s/v Karma

Karma in Motion

Who: Clint, Reina & Duke
Port: West Palm Beach, FL

Where are we?

Your destiny, is a result of your actions. Live by a code of conduct that will secure supreme hapiness and worldy joys; which are usually the little things.
22 February 2018
13 June 2016 | Puerto Natlaes
12 November 2015 | Southern Patagonia, Chile 50 39.60S:74 33.12W
02 November 2015 | Golfo de Penas, Patagonia, Chile
17 October 2015 | Laguna San Rafael, Patagonia, Chile
13 October 2015 | Laguna San Rafael, Patagonia, Chile
01 October 2015 | Caleta Poza de Oro, Patagonia, Chile
20 September 2015 | Los Altos, Paraguay
06 September 2015 | Chiloe
04 September 2015 | Puerto Montt, Chile
05 January 2015 | Isla Isabela

Antarctica - December 26, 2017 to January 26, 2018

15 March 2018
Reina
Our Antarctica trip really came about as a fluke. Down here, in Puerto Williams, we are surround by charter boats that regularly do the Antarctica trip three and four times a season. There is also a small percentage of cruising boats that pass this way with the sole intention of sailing to Antarctica. At one point we considered taking Karma but when the opportunity arose to join another boat we felt that was a more conservative option.

We met the captain of the boat we went on when we first got to Puerto Williams. We had thought we had all become quite good friends. The captain was in Puerto Williams without his family for his final year of charter and he spent many evenings aboard Karma; in fact, he spent the previous Christmas (2016) with us in Ushuaia on Karma. When he mentioned that he and his family would be going to Antarctica and asked if we would be interested in joining him as friends, not as a charter, Clint and I were beside ourselves at the opportunity. He told us that the plan was to take 6 to 8 weeks and we would go "slowly" around Antarctica. He was excited that we were interested because unlike most people we could be part of a trip that needed flexible dates and we could be away for up to two months. In addition to us, there would be one other person joining us; his best friend from Germany who was also an experienced sailor and was retired so he was able to take a lot of time.

We knew that the captain had a lot of experience around Cape Horn and the Beagle. He had also given us the impression that prior to getting married he had been to Antarctica many times as captain on another charter boat and that he had a lot of knowledge of Antarctica. Based on what we knew and on what we had observed, we were confident in his ability as a captain and in his boat. We also thought it would be a fun time since we had all gotten to know each other and seemed to enjoy each other's company. Unfortunately we were wrong.

Without going into all of the details, Antarctica turned out to be surprising in many ways. The place was more spectacular and special than we could have imagined. The experience aboard the boat turned into the Twilight Zone, also something we could not have imagined. The whole trip was quite traumatic for both of us. We have learned, the hard way, that you really do not know people until you put them in a small environment, at sea for a five day 600 mile passage on one of the most difficult bodies of water on the planet. We quickly found ourselves in a Dr. Jekyll Mr. Hyde scenario. We knew he (the captain) was a little obsessive compulsive and even joked with him about it. On a boat, at sea, it was our experience that an overly obsessive compulsive person turns into a supreme control freak in an environment that is very hard to have complete control over. His condition was not so funny anymore. We could do nothing correctly (in his mind) and were treated very disrespectfully as a result.

It did not help when an improperly stored container of gasoline (put there by the captain) flooded the boat with gas fumes and made everyone sick. Add to that condition the stress associated with a major rigging failure while heading south to Antarctica and you have a very bad combination.

This is a shot from our first anchorage, trying to improve our repair of the head stay failure. The yellow tow straps were part of our temporary repair at sea.


Clint and our other very experienced crew member were critical in making sure the rigging failure did not cause any additional problems and was safe for the rest of the passage south. The captain, in my opinion, did not deal with the problem very well and was not proactive in coming up with a solution. The important thing is that we got the problem under control; however, we quickly lost trust in our captain which is a very scary thing.

We hoped that once we arrived in the protected waters of Antarctica had a safe anchorage and some good rest things would get better. Unfortunately this was not the case. Even after arriving in Antarctica the captain showed an increased level of stress. Shortly after arriving his new focus was to leave. Instead of a 6 to 8 week meander through Antarctica we got the "drive by" tour.

