving Temerity in Martinique

30 May 2017
Martinique Yoles training for the big event

It was strange to leave Temerity after one and a half year on board. Hopefully she is safe in the good marina in Marin. We will be back for Le Tour de la Martinique des Yoles Rondes. This regatta with the traditional yoles is the island's largest sporting event and is said to be very spectacular. We hope to see some of it.

At Anchor in Grand Anse d´Arlet

17 March 2017
Small and big boats at anchor in Grande Anse d´Arlet - The Ship is Royal Clipper from Valetta

We are having a one week holiday swimming and snorkeling before we go into harbor and start preparing Temerity to stay docked alone for three months when we leave for Copenhagen and Portugal. There are a lot of beautiful bays on the west coast of Martinique. Last year we didn´t visit this one, but now we are here, and it is really nice with a lot of sea turtles to watch.

Mysteries after Sunset

17 March 2017
Is something mysterious going on or is it just our fantasy?

Boat A is anchored and seemingly abandoned. There is no dinghy. Then boat B comes anchoring followed by boat C after a couple of minutes. There is one woman and one man in each of B and C. B put out the dinghy and they go to C. The lady goes on board C, and the man back to B. Then the man from C and the Lady from B goes to A and aboard. They do something over and under deck. Then the C-man comes out with full diving equipment and enter the dinghy. The B-lady hands him something, and off he is at high speed out of the bay. Then the B-man picks up the two ladies, and the three of them stay in B. It is now totally dark. After an hour or so, the C-man comes back and they all gather in the B boat. There is a lot to observe while at anchor among other boats, and with or without rum punches a lot of possibilities for the imagination.....

Drinking Water

13 March 2017
We are out anchoring again in clean waters. That means we can produce our own drinking water and of course the water we use for showering and cleaning. Normally the drinking water goes into a special tank, but it has been contaminated. Until we get it cleaned the drinking water goes into bottles. This is a new routine for the captain, and he really enjoys being close to the water maker that he is so proud of having installed himself. This doesn´t necessarily mean that he drink his product.

A Healthy Life Style

04 March 2017
At Mango Bay

We get one hour of exercise every afternoon. It takes 30 minutes to go to Mango Bay, and 30 minutes back.

Back in the Ship Yard in Le Marin

04 March 2017
The ship yard

We were at anchor outside Sainte-Anne waiting for the wind to calm a little before heading north towards Goudalupe. Then the anchor lost its grip in a heavy gust of wind, and we were dragging toward other boats. We could not start the engine; the engine battery was totally flat. It was a very scary situation! Fortunately we had a nice Italian neighbor that was alert and immediately came over with his jump cables and helped us. We got started and headed for the ship yard where we got help the same day. The electrician checked and tested everything but could find nothing wrong.

04 March 2017
A view to the local church yard

As we had heavy winds we decided to stay at dock until it calmed a little, and we were quite uncertain what to do. After a couple of days Bjørn discovered that the engine battery was very low even though we had shore power and the charger was running all the time. AHA!! The battery don´t charge from the charger, only from the engine. When the electrician was here, the engine had been running, and that is why he couldn´t find the problem. Now we have to wait until they can come back. It is Carnival time, and now the weekend comes……… We have decided to stay in Martinique and book a flight from here to Puerto Rico to catch the flight to Copenhagen.

04 March 2017
And there are quite a lot of dead boats too among the mangrove

New Friends!!

26 February 2017
Leanne and David at the Vine Bar “20”

A couple of years ago our Australian friends Jo and Hans visited us in the Canary Islands. We had a lot of fun while sailing among the islands together for a month. Some time ago we got a mail from them telling us that friends of them were in the Le Marin Marina with their newly bought Amel Super Maramu 54. Friends of Jo and Hans had to be nice people, so we contacted Leanne and David, and they invited us for drinks and snacks. David is as Hans and Bjørn an air traffic controller, and Bjørn claims that it is always fun to meet a fellow controller with partner. He surely was right this time as well! We really had a nice time together.

26 February 2017
Jazz and Blues at “20”

After the drinks they took us to their favorite bar in the marina, and we enjoyed it so much we spent three late nights there together (so far…). The food and drinks were reasonable and very good, and one evening they had really good live music. For some reason we have got up later than normal in the mornings lately…

In Southern Martinique

26 February 2017
Market Day in Le Marin

While waiting for the generator we alternated between anchoring outside Sainte-Anne and charging batteries at dock in the shipyard. We rented a car for a couple of days and did some heavy shopping; wonderful French food and wines. It was fantastic after the rather simple and extremely expensive supermarkets further south. That said, Martinique miss some of the real Caribbean charm and feel that you find further south. Even the buildings look more European than Caribbean. It is after all France and EU for the good and the bad. Here we indulge in French cheese and wine, but miss the fishermen coming in their small boats to sell their catch, sometimes live lobster for 8 € a kilo! You simply have to enjoy what is best in the island you currently visit…..

Celebration

18 February 2017
Pink champagne in the sunset while the generator is gently humming and producing beautifully stable 230 Volts

The Generator works!

18 February 2017
The source of troubles - hopefully no more!

When we came to Martinique, we docked at the shipyard in Le Marin, and they put us in contact with two very good but busy technicians. We had to wait a couple of weeks, but when they finally came, they worked very systematically and did a wonderful job. It was a little hard for the captain to admit that it was the French who finally solved our problems…….

