Madeira
06 October 2019
Lorraine and Chris Marchant
The Levada da Serra do Faial at Ribeiro Frio
Motoring out of our excellent anchorage at Porto Santo we hoisted the mainsail but had to continue with the engine for another 45 minutes, then the wind came at 12 knots giving us a decent sailng speed of 5 knots and 3-4 knots later. We waved goodbye to Porto Santo as we passed Ilheu Baixo in its south west corner.
After 5 hours of sailing we arrived at Baia D'Abra our intended anchorage. This is the first bay at the eastern end of Madeira in the lee of the low volcanic cliffs of the narrow penninsula of Ponte de Sao Lourenco and Ilheu da Cevada.
We were in the company of three other yachts and all had a disturbed night due to the swell rolling straight in. In current conditions this wasn't going to get any better so next morning we made our way to Quinta do Lorde marina a couple of miles away. It was very windy getting in as the marina is below a sheer cliff and the wind swoops straight over the top and out into the bay. We were met at the entrance and guided to a berth then helped to moor up by the excellent marina staff, the wind drops away but the remnants of swell from outside creep in so the boat has continuous but gentle movement.
As part of a hotel complex this marina is very well appointed and not expensive. It's quiet, spacious and has a small shop with wonderful fresh bread everyday made in the hotel kitchens. A real asset is the public bus service stopping outside the hotel at the roadside. We took the bus into Funchal which was an interesting journey through the countryside and towns en route and rising from coast to peaks with some of the spectacular views that are everywhere to be seen in Madeira. We re-aquainted ourselves with Funchal which is still charming but very busy and the traffic has greatly increased since we were here last. We toured on foot enjoying the market, the gardens of Santa Catarina Park and a very good museum tracing the history of Madeira from settlement to present day. Then to the water-front and walking the length of the promenade we ended at the marina. It was very full with boats rafted up three deep in some places and really swelly so that cross-trees at mast heads swung unsettlingly near each other. It is always fun to be at the centre of things in a town centre marina but we didn't fancy being sandwiched in and security here hasn't improved, it is still a totally open marina. All things considered, combined with our main aim of doing some walking in the higher areas, we decided to stay in the very pleasant Quinta do Lorde marina and hire a car for a couple of days to get further afield. This worked very well indeed.
The car was delivered to us at the marina. We collected newly baked bread from the little shop and packed up some salad, luscious local tomatoes and cheese from the Azores for our picnic as well as our waterproofs as it can get damp and chilly high up in Madeira. Both the two walks we chose were along levadas, the channels that bring water from the wetter north of the island to the drier southern parts. The advantage of these paths is they are nearly flat as they contour around the mountains. However, this often means that they are built on cliff sides with sheer drops on one side and slimy vegetation covered walls on the other. We chose one easy and one moderate path, the first easy one was near Quiemadas and had the advantage of being less popular so a very tranquil experience amongst wonderful trees and flowers. The levadas now seem not quite so exciting, or perhaps the word is risky, as much has been spent on fencing off the steep edges and sheer drops that caused flows of adrenalin in the past. Perhaps an EU safety requirement but probably to encourage more visitors which it seems to have done.
The second day we went to Ribeiro Frio which was rather more busy but through incompetence we failed to find the start of the path until late in the day so had that one mostly to ourselves as well, it was more challenging though not difficult. The bonus was that after we got bored with walking in the wrong direction for the path we drove up the hill to Pico de Juncal at 1800 metres the 3rd highest peak, it is impessively high and desolate, above the cloud line when we were there, with stunning views in all directions.
Madeira is certainly impressive and an interesting place to drive. It is easy to get around as there are long tunnels through the mountains. Sadly you then miss the scenery which is just sublime. Hence, we took the scenic route home on each occasion admittedly with heart in mouth moments as the roads clung to the cliffs as the levadas do. The shame is that the fertile terraces which were such a part of the Madeira scene are now largely abandonned except where they have vines growing on them. The work involved in farming the steep slopes is clearly impossible to mechanise and few people are willing to work them any more . Vast numbers of indigenous trees are being planted instead so Madeira will still be a vision of green hillsides below towering peaks and canyons.