On our way to La Paz
08 November 2010
We left the Cabo San Lucas marina mid morning and began motor sailing to our next stop, the Puerto Los Cabos marina about 15-25 miles away (distance depends on which cruising guide you read) along the bottom of Baja. We had read in our cruising guide books that the small town next to the marina, San Jose del Cabo, was well worth exploring. It was described as "old Mexico". After Cabo, that sounded great to us. I was completely astounded by all the resorts along the coastline. The entire distance was packed with resorts and condos, crammed right next to each other, one after another after another. Some of the architecture was truly amazing (and some, not so amazing). I don't know what you would call the styles but they seemed to fit right into the land, almost like they really belonged there.
It is nice to be back out on the water again. Cabo was an interesting place but the noise and commotion and people out all hours of the night kind of got to us. The loud lousy music all night long was irritating and then there were jackhammers going at a construction site across from our boat all day long. Enough noise. Also the frenetic, "Have I got a deal for you" vendors everywhere you went got old really quick. Even the restaurants had hawkers out on the streets trying to get you to go to their establishment.
Greg's brother, Rocky seems to be handling the heat okay. It was in the mid 30's when he left Juneau and it has to be in the upper 80's here in the daytime and low 70's at night. I still have not adjusted to the heat here. It is too damn hot!
We arrived at the Puerto Los Cabos marina in the early afternoon. It is full of Baja Ha-Ha boats headed to La Paz. We elect to moor at the special Ha-Ha rate dock, no wi-- fi included. It is also on the opposite side of the marina from the office, showers, bathrooms and little bar/restaurant. They have to send a golf cart over to pick up new arrivals to bring them to the office to sign in. The ride must be a half mile or more but it is interesting to look at all the landscaping they have put in. Lots of statutes and sculptures dispersed throughout the landscaping of cactus, palm trees, bougainvillea and lots of other plants I don't recognize. It's a shame they didn't invest in power hookups, showers and bathrooms on this side of the marina instead of landscaping. But then the rate would be $92 per night instead of $30. This marina is part of a "top of the line" resort which is way behind schedule in construction. The parts that are finished are very, very nice but there is much left to build. What a mixture of boats here. There are all the Ha-Ha sailboats, lots of fishing boats from small to extra large, and right across from our dock there are three mega yachts tied up. We are talking $10+million, huge, fancy things. Wonder where they come from and what the people are like.......I doubt they will ever come over and talk "boat talk" on the docks with all the other guys.
I' m disappointed to learn that the quaint old town of San Jose is 1 ½ miles away from the marina so we will have to take a taxis instead of walking as I don't think I could handle the heat for that long of a walk. Greg & Rocky couldn't handle it either. I'm embarrassed when I am waiting to register at the office. Another sail boater is registering before me and he has brought all his boat documents which the clerk is going through. I didn't bring anything but my credit card and a few pesos. The marina manager comes into the room and I mention I didn't bring any papers from the boat. I told him in Cabo all they wanted to see was my money. He laughed and said if I knew the boat's documentation number that was all they needed. Luckily I have it memorized now. (Can't remember where I put anything, but I remember the boat's silly documentation number.) We don't need a dock gate key on our dock, but we will have to ride the dinghy across the marina to use the showers and the docks require a key card on that side. They want a $50 deposit for the key card which I don't have with me so I will have to come back later. I don't mind because the office is air conditioned and I think I could sit there all day long.
A pleasant surprise was that our cell phone works here. I called Jody and my mom to let them know where we were. Greg and Rocky discover a small grocery store just up from our dock and both arrive back at the boat with the largest Gatorades I have ever seen. They both promptly drink their whole drinks.
The next day we call the marina office on the vhf radio to request a taxi and off we go to town. The part of town by the beach is all expensive resort stuff so we head for the back side of town where the tourist area is. There is a large, lovely square with a stage for music and dancing, a beautiful church with bell towers and lots and lots of shops and restaurants. I had hoped they would ring the bells while we were in town but no such luck. We ate breakfast outside on a patio (hot cakes with pineapple & cinnamon for me. Yum. ) and checked out lots of shops (just what Greg loves to do). After a couple hours we were ready to go back to the boat for naps or reading or both.
Late in the afternoon I walked along the road that went back out along the entrance to the marina. I found a very steep beach with people fishing with nets and poles. I decided I had to at least get my feet wet in the ocean and discovered the water is warm. Very nice on the feet.
We are leaving for Los Frailes (The Friars) early tomorrow morning as light winds are predicted and we will probably have to motor most of the way. Los Frailes is 38 miles away at the very eastern tip of Baja.