Fun and Obstacles in the Windward Islands

18 February 2017
Sunset at the Plantation Bar

After giving up having the generator fixed in the Grenadines we headed for Bequia and the yearly Mont Gay Music Fest, four days with reggae, steel band and blues. Most of it we enjoyed from cockpit, but when it was a night of blues at our favorite bar, we just had to be there. It was a long night of fabulous music, dancing, dinner buffet and of course rum punches!

18 February 2017
Fixing Rudder

After resting a couple of days, we set course for St Vincent. But we didn´t get far. Just outside the reef Devil´s Table in Admiralty Bay we lost the steering!! The rudder didn´t respond to the wheel. After a while we found out that we could slowly turn to starboard. Luckily we were able to turn around and drop the anchor. Bjørn immediately started checking, and found the problems. It was a good thing he was able to repair the steering without having to contact a specialist!
Then we had an extra night in Bequia, happy after a shaky incident.

18 February 2017
Rainbow in Rodney Bay

The day after we decided to skip St Vincent as there had been some violent crime recently, and started at sunrise for St Lucia. Most of the way we had a beautiful sail. We stayed a couple of days in Rodney Bay, visited the Boardwalk Bar, but there were no afternoon regatta this time of the year. Anyway, as we were eager to go to Martinique and have the generator repaired we engine with the wind in the nose and saw Martinique getting closer. Then, half way the engine suddenly stopped! The only thing we could do was turn around and get the sails up. Luckily we reached Rodney Bay in daylight and were towed into the marina by a very competent Rasta with his beautifully painted Water Taxi “Rule the Tide”.
We didn´t have a good experience with the Rodney Bay mechanics, so while thinking about what to do, Bjørn called his good friend Truls in Marigot Bay and asked if he had any advice. And he had: A diesel engine only stop working if it’s not getting fuel.Change the fuel filters! AND RIGHT they were clogged! After having changed all 3 the engine, happy to get clean fuel started!!
THANK YOU TRULS!!

Hipp Hipp Hurra!!!

04 February 2017
It is the Captain´s 70th Birthday today, who would believe that!?

04 February 2017
70 Years Young!!

04 February 2017
He will get a new razor for birthday present…….

04 February 2017
And the little one is one week!

A new Family Member!!

02 February 2017
On January 27th at 12.45 Amalie gave birth to hers and Aleksandr´s first child. He was born a week early, but was still more than 4 kg and 52 cm. Isn´t he just adorable!!

The Generator

19 January 2017
The black lines shows how we have been sailing between Tyrell Bay, Hillsborough, Clifton, PSV and PM the last weeks.

We got the new voltage regulator, and our friend and mechanic, Manny, installed it. But……-…..it turned out that there were additional problems. It is necessary to lift the generator out of the boat to search for where the problems are. Manny could do that, but he had a problem with time and couldn’t guarantee it would be ready in time for us. Thus we have decided to go to Martinique where there is a licensed Onan (the make of our generator) dealer.
Even if it was a terrible disappointment not to get it fixed, it feels really good to have made a decision and go for a new plan. Tomorrow morning we head north. We will hurry, but not more than we will make room for a couple of fun stops!

19 January 2017
This is where we anchor outside Petite St Vincent. It is not a bad place to spend time waiting!

19 January 2017
Small boats outside Petite Martinique. The locals paint, decorate and name their small craft with great care and creativity. They have names such as Incomin, Gratidude, Fair Deal, My decision, 9Lives, Guidance, Tiger, Handy Man, Bushman….

Still waiting…..

09 January 2017
New Year Fireworks from the resort on PSV

We are still waiting for the voltage regulator. It has reached Grenada, but somehow is stuck in customs. Besides the mechanic’s wife was hospitalized, so we just have to wait and see. Meanwhile we are alternating between anchoring at PSV (Petite Saint Vincent) and going to the tiny marina in Clifton, Union Island, every 4th night to charge the batteries. Sure, these are nice places, but we do want to go north….

09 January 2017
Fellow boaties

09 January 2017
Water breaking around the reefs

09 January 2017
Not a fly in the soup, but maybe a flight. It is only a fence between the Yacht Club and the local airport.

Christmas at Union Island

27 December 2016
Good Intentions for 2017

It is not us who decides where to go and where to stay. It is our generator. The solar cells can provide enough energy for maximum three days, so without a working generator we have to go to harbor to charge the batteries from land power. The harbors are scarce and expensive. But here we are in Clifton, Union Island, trying to get hold of a new voltage regulator from somewhere in the islands or the US. That said, this is not a bad place to spend the holidays. Union is a beautiful island, and Clifton is a very charming little town. We are enjoying ourselves while the bank account shrinks for every day!

27 December 2016
The Kite Beach outside Clifton

27 December 2016
The Anchorage Yacht Club

27 December 2016
In front of a pile of empty Conch shells. It is the ingredient of a local delicacy called lambi, often served as fritters. It tastes a little like crab cake, very good!

27 December 2016
The local fruit and vegetable market

27 December 2016
Christmas Day walk in dangerous environments

Everyday life in Carriacou

18 December 2016
Live Lobster directly from the fisherman

We have been on this peaceful little island that is a part of Grenada for three weeks now, alternating between Hillsborough, Tyrrel Bay and Sandy Island. This was not planned, but we have been waiting for a new start engine for the generator. Meanwhile we have been enjoying the island. Things seem to be fixed by tomorrow.

18 December 2016
A stroll in Hillsborough

18 December 2016
Mandalay passing Sandy Island

18 December 2016
Red Snapper for dinner today

18 December 2016
Beach bar in Tyrell Bay

18 December 2016
It is fun to bake with yeast in this climate. Everything gets fluffy! Homemade fishburger, fresn burgerbread, lettuce, pickled cucumber and aioli for dinner....