Of course we knew before leaving Puerto Williams we would not be gone 6 to 8 weeks because our other crew member had booked a return ticket, he had only planned on a 4 week stay all together. After learning this, a lot of things began to fall in place and it became very apparent that we had been lied to and manipulated. We were still happy to be going for a month but in the end that did not even end up being the case. We covered a lot of ground in just a few days and then ended up parking the boat in one spot. Ten days crossing The Drake (5 each way), 5 days touring Antarctica, 14 days sitting in one spot. Not quite the six to eight week cruising experience we had anticipated or the month we were anticipating. Needless to say, we came back very disappointed. However, after a week of mentally recovering; we have chosen to move forward, learn from the experience, and be completely appreciative of what time we did have. Not many people ever have the chance to go to Antarctica and we are grateful for the time we did get shitty or not.

Enough of that! I do not wish to dwell on the negative but rather the positive. Antarctica is freaking amazing and our pictures do not even come close to doing it justice. We feel that we got to see many very unique things in one of the most remote places on the planet. Antarctica did indeed turn out to be surprising in many ways. The place was more spectacular and special than we could have imagined.

I hope you enjoy the pictures!

First let me start with a bit of perspective. Antarctica is way the hell away from where we started. The red line on this google earth image is the approximate route we have taken since leaving Florida. Pretty impressive if we say so ourselves.



The cruising area of Antarctica is a relatively small area of the Antarctic Peninsula.



The picture below is our actual route to and from Antarctica. The more western line is our return.



This closer look shows the area we cruised.



In the map below I marked each of our stops. The first stop (#1), Deception Island, was not really a stop. We arrived there New Year's Eve and just before entering the anchorage, after 5 days of crossing The Drake, the captain decided he did not like the place (big red flag) and we pressed on. Our actual first stop was #2, Enterprise Island. We arrived there approximately 24 hours later on the first day of the year 2018.



#2 Enterprise Island, 64° 33'S : 062° 00'W



At Enterprise there is an old whaling vessel that is grounded. It provides an excellent mooring for the boats cruising Antarctica. It was the perfect spot to tie off securely to get some much needed rest. It is also a very popular spot. In the three days we were there, we were joined by six other boats. At one point four of us were rafted off together.



It's funny, in all the time we have cruised the fjords of Chile we found the anchorages of Antarctica to be more crowded!

The one upside to having other boats around is it gave us the chance to get off of our boat and to actually have a bit of fun. A Polish charter boat that was rafted to us had a birthday party and everyone was invited. The crew and captain from our boat only stayed about 10 minutes but Clint and I partied on. What do you get when you put a boat full of Czechs together with a boat full of Poles? A lot of vodka (and Igor).

One of the boats tied alongside us was a sister-ship to our boat. It was a private charter boat that had on board Czech climbers; one of which is supposedly the most famous climber in all of Europe. Funny side note, they climbed shear walls of ice but were afraid to ride around in the dinghy....



About 100 feet off of the bow of the boat was a glacial wall that enclosed the front of the anchorage. At low tide there was a small rocky shore. On our first there we woke to the climbers testing their skills. It provided good entertainment. Thirty-six hours later that very ice wall provided even more entertainment when it came tumbling down.....

The ice wall the climber in the picture above was suspended from is now in a million pieces in the picture below!



Just after sitting down to dinner we heard a loud explosion. Actually a sound we were all quite familiar with but could not place right away...a calving glacier; but, before we could even process the noise, the explosion was followed by the windows of our pilot house being bombarded with ice. It was really quite surreal. Within the blink of an eye it dawned on all of us that the glacier in front of us had just come tumbling down. It was low tide and the ice hit the rocky beach exploding and ricocheting right at the bow of our boat. As we were ducking for cover in case a window broke, we also braced ourselves for the tidal wave. Fortunately, because of the low tide the impact of the ice on the water was minimal. We were really quite fortunate, no one was hurt and the boat was not damaged. Soon after all of the excitement we tidied up from dinner and got the heck out of dodge.

One of the nice things about having light 24 hours a day is that you can move around at any time. So, by 9 pm that night we were underway for spot #3, Paradise Bay.

#3 Paradise Bay, 64° 49'S: 62° 51'W





Paradise Bay, in the Gerlache Strait, is home to the Chilean Gabriel González Videla Base. This is just one of several Chilean bases. Opened in 1951, the base is operated in the summer time only jointly by the Chilean Armada (Navy) and Air Force. It is a research facility and also home to the Chilean Air Force's primary Heritage Museum in Antarctica, aka a gift shop.



Being typical Chilean, we were given a very nice welcome. It also did not hurt that our captain is ex-armada and knew one of the guys at the station. They even let us use their shower. Our first shower of 2018 was in Antarctica...how cool is that?







