We hadn't stopped at Peniche before. The first time we got near it we were beating at night in fog so thick we couldn't see the front of the boat but we could hear the engines of many fishing boats and one getting very close. He couldn't see us and nearly ran down our little 27 foot Albin Vega. It was very disconcerting and put us off Peniche. Second time passing we had such good wind sailing steadily at 6.5+ knots we sailed on through the strait between Ilha da Berlenga and Peniche and made straight for Cascais.

So it was time to acquaint ourselves with this fishing harbour and visit Ilha da Berlenga en route if we could, the wind or actually lack of it seemed right for it. However, as we got nearer the wind increased and the advice is only to go in really settled conditions because anchoring is tricky. We debated whether to stop there for lunch or even overnight but in the end we decided to go to Peniche and let the professionals take us there.

The coastline changes going south here from the flat miles of beach to striated cliffs which seem to culminate in the dramatic headland of Cabo Carvoeiro which sticks out like a nose with Peniche sitting on top.

Peniche is a busy fishing port with the sardine boats racing each other to exit the harbour and consequently putting up a big wash despite the 3 knot limit. Happily the harbour master found us a berth on the inside of the visitors' pontoon giving us an easier time of it than some of the other yachts which were tossed about rather dangerously from time to time. Despite its rough and ready look Peniche grew on us in the short time we were there.

The highlight of our stay was taking a fast catamaran across to the Berlenga Islands. The islands are a nature reserve and although visited by hundreds of people were well managed with some really attractive scenery, fortunately we took the first trip of the day so there were few people when we arrived. A glass bottom boat trip was part of the day and our skipper carefully threaded his way through the caves and tunnels that make up the south coast of the island.

An impressive castle adds to the dramatic scenery with some elegant arched access paths. The castle was apparently built by monks fed up with being raided by pirates. We didn't learn whether this was successful but the fact that it still stands today suggests that it was. Today you can stay in the castle in what is rather basic hostel style accomodation, there is a cafe/restaurant and lots of interesting views from the ramparts. 350 rough steps take you up to the lighthouse and on across the island to a spartan camp site on a rather dusty terrace near the harbour which leads down to a really great swimming beach amongst the rocky outcrops.

From Peniche we had a gentle day sail down to Cascais. A pleasant Force 3 from the north meant we sailed nearly the whole way at a leisurely pace and without it being too cold. We still had our funny cockpit "sentry box" up for part of the way to keep out the cold draughts. A problem with going south in a northerly wind is that the sails when set wing and wing make a complete screen from the warmth of the sun whilst the cool wind comes right through the boat from astern but the sailing is great.