Finally Internet access !!

10 December 2016

Le Phare Bleu

10 December 2016
A walk on the shore

While waiting we took a trip to the south again and explored Clarkes Court Bay and the ship Yard there. It was good anchorage, but quite crowded. While out sailing the cat, we discovered a very charming little marina and resort in a small bay further east. We decided to take the cost and indulge in the luxuries of this beautiful harbor for some days.

Calvigny Island

10 December 2016
Calvigny Island seen from Le Phare Bleu

West of the bay is a small privately owned island. It has luxury accommodations for about 50 people, and is owned by a Swiss weapons dealer. The island can be rented for about 170.000 US$ a day if you are interested!

Vesrta Banken

10 December 2016
The Lightship Vestra Banken

In the marina there is an old Swedish Light Ship called Vestra Banken, built in 1900, and shipped from Stockholm to Grenada in 2006. It serves as bathrooms for the marina, and there is a little museum and library. There is also a sun deck where you can have a snack, and a very nice little bar. They serve maybe the most intoxicating rum punches in the Caribbean. We ordered one each and the captain had 2 thirds of mine as well as his own. After the sundowners we went to the resort restaurant for a delicious lobster meal. Bjørn appeared quite normally until we came back to the boat and he had to go to bed right away. The next day he could not remember having eaten lobster. What a vaste!!

Mandalay

27 November 2016
Back in St George´s we were anchored beside this beautiful old yacht. Originally she was a private yacht built in Copenhagen in 1923 for an American. In 1935 she was bought by the Norwegian shipping magnate Vetlesen and renamed Vema. During World War II the Vetlesen family donated her to the US Marine. She was used for patrolling and training cadets. After the war she was used as a oceanographic research vessel. She is now a tourist cruiser in the wind Jammer group under the name Mandalay.

Returning to Grenada

27 November 2016
Kick em Jenny and Isle de Ronde (not round at all)

We left Grenada a month ago, heading north, and enjoyed the peace and quiet anchoring outside Isle de Ronde. Unfortunately we had a heavy thunderstorm one night, and our biggest sun cover was torn. We decided to go back to Grenada and find a sail maker. The orning is fixed and we are still here…….

Captains Corner

11 November 2016

Work done in Granada

11 November 2016
Batteries
We have had problems with our batteries for a long time and feared we had to change all 6! + the engine battery. “Everybody” is saying that your batteries will not last for more than 5-6 years and ours were turning 7 this year. Fortunately we found a super electrician who was also a fridge/freezer specialist. He tested our batteries and said 3 is gone – the other 3 is as good as new!! I said but.. but they are turning 7 years – and he replayed: I tell you a secret - I have batteries in my home that are 14 years this year – still good! So he saved us for around 2000 US$. Then he looked at the freezer and said the problem is too thin wires from the batteries – let me change them and everything will work OK - and again he was right. We will surely use this guy again next year!!

11 November 2016
Impeller
Probably the most important part of your engine.
We found “smoke” coming out with the exhaust from our generator and wondered what it was. After a while I found that it was damp not smoke, meaning there was not enough water to cool the engine. So check the intake inlet and the impeller.
Then the same thing took place with the engine (beautiful 6 cylinder Perkins 135 HP!!) Again check the saltwater inlet and impeller and YES – this one hasn’t been changed for a long time.

11 November 2016
Chain connection
Not very often we are using more than 50 meters of anchor chain – but when anchoring at more than 8-9 meters and with expected heavy winds we do. We have 50 meters of new chain attached to the anchor and then another 50 meters attached with this device. Fortunately we did see this before it passed the anchor winch.

Farewell to Grenada

29 October 2016
Our Grenada Courtesy Flag in the Pan African Colours, a central star for St George’s and 6 smaller for the other regions, - and an image of the nutmeg. This is the number one export article from the Island! Little Grenada produces 40% of the nutmeg consumed on the planet, only Indonesia produce more. And who would consider a rum punch without freshly grated nutmeg?!

Tomorrow we start sailing slowly north again heading for Puerto Rico in the end of March as we have a flight from San Juan to Copenhagen on the 31st. There we will meet Berit´s grandson for the first time!!!!! He is due on February 4th, which is Bjørn´s 70th anniversary!!!
We are already looking forward to return to this friendly beautiful Island next year.

Cruising in Southern Grenada

29 October 2016
We have spent the last couple of months alternating between Port Louis Marina in St George doing work on board, and lazy days cruising between the bays in the south. Prickly Bay is very popular, but we stayed only one night. Bingo Results on loudspeakers all over the bay is not our first choice of a nice evening on board....

29 October 2016
A Neighbour saving a kiter drifting ashore in Mount Hartman Bay

Mount Hartman Bay was much more peaceful, the surroundings really beautiful and there was a nice little restaurant and bar in Secret Harbour. We spent some days there before we had a scary experience when we had a 30 knot sudden gust from the side and the anchor lost its hold. We just managed not to hit any other yacht, but decided to move on, then stayed at cozy Hog Island for a while.

29 October 2016
Temerity in St Davids Harbour

The next stops were Petite Bacolet Bay and St David’s Harbour where we checked up on the ship yard for a possible place to do some work next winter. The scenery was absolutely fantastic, but the anchorage quite rolly. One evening we treated ourselves to be picked up and brought to the nearby Sagesse Bay for a lobster dinner by one of the islands most beautiful beaches. Fantastic!