The base is on a very tiny island with a ton of penguins. Technically the proximity you are allowed to the penguins is limited to 5 meters but here they were a bit relaxed so we were able to get up close and personal to these very stinky but cute creatures.












Do you see the egg?





Know the song, "Smoke on the Water"?


This phenomena is created when frigid air moves over the relatively "warmer" water.



While at Paradise Bay, we were treated to some more alpine entertainment. The Czech climbers who we met earlier at Enterprise and had left before us were at Paradise Bay when we arrived in the wee hours of the morning.

In the bay we had the Chile base on our port side and a beautiful mountain vista on our starboard.



Apparently the climbers only like to climb up....



And they prefer to ski down....



Or glide!









Way cool!

We spent one night at Paradise Bay before moving on to spot #4, Port Lockroy.

#4 Port Lockroy, 64° 49'S : 63° 31'W







Port Lockroy is home to the U.K. Base.



This base is only open during the summer. The Gentoo Penguins that call this base home are only the minor purpose for this base. Its primary function is to serve as a museum and post office for all of the cruise ship visitors. It is the number one tourist destination in Antarctica.




This ship, The Europa, was paying a visit while we were there. It almost felt as if Shackleton was visiting.

Unlike the penguins at Paradise Bay who were still sitting on their eggs, the eggs at Port Lockroy had already hatched.





The contrast between the Chilean base and the British base was really quite poignant. While the Chile base was very relaxed the British base was very formal. Upon arriving at Port Lockroy we radioed the base asking for permission to come ashore. We were told that they would be closing in thirty minutes so if we could be ashore in the next 10 minutes, we could walk around until they closed. We had not even anchored yet and the dinghy was still up on deck. We then asked if we could come the following morning. In very proper British, we were informed that the following day was a Royal birthday and they would be closed. Okay, how about the day after that? Yes, they were open but there was no availability for us to come ashore. What the hell? It became quickly obvious that our best bet was to get our butts in gear and get ashore as quickly as possible. Without even dropping the hook, we dropped the ding and quickly made it to shore while the captain stayed at the boat. The good news was we made it with 15 minutes to spare. The bad news was we did not get to really enjoy it. I spent my whole time in the gift shop while Clint quickly went around snatching pictures of the displays in the museum so we could go back later and do a "virtual" tour. In all the rush to get to shore, I forgot my address book. I am sorry to those who did not get a greeting from Antarctica.

The best thing to come from our afternoon at Port Lockroy was that we were able to talk to a cruise ship that was returning from the south. The day before we had received word at the Chilean base that the Lemaire Channel was blocked and not navigable but the cruise ship reported that it was currently open.

#5 Lemaire Channel

The Lemaire Channel has the reputation of being one of the most spectacular areas in Antarctica. It is 11 km long and only 1600 m wide at its narrowest point; hence the tendency for it to be blocked by ice. We were very grateful to get word that it was open. As I said, our captain had already begun to start talking about our return to Chile and if the channel was not open the plan was to go tuck a way at a very safe anchorage he knew about where we would sit tight for a week before looking for a window to head back to Chile. Fortunately with the news that the Lemaire was open and the very calm conditions we were having he was willing to go for it. The Lemaire was absolutely the high point of our trip...










Clint taking it all in!!!!!


Those are penguins walking a very long way up a mountain to the rocks where they nest.

















The trip from Port Lockroy south through the Lemaire was just over six hours. The plan when we departed Lockroy was to anchor in a very protected anchorage at the south end of Lemaire. After arriving at the anchorage the captain did not "feel right" about the spot so we turned around and headed back to Lockroy. Clint and I were really bummed, we thought that if we had gotten that far south we would be able to visit the Ukraine base and at least have another week of exploring Antarctica. This was not to be the case. We arrived back at Port Lockroy 14 hours later at 4 am.

Disappointed and tired we quickly crashed and woke later that morning to the news that we were headed for Melchoir; the protected anchorage where we would wait to return. This was on January 7th, just 6 days after arriving at Enterprise. Our Antarctic "Expedition" was over.

It was at this point that things went from bad to worse. We sat in Melchoir one week before the captain began to look for a weather window to return to Chile. We then sat for another week waiting for weather. On January 21st we left Melchoir and headed north.

The return trip across the Drake was much more difficult than the one south; for one thing, I was completely emotionally drained from the psychological trauma inflicted by our captain over the previous three weeks. I did not even leave my bunk for the five days we crossed the Drake. I am not proud of myself for this but it was the best I could do.

