Farewell New Zealand
17 April 2007 | Tasman Sea
Jo
Time has raced by, and our time in NZ has rapidly drawn to a close. It hasn't panned out at all as anticipated, as our projected 2-3 weeks work on the boat turned into 6 weeks of hard grind, with both of us working very hard, as well as the nightmare of waiting for others to do their bit. All of which made for some pretty frustrating times, particularly as our deadline for leaving for South Island came and went, as did the next one!
The net result is that we have finally got a very smart arch, complete with wind generator, solar panels, and various aerials, which all had to be re routed, and pulled through tortuous bends of steel. The entire push-pit came off too, and as is the way of these things one thing lead to another. We had to move our calorifier for making hot water, to access the back of our transom, and then discovered that it was looking pitted, and time for a new one, not quite so simple when you have a 110v. boat in a world of 240v. And then there were the scupper pipes which turned out to be in a dire state, and then the genoa furling winch which had to be moved, because the arch got in the way. Not to mention fitting a new l.e.d. tricolour light at the top of the mast, redesigning the bimini and so the list went on and on... .!
But thank goodness for Luke' wedding, which drove us into a frenzy of ' must go now', and finally we managed to take Brother Wind down to Auckland, where we left her, and flew onwards to South Island.
We flew into Queenstown, renowned as the adrenalin city of the world! but also in the heart of a beautiful area of mountains and lakes of breathtaking loveliness. Internal flights in NZ are so easy it's a joy, no hassle with anything, and you arrive unstressed and ready for the next thing. So we immediately tested our muscles with a climb up Queentown Hill, and then spruced ourselves up and went out to meet up with Ros and Larry Condon, our great friends and neighbours from Wood Norton, and Louise and Brandon, Larry's daughter and son-in-law. What a treat to see them, and catch up on so much!!
Brandon was going to get everyone to go jet-boating next day, but I decided that this might be the moment for me to try some para-gliding. I wasn't entirely convinced, and as Giles and I wanted to do a high walk on the Remarkables, I wasn't sure if there'd be time enough afterwards. However, climbing mountains always inspires the bird in me, so a phone call from the top of the mountain, and I was committed!
I was to jump off Coronet Peak, the highest jump in NZ with Rob, a Dutch guy in charge! Giles came as back up, but wasn't to be persuaded to have a go, and after one false start, (it's amazing what a backward pull there is from the foil), Rob and I were airborne! The views were magical over the wide valley that led down to Queenstown, surrounded by mountains on all sides. It would be hard to have chosen anywhere as lovely, with such perfect weather. It was a wonderful feeling turning and wheeling, rising on the thermals, and eventually 15 minutes later dropping inelegantly into a predetermined field, me landing on my very well padded bottom, as requested, as I was nervous of my troublesome hips and knee.
Next day was as beautiful as ever, but as the forecast was not so good for the rest of the week, we decided to drive north 50 kms to Wanaka, on a spectacular mountain road, then along the valley for 50 kms to go and walk the Rob Roy track. This is a lovely walk that rises up from a wide fertile river valley of grazing cattle and sheep, through beech woods, and up until you rise above the tree line, where you get fabulous views of the Rob Roy glacier.
We felt well exercised by the time we'd finished, and then headed back for our luxury night at Millbrooke, Arrowtown. Larry had very generously suggested that we should stay there, as he and Ros were returning to Auckland that day, and Brandon and Louise were going to meet friends so wouldn't notice us! It certainly made the backpacker places we'd been staying in look pretty basic, this was life and luxury unheard of by the Winter duo, and appreciated all the more for that. The enormous bath tub was a particular luxury, and as for the fantastic self service breakfast with every conceivable thing on offer - I can vouch to the fact that Giles really did try it all!
After a lazy start, and farewells to Loulou and Brandon, we drove north again, deciding en route that we would change our plans and head for the west coast and the famous glaciers there. The road from Waneka along Lake Hawea, must be one of the most stunning anywhere, helped by seeing it all in perfect weather. As we went over the pass and into the influence of the west coast, we met cloud and rain. Our first sight of the Tasman Sea looked grey and uninviting - well we'll think about that one later!
We had hoped to climb glaciers, but torrential rain in the night made it pretty unappealing, so we walked to the foot of both the Frans Josef glacier and the Fox Glacier, and wondered if the mints were named after it, it was named by Prime Minister Fox after himself in 1872!
After the glaciers it was a night in Arthur's Pass, with stunning mountain views, and a wonderful walk up the Bealy Spur the next day, where you see a wonderful vista of mountains all around. Many of these are skiing area, and some had snow. Then on to Christchurch, arriving in time to find somewhere to stay, do some sightseeing, and to collect Flora from the airport, which was terrific.
Next day we parted company again, we flew back to Auckland, and Flora on to explore South Island.
Back in Auckland, we quickly got in touch with Larry and Ros, and were able to sail Larry and three young, Richard, Jamie and Renal over to Waiheke island, some feeling rather the worse for wear it should be said, as Luke's stag night had been the night before!
It was a lovely three hour sail, and we opted for anchoring in Onaroa Bay, where we thought we would get maximum protection from the south westerly, as well as it being very convenient for the wedding, particularly as it was the chosen venue for a large meal ashore that evening.
Next day, we had been invited to stay ashore, which made life much easier, changing into our only smart clothes and going ashore by dinghy to land on a sandy beach, would have been fraught, let alone getting back there later!!
Luke and Clare's wedding was a fairytale event, set in the wonderful Mudbrick Vineyard, where the terrace is bathed in westerly evening light, and views extend right over to the centre of Auckland, some ten miles away. Meanwhile the lavender and white roses flowered around us, and the weather which only a week before had set rainfall records, was just perfection. Clare looked stunningly gorgeous, and Luke like the happiest man ever! So all in all it was a wonderful enchanted and happy occasion.
We managed to find time while we were on Waiheke to meet up with Tim and Ginny LeCouteur, fellow RCC members, who sailed to NZ 30 years ago and stayed! They have subsequently done another circumnavigation! Other people's stories are always fascinating.
Time to go, and Brandon still hadn't earned his mention, as he had failed the challenge to swim out to the boat, but this was redeemed when Giles sailed Larry, Richard and Jamie over to the mainland for a bar-b-q at Clare's parents, and Brandon did finally swim out to bid us farewell!
After all the fun and partying, we set sail for Opua, stopping in Army Bay, and a night in the Hen and Chicken Islands, where we had a beautiful bay to ourselves for Easter! The clear water persuaded even Giles to go for a dip on Easter morning!
So back to Opua, which does feel like home by now, and a final assault on finishing off various bits and pieces. A bottom cleaning on the Sea-Lift, a very clever arrangement that turns into a dry dock by pumping air into the float, and almost good to go by the time Flora caught up with us last Thursday.
Of course one never is quite ready, and we were being teased by various people about still buying bits and pieces to fit at the 11th hour. But escaping from NZ is a mixture of pressure to have the boat ready, and the right weather window. Wisdom dictates that you wait for the back of a low, Thursday saw 40 knots plus, so we grabbed the moment, and left on Sunday 15th, feeling very sad at all our farewells, and leaving this lovely country behind us.
Now here we are two days later, motoring in a calm Tasman Sea, hoping that there are no hidden gales awaiting us, and wondering if we can fit in a visit to Lord Howe Island 500 miles away, and still get Flora the 400 miles on to Sydney on time.