Mount Carmel

11 October 2016
Grenada is an extremely beautiful island for cruising with its sandy golden beaches and sheltered bays surrounded by mangrove and deep green hills. But the island also has a fantastic inland witch we have just started to explore. There are lush green hills, rain forests, waterfalls and fragrant spice trees that has given Grenada a second name; Spice Island.

11 October 2016
We rented a car one day and Bjørn drove around the island on the wrong side of narrow meandering roads with a lot of crazy drivers – quite exciting. After a while, though he drove almost like the locals. We past many places we want to return to, and made some stops. One of them at Mount Carmel where we had a short walk through the rain forest to see the Mount Carmel Waterfalls. Beautiful, isn´t it?

Ship ohoi Impuls!

03 October 2016
At the West Indies Brewery

It always means fun when Impuls come sailing into an anchorage or harbor. We were of course happy to see her coming to St. George. This time Marianne was not on board, as she is back in Norway hunting down the king of Norwegian forests; the moose! Instead Kolbjørn brought two of his good friends, Geir and Henning. They were not surprisingly a very nice new acquaintance for us.

03 October 2016
Studying the beer meny with the tanks in the background

We spent a fun day together, starting with the West Indies Brewery for beer tasting and lunch. Then we shared a few drinks on board Temerity in a very cheerful atmosphere. The day ended with the three guys inviting us for a delicious seafood dinner at a nice restaurant by the sea.

Nature’s own remedy

03 October 2016
Aloe Vera

We are not far from the equator, and the sun can be very intense. Mostly we stay in the shadow and put on a lot of sunscreen, but you cannot always protect yourself. Bjørn easily gets eczema from the sun. A local advised us to rub the skin with aloe vera. It immediately gave relief. This is really a wonderful remedy for all kinds of skin problems!

Grenada

29 September 2016
New batteries – a lot of power!

We arrived the beautiful island Grenada some time ago, and we are staying in Marina Port Louis in the Capital St George. It is convenient to stay in a harbor as we have had a lot of things to fix. The first thing was to buy and install new batteries. This was relatively easy and quick, but very expensive. We had to put other projects on hold for a while. Meanwhile we had lazy days and enjoyed the surroundings.

29 September 2016
A huge container ship in a small town

St George harbor is not very big, but very busy. Despite the narrow entrance and the size, huge cargo ships come and go daily. Of course Grenada is an island and depend on the efficiency of the harbor for its supplies.

29 September 2016
An old Norwegian Car Ferry

Not all the ships are that big. Admiral Bay is a car ferry going between the Grenadines. In the sunlight though, one can see in relief the old letters under the paint saying Haram – Ålesund. It means this ferry was in traffic on the Norwegian West Coast some 20 – 30 years ago!

Sandy Island

21 September 2016
Temerity is out there

After a stop in Hillsborough, Carriacou, to check into the county of Grenada, we anchored in LÉstere Bay outside a paradise beach. Unfortunately the dinghy rope got into the propeller! Luckily for us the help was not far away. Next morning Impuls came from Tyrell Bay around the corner, Kolbjørn dived and quickly solved the problem. Then both Impuls and Temerity got a buoy outside Sandy Island nearby. This wonderful tiny uninhabited island is a part of a marine protected area. The rangers have put out buoys to protect the seabed from anchors and chains.

21 September 2016
Bjørn, Marianne and Kolbjørn on Sandy Island

We spent some wonderful days among pelicans and turtles, swimming and snorkeling on the reef during daytime, enjoying a rum punch in the sunset and shearing a good meal in the evenings.

Isle de Ronde

21 September 2016
Sunset in Corn Store Bay

Our friends had an appointment in Martinique, so they headed north, while we headed south and made a stop in Corn Store Bay, Isle the Ronde. Yet another beautiful anchorage.

21 September 2016
Fishermen outside Isle de Rond early in the morning

Grenada Next

21 September 2016
Heading south towards Sisters with Grenada in the background

More Grenadines

09 September 2016
At anchor outside Canouan

Some of them are quite big islands, others very small, but they are all beautiful! We stopped first at Canouan where we found a nice anchorage despite of all the restriction on anchoring made by the Italian Mafia who owns most of the island.

08 September 2016
Happy Island and Palm Island seen from Union

We wanted to visit the charming town Clifton on Union, but the conditions were so bad we didn´t dare to leave the boat and go ashore. It will have to wait until next time.

07 September 2016
Red snapper on board Impuls

Instead we sailed to Chatham Bay on the other side of the Island. There we had a terrible thunderstorm with wind up to 47 knots! It lasted a couple of hours, and when it became quiet Impuls came sailing into the bay, and it was great to meet Marianne and Kolbjørn again. One day Marianne bought red snappers from the fisherman Neil and we had a wonderful meal of absolutely fresh fish. Another evening we brought some wine and went ashore to a small restaurant on the beach where they served rum and grilled barracuda, tuna, chicken, pork and delicious side dishes - a great evening!

05 September 2016
Next morning Neil took Kolbjørn and Bjørn to Clifton to check out of St Vincent and the Grenadines.

04 September 2016
PSV and Union

Impuls sailed to Carriacou, while we spent the night outside Petite St Vincent.

Beautiful Bequia

24 August 2016
At anchor surrounded by turtles

When we sailed in the Caribbean many years ago, Bequia was one of our favorite places. Had the island changed? – we wondered and fared. But no! Some more houses, but just as charming.