We survived the ordeal and learned a lot from it. Antarctica is, to date, the most spectacular place either of us has ever been to and although not all of the memories are good, we are still grateful that we got to go.


At Melchoir.

Some more pictures of our trip:


After four days of hand steering south this was our first iceberg sighting in The Drake.

Penguins! You can never get enough of these guys.




Icebergs everywhere.... To some of you it might just be a piece of ice.... to us, it is art!!!!



This berg was the size of a city block!!


Do you see the dinosaur?



One thing that really took us by surprise was the elevation. The highest peak on the Antarctic Peninsula rises just over 9,000 feet.






It is hard to tell but that is an iceberg in the foreground.

Wedell Seals sun bathing on some floating ice in our anchorage at Melchoir.






Leopard Seals! Which frankly Disney got all wrong in Nemo.


Jaws, aka Miss Piggy, which we stared at for two weeks while at Melchoir, wondering when she would come down and end it for us once and for all.

We were anchored directly opposite just 50 yards away.

Two of three humpback whales we caught frolicking.







For Clint this was the money shot!!

And last but not least, a big shout out to out sponsor:)





We have never asked for gear before but a friend of ours who runs regular charter trips to Antarctica raved about her gloves. We found a distributor for the gloves in the US. Although they only sold wholesale, once we told them a little bit about ourselves and our upcoming trip they offered to send us several pairs! Thank you HT Enterprises, htent.com. Your gloves ROCK!

2017 - Lightning Round

22 February 2018
Reina
We are well into the 2nd month of 2018 and I still haven't gotten around to posting any of last year! And there was a lot last year but nothing to compared to what we have already done this year and have coming up in a couple of months....Yes that is a BIG teaser. So, I guess I better get the blog up to date in a pictorial re-cap of 2017.

Last year started off with the kids visiting. Kurt and Courtney together to Ushuaia where we met them with Karma.



Kurt was with us for three weeks and Courtney for six.



It was truly special to be able to share this area with them. We had some great times and as a family we were able to Round Cape Horn; something truly special! We were not the first boat around in 2017 but we were the first American flagged boat and Duke was the first dog. We rounded The Horn on the afternoon of January 2nd.



After rounding The Horn we spent the remainder of our time showing them the magical beauty of the northwest and southwest arms of The Beagle.



We enjoyed picnics.



Wet beach bar-b-que's.



Kayaking.



Drinking.



More drinking with champagne ice luge shots.



The kid's "Pizza Night".







And even a celebratory "Around The Horn" piercing!





About the only thing we didn't do was get Kurt up close and personal with some penguins. SO this guy had to do...



I think a good time was had by all!



In May we left Karma at the Micalvi in Puerto Williams.



We flew to the US to visit with family. This was Clint's first trip back to the US in over two years! Way too long.

Our time back in the states was a real whirlwind! I am not sure how we managed to get it all in or even to be in the right place at the right time!

We flew from Puerto Williams to Florida where we visited with Clint's parents for a couple of weeks. It was a real shock to the system to go from winter at the bottom of the southern hemisphere to 90 degree temps in Florida. We adapted quickly.

We even got to see Kurt while he was there on an unexpected visit to his mom's.



In June we flew to Texas to visit with my family. We based out of Dallas in June and July. Over the Fourth of July weekend my whole family visited my brother Robert and his wife Chloe in San Antonio.



We celebrated my niece Emma's 1st birthday.



While in Dallas we had a chance to catch up with old friends from our West Palm Beach days, Nicki and Richard s/v Hello Texas. We visited them at their land base just north of Dallas.



At the end of July we flew to Rhode Island to visit Kurt for the weekend and help him relocate to Lubbock, Texas.



Kurt has spent the last two years in New Port attending the University of Rhode Island. It was great to be able to see where he had been living and meet all of his friends; not to mention New Port is a really cool town. Lots of sailboats and posh living.



We saw Ireland v USA at The New Port International Polo Grounds. Ohh Laa Wee....



Kurt arranged a sunset booze cruise on the Rum Runner II.





After two days of serious partying we peeled Kurt off the carpet, packed up all of his crap and hit the road for Lubbock. We only had one small snafu...the truck only had two seats. I got to ride the whole way in the middle, on a lawn chair! I think it was intentional so I could not drive.



On our road trip back to Texas we decided to take a detour and surprise Courtney and her fiancé, Ian, in Norfolk, Virginia.



Ian was on duty and not able to join in all the fun.

Courtney was completely surprised and it was great to visit her for the night. We got to see where she would be starting school in the fall, Old Dominion; and she got to host us in her very first house. Most importantly, it gave Ian the chance to ask Clint's permission to marry Courtney!

