Two weeks have flown by since our arrival in New Zealand. In the end it proved an uneventful 870 mile crossing, five days beating into the wind, two days motoring, and then finally a glorious northerly wind, which gave our final twenty four hours lots of speed, and the pleasure of seeing land at last, as well as getting in to harbour just before the next low arrived, bringing 40 knots of wind.

As we closed land, we were greeted by a succession of albatross, the Royal and the Wandering albatross, which are the largest of all sea birds, and hugely impressive. These birds stay at sea for as much as three years at a time, and we read with horror that long line fishing, far from being the panacea of ecological fishing, kills just as many dolphins and albatross as trawling did.

Emily hauled in an albacore tuna, a variety we hadn't caught before, but instead of eating it fresh, we froze it. We had other food priorities! We knew that when we arrived in Opua, quarantine requirements would mean that all our fresh and frozen meat, and fresh fruit and veg would be confiscated, so as we sailed south we did our utmost to eat everything that we knew would otherwise be thrown out, quite a tall order! I had cooked lots of the meat which had been lurking in the freezer since Panama, so all we had to do was get on with eating. South we sailed, eating as we went, in conditions that were luckily conducive to keeping it down!

By the time we arrived in the Bay of Islands, I for one was heartily sick of the thought of a single morsel more food, particularly meat, but due to the filthy weather which greeted us in Opua, the customs and quarantine people didn't arrive until after lunch, so yet more food was consumed before their arrival!

When the charming quarantine officer asked for any of our fresh food I was thrilled to give him the little that remained. There were a few surprise items that were taken too, such as mayonnaise that we had bought in Fiji, but had been made in the middle east. Thankfully various wooden carvings and baskets were allowed through, and we regretted not stocking up with more very cheap duty free booze while we were in Vanuatu.

Formalities over, we moved onto a marina berth, and raced for the showers! We went off for a drink at Opua Yacht Club, where friendly locals instantly bombarded us with kindness. Before we knew it, we had been lent a car for the next day. We also met the owner and skipper of a square rigger that we had last seen in Aitutaki, Cook Islands. He had been part of the survivor film that was being made there.

So, well set up for the next day, we got our first drive around the area, which turns out to be full of the early history of New Zealand. We went to see the oldest surviving house in Australasia, dated 1820, the Mission house in Kerikeri, lived in for generations by the Kemp family, originally from Norfolk, and began to get our heads around the Musket Wars, and the role of the Maoris.

The countryside is every bit as beautiful as we had been led to believe, mile upon mile of sheep and cattle grazing on endless green hills. Beautiful white Arum lilies flower in damp corners of fields. The gardens everywhere are a joy, filled with English flowers, roses, larkspur, geraniums, daisies, everything flowering in great abundance, and their seasons go on, so that everything flowers continuously from now until the autumn, March.

We have bought an old car, a Nissan Bluebird, for a song, from Kevin and Jan, who lent us their truck on day one. They have continued to be so kind to us, and we are currently using their mooring, it certainly means that we sleep better. Giles and Emily were up one night when our anchor dragged, and we fouled a neighbouring yacht's bowsprit.

Three days cruising with Emily in the Bay of Islands, which is a fabulous cruising ground, lots of sunshine, but still a cold wind, and some quite strenuous walking. Em was brave enough to swim, and early one morning when I woke her to see a pod of dolphins, she jumped in and swam with them! We took Kevin and a couple of his friends fishing for a day, eager to learn how it's done, and managed to catch lots of snapper, which we ate with them later that evening, beautifully smoked. We were amazed how they throw back really quite large fish, which at home we'd be happy to eat. There is also a limit to catch no more than nine fish each, which seems sensible, given the number of boats out fishing here.

We had decided to do a mini tour of North Island, so that Em could see as much as possible before returning home, but our luck with the weather didn't last, and it was not good enough to do the walk around Taupo that we had hoped, added to which I had a streaming cold. So we settled for a trip to Rotorua, where hot geysers steam from every pore of the landscape, the public gardens have used the steam amongst their planting schemes, the smell of sulphur is everywhere, but surprisingly o.k.! There are also good wet weather options, the museum is excellent, Te Puia, the Maori village was fascinating, with acres of bubbling mud and geysers, that the Maori had once used to cook on. We also saw a Maori dance performed, which had much in common with the Polynesian dances we have become familiar with. Emily left us on a morning mini-bus to the airport, but with the prospect of coming home in a couple of weeks time for once I did not have to fight back the tears!

We meanwhile went on to Tauranga, where we are thinking of moving Brother Wind in the New Year to get various jobs done. We looked at the marina, met some of the trades, and felt that we would find everything we needed there. It will make a nice sail down if that is what we decide. We stayed with Stewart and Jane Wright who have been incredibly helpful to us, offering lots of advice.

Now we're back 'home', making a start on some of the jobs that need our attention. Our power having been fairly trouble free for some time is giving problems again. Meanwhile our flights are booked, and we arrive on 1st December for a 6 week spell. Very exciting! We will be on Giles' mobile, 07798 927618.