24 August 2016
Walkway into Port Elizabeth

24 August 2016
Port Elizabeth Main Street

24 August 2016
Ernie and Jimmy in the Plantation Bar serving the sundowner rum punch

24 August 2016
While Barbara is waiting to sail us home

24 August 2016
Filling up with fuel before leaving

09 August 2016
Happy Island and Palm Island seen from Union

We wanted to visit the charming town Cliford on Union, but the conditions were so bad we didn´t dare to leave the boat and go ashore. It will have to wait until next time.

Back in Chateaubelair after ten Years

02 August 2016
When we rented a boat ten years ago, we made our first stop on the island St Vincent here. It also was our first anchoring as we had stayed in buoys earlier, and it is quite a tricky anchorage with big differences in depth. I was on the front deck letting the anchor go, while Bjørn was steering the boat.
"Is the anchor out?" - "Yes, it is totally out!" - "Good!" - "No, it is not good, the chain is not connected to the boat!"
The anchor and chain were on 10 meters depth. We tried to berth at a small pontoon, but it was so much swell the boat could have been crushed. After some negotiation we were allowed to use a fisherman´s buoy for a relatively reasonable price. Three strange looking characters came on board, one of them looking like the Tolkien figure Gollum. He offered to free dive and look for the anchor, but it got dark before he could find it.
So, there we sat in the cockpit with some wine and cheese, rolling from side to side, listening to music and shouting from the village while generous fumes of ganja spread around us. We were not certain we wanted to go to sleep.......
At sunrise Gollum and his two companions climbed on board, and they managed to find and bring up the anchor!

02 August 2016
Thomas (Germany) and Jorge (Argentina) handing Bjørn the New Anchor

Well back in Montreal, Bjørn´s colleagues found this a funny story. A month later, on Bjørn´s 60th birthday we gave a big party. All the members of the Air Navigation Commission had come together and bought a very special anchor as a present for Bjørn!
And here we are, almost ten years later in our own boat, well anchored with the ANC anchor!!

Farewell for now, St Lucia!

02 August 2016
The island´s southern landmark; The Pitons

Marigot Bay

02 August 2016
We anchored in beautiful Marigot Bay on the way south. Unfortunately Doreen and Truls had gone to Norway, but we met the Norwegian boat Impuls again, and spent some good times with Marianne and Kolbjørn and their guests William and Nils.

Farewell gifts from Myrtle and Heralds garden

02 August 2016
Before we left Rodney Bay heading south, our friends brought us a wonderful gift from their garden; a box full of fruits. Starting in upper left corner, Wax Apples, Mangoes, Soursop, Chenet, Passion Fruit, Canistel and seasoning peppers. They were all delicious, and we enjoyed them very much!

New Friends

07 July 2016
Transporting the leaking dinghy from Ste Anne to Le Marin

In St Lucia it was great to meet old friends; Truls that goes more than 40 years back, and Myrtle and Harold whom we met during our time in Montreal. In Martinique though, it was as great to get new friends, Monica and Lars. They are originally from the northern part of Norway, but settled in Martinique some three years ago and have found the good life here. It is not difficult to understand why. Martinique is an island with a very beautiful landscape and long white beaches, and of course a very different climate from Northern Norway. But they claim that the people have much of the same mentality as up in the north: friendliness, hospitality and sense of humour. We believe them, and this is exactly how Monica and Lars are themselves!

07 July 2016
Inez showing something to Lars

07 July 2016
Pre-lunch drinks

They were helpful in every way and helped us out of some problems. And the hospitality! One Saturday morning they came and picked us up by car and took us to their beautiful home up in the hills. There we got to know some of their equally nice friends, had a rum tasting and lots of other liquids before we were served “fårikål”, a Norwegian dish with lamb, cabbage and black pepper. Then we had our first night in a quiet bed, and with air condition!

07 July 2016
Fårikål

07 July 2016
Monica, Bjørn and Lars in Trois-Ilets.

The day after we had a big and good breakfast before we were taken on a tour on the island and shown some of Monica’s and Lars favourite places. It was a very nice day indeed!

Captains corner - NAVIGATION

15 June 2016
GPS showing our position in the Windward Islands

Basic navigation has not changed much the last 3-400 years – since the Compass was used for navigation in ships.
“It is far better not to know where one is, and realize it, than to be certain one is in a place where one is not”…………
QUIZ;
What is the only factor to take into consideration when sailing that is not an issue when navigating an Airplane?
First correct answer will get a free weekend onboard Temerity (Airfare not included)
For you land crabbers out there it is probably only one North – o no – there is three:
True North, Magnetic North and Compass North – so what’s the difference? More about this next time!!

15 June 2016
Detailed image of our position

Scary Fishes

15 June 2016
These more than one meter long barracudas were observed around Temerity for two days, and suddenly swimming was not that tempting any more……..
We then read an article were a woman told how she was free diving and speared a five kg barracuda. We couldn´t live with being such cowards, so we jumped in and have been enjoying our morning bath since!

Another very Special Meeting

12 June 2016

We got a hint while in Lanzarote that we might meet a Norwegian called Truls Berg in St Lucia. One day in the chandlery in Rodney Bay we heard someone speak Norwegian, and there he was! Truls and Bjørn have known each other for a long time. They have met professionally as Truls used to be an airline pilot. They were also neighbors back in the seventies. It was special to meet again on the other side of the Atlantic after many years!
Truls now runs a bar in beautiful Marigot Bay alongside his partner Doreen´s very good restaurant, Chateau Mygo. We spent a couple of days in Marigot and were invited to a wonderful dinner in their home on top of the hill overlooking the bay. We are already looking forward to meeting again when heading south from Martinique!