A week later Courtney flew to Dallas and met up with us and my family and we all drove to Santa Fe. On the way we stopped off in Lubbock to see Texas Tech and leave all of Kurt's stuff.



(Cruising on the sailboat has come at a price and we miss out on a lot small family events. It was really special to be able to share in the lives of the kids' and see where they live and go to school.)

My mom and dad rented a beautiful house on the outskirts of Santa Fe for the whole family.





The view was spectacular.



During the day we did the tourist thing visiting historic Santa Fe, hiking, and site seeing.



We visited The Bandelier National Park where the Indians lived in caves.





In the evenings we took turns cooking while the rest sat around and enjoyed each other's company and the beautiful Santa Fe nights.







A couple of days after returning to Dallas we packed up, said good bye to the kids and my family and headed to Michigan for two months.

Our first stop was to our friend Tom's boat, Pumalin, on St. Clare Shores, near Detroit. Tom purchased Pumalin the summer before and other than relocating her, he had not had much time to get to know her before putting her away for the winter. For a year we had been planning her maiden voyage; a three week trip to The North Channel, a spectacular cursing ground in Canada on the north shore of Lake Huron.



It was not only the maiden voyage but a "shakedown" cruise. It was 100% successful; lots of shaking down and a long list of things to do. Unfortunately this is only fun when it is someone else's boat, sorry Tom. For once the shoe was on the other foot.



Due to some mechanical failures we cut our trip short and only spent about a week exploring the North Channel. It is beautiful. It reminded us very much of the channels of Chile. We even got to tie off with shore lines!



We enjoyed beautiful hikes.



Like all trips it was riddled with adventure....

On our return trip to Pumalin's home port we decided to spend the night in the marina at Grand Bend, on the east shore of Lake Huron. The port was unfamiliar to all of us and the information we had on it was very limited. We had great sailing conditions 30+ kts on the stern but were concerned about the entrance to the marina. The charts showed that we would need to turn beam to (the side) the waves and the entrance was very shallow with a sandbar. We contacted the marina for local knowledge and was told it was a bit rough but a boat had just come in with "no problem". It is very hard to appreciate from the pictures, the channel into the marina is very narrow with barely enough room for two boats to pass. The waves were in fact breaking in the channel and it was a very hairy entrance. What the port captain failed to consider was the boat that had entered previously with "no problem" was a power boat with much more POWER. Captain Tom put the big boy pants on and did great!







After our Pumalin adventure we headed up to Charlevoix and Clint's parent's cottage on Holy Island.



We were there a month, two weeks with Clint's mom and dad and two weeks on our own. Between lots of projects around the cottage we were able to squeeze in a couple of rounds of golf with Clint's dad and a day trip to Harbor Springs for our traditional tailgate in the park.





We even had a very special visitor.



Tracy Trace all the way from Grenada. She was back in the states on her own family Howdy Doody tour. She took time out of her super busy schedule to visit us in Charlevoix. Apparently we were so busy having fun I took absolutely no pictures....well, she was only with us for 36 hours. WE had to make the most of it.

It was a great way to end our US tour.

In the middle of October we flew back to Karma and the amazing beauty of The Beagle Channel.



We spent November in the channels on Karma. A lot of the time was spent buddy boating with our friends Dominique and Carole, s/v Hippo's Camp.


Caleta Caracoles, Brazo Sudoeste Canal Beagle


Caleta Ferrari, Bahia Yendegaia

We celebrated birthdays.



Thanksgiving.



We fished.







And fished.



Enjoyed many a beach BBQ.





Hiked.



Observed the very rare wildlife.


The Andean Fox.


The rarely seen wild horse of Patagonia, the Bagual.

Played in the snow.



And sailed.


Hippo's Camp

In December we returned to The Micalvi tucked Karma away and got ready for our next adventure.....

Antarctica!




Patagonia Adventures - 10/17/16 - 11/01/16 The Beagle Channel

01 August 2017
Reina
Getting to the bottom of it all.....

No better way to start than with a witty pun. This is always the hardest part for me when writing the blog, and I don't make it any easier when I am always trying to catch up. This time nine months has past and I am trying to recapture it all from a world away. I am not sure why it is so difficult for me to stay on top of the blog; it just is. Thankfully we are not looking to generate income from it but rather only using it as a means to keep family and friends up to date (in a not so timely manner) and mostly as a journal for us to look back on and remember all of our adventures.

We have had lots of tiny mishaps and interesting encounters that could keep me busy with daily blog entries but honestly the true story of Chile is its indescribable beauty. The indescribable part being my big road block.

in · de · scrib · a · ble
indəˈskrībəb(ə)l/

adjective

adjective: indescribable
1. too unusual, extreme, or indefinite to be adequately described.
synonyms: inexpressible, indefinable, beyond words/description, ineffable, incommunicable; unutterable, unspeakable.

Okay enough excuses time to get down to it.

My last blog entry left off at our arrival at the Beagle Channel, the pinnacle of this whole crazy adventure that first started taking shape back in Grenada three years prior. Sailing to Puerto Montt, Chile from Ecuador was our objective. Transiting the Patagonian fjords in Karma all the way down to THE BEAGLE was the dream, the part of the goal that we didn't really share in case we didn't make it. Why might we not make it you ask? After my breakdown in The Galapagos and us almost scrapping the whole plan we decided "if" we did make it to Puerto Montt we would just "take the rest from there". Basically pretend it wasn't happening while it was; denial. Clint realized it was just better to put it in motion but not dwell on the end results. I must say the tactic worked well and I am super proud of myself for making it. I am a big ass chicken that can now sail anywhere!

The Beagle Channel is about 150 mi long and 3 mi wide at its narrowest point. It connects the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Pacific Ocean in the west. Approximately 30 mi from its western end Isla Gordon (Gordon Island) divides it into two branches, Brazo Noroeste (Northwest Arm) and Brazo Suroeste (Southwest Arm).



Unfortunately, I do not have with me the computer that allowed me to label jpegs like the maps from my previous posts. I got this image off the internet. If you are able to zoom in on it you can get somewhat of an idea of The Beagle. The red dots and writing "Romanche, Alamania, Francia, Italia" are indicating the four glaciers on the eastern end of the Northwest Arm of the Beagle; Rome, Germany, France, and Italy. It is in this area that the two arms unite to form The Beagle proper. Puerto Williams, our destination, is indicated with a black dot and labeled; just below the eastern blue box that says Canal de Beagle.


Brazo Noroeste de Canal Beagle

On October 16, 2016, we finally arrived at The Beagle. Since we were travelling south from Puerto Natales our approach was from the west leaving us with the choice of which branch we wanted to first explore. Knowing we would be in the area for a while we chose to start with the Brazo Noroeste and save the Brazo Suroeste to explore when the kids visited us for Christmas; that way there would be something new for all of us.

The weather since departing Puerto Natales had been spectacular, very stable (not a lot of crazy wind) with lots of sun and clear skies. It was still early in the season so there was also a lot of ice. It is very important to pick your anchorages well in this area. High peaks and numerous glaciers accelerate already gale force winds and the multi-directional fjord walls have the wind bouncing from all directions. In other words, if strong weather is coming you better get someplace safe and secure and there are only a few spots on the Beagle that fit that bill. Fortunately for us we had fairly benign conditions and were able to explore most of the caletas (anchorages).

Our first stop, Seno Girabaldi. Our trusty Italian Guide, aka The Bible, describes two possible fair-weather anchorages in Seno Girabaldi neither of which are particularly great. We knew that ice was also going to be a new factor to consider, so we set out early in the day with plenty of time to find a backup anchorage if necessary.

We spent four hours picking our way slowly through the flow ice in Seno Girabaldi. We checked out both of the suggested anchorages and we were not happy with either of them. Our concern was not with strong wind but getting packed in by the ice.

So we came up with Plan B, Caleta Cinco Estrellas.



Cinco Estrellas is one of our favorite spots. It is extremely well protected and has a lot of great hiking and kayaking opportunities. We spent a week there enjoying the security of the spot. For the first couple of days we had some amazing weather to get out and explore in.

With very little wind the first day we were able to comfortably travel far from Karma on the dinghy out to the entrance of The Beagle. We were able to hike up to an overlook for some amazing views of the channel and its numerous glaciers.

Brazo Noroeste de Canal Beagle looking east:







After a week and with more stable weather in the forecast we headed across the Channel to Seno Pia. Seno Pia branches into two arms, east and west. There are several anchorages, all with their pluses and minuses. Caleta Beaulieu in the eastern arm is by far the most spectacular.



This is not the anchorage location described in the Italian Guide; however, when we arrived at their anchorage it was completely blocked with ice. Not willing to be deterred from this spectacular spot we decided to come up with an alternative. We were not super excited with the spot but we were confident that we would have very calm conditions for at least a couple of days.