Far away from home

02 June 2016
For most Norwegians Mills Mayonnaise is the one and only mayonnaise. Well our stock of Scandinavian products from the Norwegian store in Gran Canaria is empty. No more Mills, brown cheese, herring, dried lamb, reindeer or moose, nor aquavit or Gammel Dansk…..
But who cares!? – We´ve got coco nuts, mango, dorada and red snapper, and we´ve got rum. Actually you can by very good aged dark rum in 3 liters bag-in-boxes!!

Rainy Days

02 June 2016
There are rainy days in the Caribbean as well. And when it rains, it really rains. The visibility is reduced to a few meters!

A very Special Meeting

26 May 2016
Cassie leaving Rodney Bay for Marigot

In 1989 my (Berits) sister and brother-in-law, Leni and Hans-Petter, bought a ferrocement 43 foot sailing boat in Altea, Spain. The summer of that year my then 3 ½ year old son, Aleksandr, myself, Leni and Hans-Petter sailed Cassie from Altea to Sete in southern France. There we went into the canals an slowly sailed through the inland of France on the way north towards Norway. Aleksandr and I lived on board Cassie for 9 weeks, and had a fantastic trip.

26 May 2016
Lunch with Annlouis and Asbjørn in Marin, Martinique

The day after we came to Mindelo, Cabo Verde, in January, a Norwegian sailing yacht with the name Cassie entered the harbor. It had different colours and a new doghouse, but I immediately recognized Cassie from our French odyssey. It was strange after 27 years to see her again!

26 May 2016
Little Frida

Of course we had to say hello to the crew, Annlouis, Asbjørn and the cat Frida. They are really very nice people, whom we have met again in Martinique and here in St Lucia.

Cassie is in good hands!

Captains Corner

22 May 2016

Water in diesel filled in Mindelo, Cape Verde.

22 May 2016

We found a good mechanic in St Lucia, Toni, who said he would take out all water from the diesel and clean the engines. The injection pump was broken and had to be sent to Trinidad for repair. So we had to stay in this expensive harbor for 2 months before we finally could go out anchoring!

22 May 2016

First he used a stick with a gel which turns red when in contact with water. As you can see it was 10 cm water on the bottom of the starboard tank. Similar on the port tank.

22 May 2016
All together we carry around 1150 liters of diesel. We emptied around 50 liter before the diesel were clean.

Barbara

22 May 2016
Cleaning Barbara

Our dear Happy Cat has been in the water for over 4 weeks and has got herself a lot of barnacles and grass that needed to be cleaned off. The captain has named the cat Barbara after one of his favorite Swedish artists from the 80’s Robban Broberg. One of his song was about - Underbara - Uppblåsbara BARBARA.
I will not try to explain this closer to our English speaking friends.
(I know you will find a translation Dave!)

Martinique

19 May 2016
Anse l´Ane, 7.30 am after the first morning swim

After Rodney Bay we motorized the 20 miles up to Martinique. And the engine worked just fine!
As we were totally broke after the engine had cost us 5.000€ on top of all we spent in Las Palmas before leaving, it was very good to live “for free”. Anchoring cost nothing, we produced our own energy with solar cells and generator and we produced our own water. Fortunately we still had some goodies stored around in the boat.

19 May 2016
The little bay Anse Noire

This way we explored some of the very nice anchorages around Martininque. In the middle of May we received our pensions and were able to fill the boat again with French food and wine, as Martinique actually is a part of France and the European Union. Now we are back in Rodney Bay, St Lucia.

19 May 2016
The Diamond, a landmark in the south of Martinique

The Caribbean Feeling

19 May 2016
Sunset in Rodney Bay

It was a wonderful feeling when we finally could leave the marina where we had been trapped for two months. Our Caribbean adventure started at last.
First we stayed a while in the beautiful bay outside the marina; Rodney Bay.

HappyCat

28 April 2016

While waiting for the engine to be fixed, we need to have some fun. Sailing the HappyCat in the marina and out in the bay is one of our favorite activities.

Rasta Colored Food

28 April 2016
Steamed fish, coconut rice and mango salsa – it´s sooo goood!!

Marina Market

28 April 2016

Twice a week these ladies come to the marina and sell
their fresh and clean products. The fruits, vegetables and herbs are really very good and full of taste.

Harbor Regatta

22 April 2016
A good view from the bar

Every Thursday afternoon there is a regatta for J Boats in the Marina. You have an excellent view from the Boardwalk Bar, and the atmosphere among the guests is quite cheerful!

A fruit seller in the harbor

22 April 2016
The fruit boat

Every day this man sails around in the harbor and the bay and sells fruits and coconuts. His products are overpriced, but a lot of tourists gladly pay to be able to take some exotic pictures. Smart guy!

A scary moment

22 April 2016
A crack in the wall

The first week of our Atlantic crossing we had five meters of swell from the side most of the time, and they came with a high frequency. We were thrown 40 degrees to one side, the next moment 30 degrees to the other. This meant you had to hold on to something at all times, -quite exhausting!
One night after a shift at the wheel I (Berit) got myself ready to go to bed, and forgot to cling to something for an instant while opening a drawer. As a result I was thrown to the opposite side of the cabin head first, hit the wall with a big bang and made a crack in the wall. It was scary enough, but when I looked at the crack, I realized that three centimeters to either side, and it would have been fatal.
When I recovered it was with a sense of euphoria, thinking I am not meant to die yet. The rest of the crossing is going to be safe!!