There is some great hiking and we were able to hike up to a high clearing and get some great views of the glacier.



Do you see Karma tucked in 1/3rd of the way up the peninsula on the right side?

When there is not ice flow blocking the way it is possible to dinghy all the way up to the face of the glacier. At low tide large bits get left high and dry providing a great opportunity for a Duke photo shoot.



With a change in the weather coming we decided to check out a more protected anchorage in the western arm of Seno Pia. Even though we refer to our Italian Guide as "The Bible" we have learned to take their suggestions with a grain of salt. The book describes a spot where you can do a 2-point tie off, stern to shore and the bow to a small islet. There was in fact a small islet; however, there was not a single thing to tie to, not even a rock to wrap a line around. Always having a Plan B, we opted for Caleta Sur but with a different tie off then suggested in the book.

Although the anchorage was not one of our favorites it was secure and was close enough to the glacier at the end of the western arm of Seno Pia that we could dinghy up to check it out



The walls along the western arm were spectacular with a combination of various ores melded together over thousands of years. They were like pieces of art.



While anchored in Caleta Sur, we had a dolphin encounter like no others. When Clint started the outboard of the dinghy two dolphins came zooming over to us out of nowhere. They clearly had not seen people in a while and wanted to play. We zipped all over the place with them chasing us and swimming under the dinghy. We would slow down and they would swim under the dinghy and pop up out of the water just in front of the bow. We played with them for at least twenty minutes. They never tired. Wanting to explore the glacier we left them to entertain themselves. After several hours of exploring in the dinghy we returned to our anchorage. We had forgotten about the dolphins. As we were zipping into the Caleta we felt a bump that scared the crap out of us, we thought we had hit a rock. It was not a rock it was one of the dolphins giving us a friendly tap. They were back to play. It was seriously one of the coolest experiences.

After five days in Seno Pia, we decided it was time to move on. Caleta Olla was our next stop, located at the eastern end of the Northwest Arm of the Beagle Channel where the two arms meet to form The Beagle Channel. Caleta Olla is one of those anchorages that we had heard many cruisers talk about and we were excited to finally see it for ourselves.



The picture above is looking west up the Northwest Arm of the Beagle Channel. If you look closely you can see Karma tied off to the shore in the foreground of the picture. We found this anchorage to be very well protected. The wind comes screaming down the Northwest Arm right over the top of the mast. The trees on shore provide a strong tying point and great protection from the wind. In really strong conditions the boat is sitting in water that looks like glass but just past the bow foam is being blown of the top of the water. Very cool. There are great hiking opportunities at this anchorage. We were able to hike up to an area that overlooks a lake and large beautiful glacier. The lake has a stream that dumps into the anchorage.

It was still crab season and Caleta Olla is a popular spot for the fishing boats. For a trade of some powdered milk, two chicken breasts, and some eggs we received a 40 lb bag of fresh (still alive) King crab. The fishermen were extremely grateful for the trade. It was close to the end off season and they had been eating crab for a very long time. The chicken and eggs were a much appreciated change in their diet.



After our last crab exchange I was not overly excited about spending an entire day in the galley cooking and cleaning crab. This time we chose to just cook the legs and forgo the body. I felt bad about the waste but honestly there is not much meat in the body and without having to cook it I had a lot more room for the legs. I also froze some legs for when the kids would be visiting.

With the kids' visit quickly approaching, we decided it was time to stop playing and get somewhere with internet so we could talk with our families and start ordering all the stuff the kids would be mule-ing down for us.


Can you tell I had been slaying over a steaming pot of crab, for hours!

After three days of exploring and eating crab we left Caleta Olla and headed for Puerto Williams, our final destination. It was on the final stretch that it really hit home for us that we had achieved what we set out to do. As always it was nothing we expected. We were particularly surprised by the calm conditions. We were in The Beagle motoring with the wind on our nose out of the east, an unusual direction. The wind was not helping our progress and we did not want to arrive at Puerto Williams late so we decided to lay up in an anchorage 15 miles short of Puerto Williams.

On November 1, 2017 we arrived Puerto Williams and the infamous Club de Yates Micalvi.



The Southernmost yacht club in the world in the southernmost town in the world!

Vessel Name: Karma
Vessel Make/Model: Sunward 48'
Hailing Port: West Palm Beach, FL
Crew: Clint, Reina & Duke
About: We've been working towards this for almost 10 years. It has been a dream with many challenges, all of which have made it more worth while. We are so grateful and excited to start this next chapter!
Extra: Twenty years fom now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the things that you did do. So sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, EXPLORE, DREAM, DISCOVER. -Mark Twain
Karma's Photos - Main
100 Photos
Created 11 March 2018
70 Photos
Created 22 February 2018
24 Photos
Created 1 August 2016
Tom Comes to Visit Christmas 2015
57 Photos
Created 10 June 2016
Land adventures with our camper.
1 Photo | 1 Sub-Album
Created 20 September 2015
4 Photos
Created 1 September 2015
Tom & Susan visit in March Kurt & Kelci visit in May
92 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
21 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
12 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
57 Photos
Created 1 July 2015
20 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 1 July 2015
Galapagos to Chile
7 Photos
Created 1 May 2015
Isla Isabela
No Photos
Created 13 April 2015
Isla Isabela
No Photos
Created 13 April 2015
93 Photos
Created 5 January 2015
27 Photos
Created 5 January 2015
Bahia de Caraquez to La Libertad, Ecuador
23 Photos
Created 29 November 2014
116 Photos
Created 25 October 2014
30 Photos
Created 15 June 2014
39 Photos
Created 15 June 2014
13 Photos
Created 14 June 2014
22 Photos
Created 11 June 2014
26 Photos
Created 15 May 2014
San Rafael, Ecuador
17 Photos
Created 13 May 2014
Ecuador
11 Photos
Created 12 May 2014
40 Photos
Created 11 May 2014
6 Photos
Created 2 April 2014
21 Photos
Created 22 March 2014
17 Photos
Created 15 March 2014
Leaving the Caribbean behind and entering the Pacific
42 Photos
Created 19 February 2014
12 Photos
Created 19 February 2014
19 Photos
Created 6 January 2014
80 Photos
Created 30 September 2013
53 Photos
Created 2 August 2013
56 Photos
Created 25 July 2013
5 Photos | 1 Sub-Album
Created 9 July 2013
46 Photos
Created 9 May 2013
4 Photos
Created 21 March 2013
13 Photos
Created 20 January 2013
20 Photos
Created 4 September 2012
3 Photos
Created 3 August 2012
15 Photos
Created 2 August 2012
7 Photos
Created 23 July 2012
7 Photos
Created 23 July 2012
11 Photos
Created 20 July 2012
20 Photos
Created 8 July 2012
This is a marine park and home to many turtles
15 Photos
Created 8 July 2012
Dad gets to ride with my girl from Hawaii to SanDiego, via US NAVY
67 Photos
Created 8 July 2012
Visiting family, hitching a ride with the US NAVY, Carl joins the conspiracy
21 Photos
Created 8 July 2012
From Vieques PR to Union Island St Vincent & the Grenadines
7 Photos
Created 8 July 2012
Our home for the last month.
7 Photos
Created 7 May 2012
Pig
4 Photos
Created 7 May 2012
Old San Jaun, Bacardi Distillery & more
29 Photos
Created 7 May 2012
12 Photos
Created 24 April 2012
Touring the DR with Tony
12 Photos
Created 24 April 2012
Some lost photos
8 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
13 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
Costanza
16 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
Puerto Plata to Ocean World
8 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
17 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
7 Photos
Created 31 March 2012
4 Photos
Created 30 March 2012
Ile a Vache
58 Photos
Created 12 March 2012
9 Photos
Created 27 February 2012
ClarenceTown to Salt Pond
10 Photos
Created 27 February 2012
16 Photos
Created 11 February 2012
23 Photos
Created 11 February 2012
38 Photos
Created 30 January 2012
What we've been up to in G'Town
5 Photos
Created 17 January 2012
In and around Staniel Cay
10 Photos
Created 8 January 2012
Christmas & New Years 2011
67 Photos
Created 1 January 2012
Allens Cay to George Town
40 Photos
Created 10 December 2011
Heading to Miami
5 Photos
Created 14 November 2011
Leaving Sunset Bay Marina & on to the Bahamas
8 Photos
Created 12 November 2011
Getting ready for the big day! We moved Karma from her home of two years (WPB mooring) to Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart. Packed up the rest of our "crap", the stuff not coming with us & took it to Texas. After a nice visit with Reina's parents it was back to Stuart to get down & dirty & get Karma ready...
9 Photos
Created 9 November 2011

Karma in Motion

Who: Clint, Reina & Duke
Port: West Palm Beach, FL

Where are we?

Your destiny, is a result of your actions. Live by a code of conduct that will secure supreme hapiness and worldy joys; which are usually the little things.