A long walk

14 April 2016
A bar in Gros Islet

We need some exercise while waiting for the engine to be fixed, and it is good to get out of the Marina, even if the roads are trafficked and for the most without pavements. A nice, long (and hot) walk is through the local town, Gros Islet to the beach.

14 April 2016
Rodney Bay with Pigeon Island in the background

We are longing for the day we have an engine and can go out anchoring!!!!

ARC around the World

14 April 2016
Flying all the flags

There were festivities on the pontoon the other day when 14 ARC boats arrived. They seem to share a lot of fun and organized activities, though we think we prefer the individualistic and not so well planned way of cruising…..

A beautiful Bird

06 April 2016
During the last three days of our crossing two of these beautiful birds were following us and trying to land on board. We don´t know what they are called, but we think they will bring us luck here in the Caribbean!

Piton and Linie

06 April 2016
Our tradition with herring and aquavit for Saturday Lunch is still alive. We have the ingredients for a few more weeks. The Caribbean beer goes very well with Norwegian Aquavit!

Meeting with old friends

01 April 2016
Bjørn with Myrtle and Herald in Montreal 2007

01 April 2016
Berit with Alex and Herald, New Years Eve, St Lucia 2007

When Bjørn was appointed to the Air Navigation Commission of ICAO (International Civil Aviation Organization) from 2005 to 2009 we lived as diplomats in Montreal, Canada. During this time we met and became friends with people from all over the world, among them the lovely couple Myrtle and Herald from St Lucia. When living over there we visited them in St Lucia twice, and we kept in contact now and then after returning to Europe. It was great meeting them again after 8 years, being back in St Lucia with our own Temerity!

01 April 2016
A wonderful Sunday Lunch and afternoon in Myrtle and Heralds home in Rodney Bay, St Lucia, together with their friends Evril and Alex, spring 2016!!

01 April 2016
A part of Myrtles Garden

Cheers, Maureen and David!

25 March 2016
The Captain and The Scapa

The last time we visited Tavira before the crossing, our good friends and neighbors, Maureen and David were there as well. David knows very well that Bjørn loves his Single Malt, and now and then has brought a most welcome gift from his homeland to us in Tavira. This time they gave us a bottle of Scapa, which is a very special Single Malt from the Orkneys, and one of Bjørns absolute favorites. He promised to bring it across the Atlantic and not open it before we reached The Caribbean. When well berthed in Rodney Bay Marina, St Lucia, the bottle was finally opened, and it didn´t last very long! Cheers!!

Captain’s corner

15 March 2016

Hipp-hipp-hipp Hurraaaa - WHOW - Dream come true.

15 March 2016
The Crossing

After 2 weeks with thoughts about this fantastic event, it is time for some comments.
Since we left Las Palmas we have sailed over 3000 NM.

15 March 2016
Solar cell Panels

As stated before it was an exhausting 16 days from Cabo Verde till we reached St Lucia. We have now got the confirmation that it was lots of water in the diesel, which caused the generator and engine to stop. The coming week we will empty the diesel tanks and have service on both engine and generator. Then we will finally leave the harbor and go anchoring!!!
Fortunately we planned the trip well and had no real problems. Enough drinking water and power on the batteries during daytime thanks to the installation of 4 solar cell panels on top of bimini.

15 March 2016
The signal flag meaning bad maneuvrability

The captain used old navigation skills remembering the old saying variation west Compass best! The variation out there was 18 degrees west – meaning that we had to hand steer 288 degrees on the compass to get 270 degrees track. The compass was all we had for usage during the night. At 1200 every day we put on the GPS and plotted down our position on a map. As you can see – pretty well! We also have a spare GPS on batteries – so we would get an exact position even if the main batteries went down also during day. During night the only light that was on was the compass light. No problem with any navigational lights and radar as we only observed 2 commercial ships during the whole crossing. And they both kept a 3 nm distance to us!
When you are all alone during your 2 hour shifts at night in the middle of nowhere – there is a lot of thoughts coming – more about this later.
The good thing with no alcohol and big dinners the captain has lost 9 kg’s since we departed Las Palmas!!! A couple of them have come back during lazy days in St Lucia!!

Finally reaching the Caribbean

02 March 2016
Goodbye Mindelo

We started out from Mindelo with winds from north east,25- 35Kt, and made good speed towards Barbados, our goal. The first week we had about 5 meter swell, which made life under deck terribly uncomfortable; you had to grab to anything just to prevent you from being thrown into the opposite side and get smashed. The sea calmed down eventually, and made life a little more comfortable. It was warmer, sunnier and we were able to do simple cooking.

02 March 2016
Half way celebration despite everything...

But just a little more comfortable…… The third day the generator stopped working. This meant we had just enough power for basic household appliances during daytime, thanks to the solar panels. No hot water, limited drinking water, no navigation, no autopilot! The following night we had little wind and turned on the engine, and after a while it too stopped!

02 March 2016
One of the few really useful preparations

So much for technology!! We had spent thousands and thousands of Euros and months of time in Las Palmas and Lanzarote to equip Temerity to the teeth for the crossing. And we ended up using only the Genoa and the Compass!!

02 March 2016
Being towed into Rodney Bay Maria in St Lucia

Bosse, Bjørn and Berit had a tough time hand steering in shifts for thirteen days. During this time we decided to head for St Lucia instead of Barbados, because we know Rodney Bay Marina in Lucia, they have all facilities, and not at least we have friends there. Finally after 16 days at sea we were towed into Rodney Bay Marina!

In Mindelo

08 February 2016
Old fishing boats

We have now been in Mindelo for 10 days. It has been a lot of work to sort out everything that happened during the sail from Gran Canaria, and some other things as well…

08 February 2016
Bosse in the mast with help from nieghbour Asbjørn

Anyway everything is now fixed both under deck and over. It has been very nice for Bjørn not to have to work alone with all the projects. Bosse is really hardworking and good at fixing everything on board. With so many hands we managed to do a lot in a short time, and we are now ready to sail on.

08 February 2016
Fish Market

08 February 2016
On the way to the vegetable market

The local markets have been excellent for provisions.

08 February 2016
Carnival Girl

However, we have not been working absolutely all the time. We have been enjoying some of the carnival atmosphere in the friendly, nice little city of Mondelo (approximately 70.000 people). It is not the biggest city in the Cabo Verdes, but it is considered the Cultural Capital.

08 February 2016
More Carnival Girls

Goodbye Canary Islands!

08 February 2016
Farewell Dinner at Que Tal?

We have spent four years here among the islands, where we have made some very good friends and learned to really enjoy the landscape, the culture, all the good food, especially the wonderful canary cheeses, and of course the excellent local wines. It is sad to leave……….
We said goodbye to Las Palmas on January 22nd ; our second home for a long time, and sailed to Puerto de Mogan. There we enjoyed our last Canary dinner at splendid Que Tal?.

A new adventure ahead

08 February 2016
Farewell, Mogan!

After a hectic day with preparations we were ready to start the journey towards the Cabo Verdes at 16.00 Friday the 23rd of January.
We had a wonderful start with the wind about 40 degrees from behind, and with full main and genoa we did 5 – 7 knots. The swell was a moderate 1-2 meters, and life on board was quite comfortable. The sun went down in the sea, we enjoyed a good warm meal, and the night shifts started. The first night our first problem occurred. The water tank emptied itself into the bilge, and we had no water for cleaning and shower. Luckily the Captain had installed a genius system with a 42liter drinking water tank that was the first to be filled when we start the water maker. So the problem was reduced to not being able to shower.

Second and Third Day

08 February 2016
Bosse, Thorbjørn and Nina enjoying a ride on the waves

The wind turned to come more and more from behind, so the main went down and we sailed only with the genoa. The wind direction was steady and the speed varied from 15 to 28 knots. We kept steady course at a speed between 5 and 8 knots. The swell was increasing and varying from side to behind, and at times it became really bumpy and too difficult to cook; we consumed a lot of fresh baked baguettes with ham and cheese…
During the third night a new serious problem occurred. The batteries went flat. The reasons were insufficient monitoring, old batteries, and a hard working autopilot tuned to navigate in narrow waters. We just had to hand steer after the compass and wait for the sun to get up and start charging the batteries. The problem was solved and we learned a lesson. We also experienced that two electric toilets might be comfortable, but not in all conditions…….

Fourth and Fifth Day

08 February 2016
Land in sight!!

The wind kept steady both in speed and direction, and so did we. But there was not an end to our problems. On the fourth night the Furlex for the genoa loosened from the pulpit and was flying freely in front of us! With joined forces we managed to get the Furlex on board and save the sail. The rest of the way we had to engine, and with wind, waves and current with us we sailed at 8,5 knots.
After five days and nights, we could finally see the contours of Sao Vicente, resting in the haze surrounding the Cap Verdes. At 18.00 we were berthed, and the aquavit bottle was opened!

Back on board Temerity

28 June 2015
This is what two months of salty wind does

After two months in Portugal and Denmark it was a good feeling to be on board Temerity again. We think she misses us when we leave her and also is happy to have us back. Everything on board works well, but after two months with sun, salty wind and sand dust from Sahara, there is some maintenance work to be done. The first three days means cleaning, cleaning and polishing…..

Hip, hip hurray!

25 June 2015
17th of May is Norway's national day, which we love to celebrate, big style! This was our first 17th in Tavira, and we were happy to be invited to a celebration in a beautiful resort in posh Almansil a little further west on the coast. The menu was of course Norwegian with reindeer as a main, deliciously prepared by the Portuguese chef and served with Portuguese wine. A worthy celebration!

Back in sunny Algarve

25 June 2015
Trude and Bjørn in Ayamonte across the Spanish border

After spending almost two wonderful weeks with the children in Denmark, we returned to Tavira with sunshine and 30+. Being in Tavira is like vacation for us. Everything in the apartment is easy, and there is no maintenance to be done. Nice lazy days....
This time we also got a visitor from Norway! Trude whom Bjørn has known since childhood, stayed with us for an enjoyable week. As often happens when friends haven´t met for a while, we stayed up late, drinking and talking into the mornings. During daytime it was nice to show Trude some of the beautiful Algarve and share its delicious food and wine!
The week passed very quiqly and now we hope to have guests soon again!
Vessel Name: S/Y Temerity
Vessel Make/Model: Hudson Force 52 feet. Built 1981 in Taiwan.
Hailing Port: Oslo
Crew: Berit and Bjørn Ramfjord
Extra:
In Brief The Hudson Force 50 is a full keeled pilothouse cutter ketch, from the drawing board of William Garden, a US and Canadian trained naval architect. Introduced in 1973, they were built in Taiwan at the rate of twelve to fifteen per year until 1984 when the boatyard burned down. They [...]
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S/Y Temerity's Photos -