Patagoina Adventures - Caleta Poza de Oro
01 October 2015 | Caleta Poza de Oro, Patagonia, Chile
Clint
This post is being done while in route south which means that we are posting to the blog via our HF radio; sorry no pictures until we get connected to the internet. We left Puerto Montt a week ago and have come about 200 miles; which is pretty good considering that we wait for good weather windows and only travel during day light. On a good day we can travel about 50 miles. We had hoped to make our first stop the Canal Comau which are the fjords that we visited with Kurt and Kelci and Tom and Susan but because we left much later than planned we saved them for our return in March. The first goal is to get to the glaciers at Laguna San Rafael. This post is about a specific place we anchored called Caleta Poza de Oro. If you Google Earth the following location 44 08.82S:073 06.149W, you will see the area and will be able to follow this story better. Surprisingly, there is a large and proper house with a dock on the south side of the entrance to this anchorage with 5 beagle dogs that greeted us nosily. There is an adjacent house that looks like it might be something they rent out? There are two satellite dishes to keep in touch with the rest of the world. It is unusual to see a house in these very remote islands. No power, no roads, this is way beyond living off the grid. We got ourselves anchored in this beautiful bay that is small enough to provide all around protection but large enough that we could set our anchor and not have to run lines ashore. We got settled in and got the kayaks down first thing. We need to get some exercise. Went by to the house to see if someone would great us, no luck, only the dogs were interested! I did see a person inside and concluded that he might be the caretaker of the property and that is why he was reluctant to great us? Or many he does not like visitors? Might explain living way out here! We continued on our kayak tour to the southeast end of the bay where we knew a river flowed into the bay. The water in the bay was approaching low tide. The tide here is about 7 feet from high to low. We came to a narrow section just wide enough for the kayak to go through. We could see that just beyond the narrow entrance the river opened up some. The water was moving very aggressively in the narrow section coming out. Reina and I successfully muscled the kayaks through the narrow section and into the wider more calm section. Further up the river it opened up to an oval shaped lagoon. Both of us were taken back not expecting we would make it up the river much less to be gifted with this beautiful lagoon. The only thing that was missing was the sun. If it was out I know there are some spectacular mountains all around us but for now we are enjoying this beautiful lagoon. Both of us wondered if anyone had ever been up here? We continued our journey across the lagoon to the east to the sound of more rapid moving water. At the far end we found the source of the noise, it was some very fast rapids moving through some shallow water with lots of rocks. This journey would take us no further. After lunch (and a nap) we decided to see how far we could get up the river if we went on a rising tide. So, at about 1 hour before what we guessed wa, high tide we took off. The first narrow spot that we had to fight to get through in the morning was an easy sleigh ride going up river (or is that down river). It is very weird to find rapids that change direction. We went through the lagoon to the second not passable section from earlier, now it was a lot of water going the other direction. The water was moving very rapidly, with some respectable white water and some rocks and trees to boot. As Reina and I were being pulled into the abyss, we negotiated whether to go for it or not. I apparently did not properly inform her that I was going for it because she did not pay attention to my course through the obstacles. It was a great ride. I got out of the bad area and paddled to the side and was able to use a counter current to go back up current to encourage Reina. She did go for it and for some reason she thought she should turn around in the middle of the rapid water to get to where I was at the side. She knows better, especially after all the kayaking we did in Ecuador. She got sideways and got tangled in a tree a little but did not flip and made it through. As expected it was my fault. I did not properly inform her of my intentions to go for it and my intended course. Oh well after her heart slowed down a little she loved our little rapid tour. We were then presented with a large open lake. This place is so cool. I was hoping to find some salmon up this river but no luck. Now we needed to kill some time and wait for the tide to change so we could get out. Reina was a little concerned about this plan and did not want to get stuck way Â"up the riverÂ" (we did have paddles!!!!). After a little reassurance and deep scientific discussion regarding how water moves in and out of the lake, we agreed to give it an hour and then try to go back. While we were touring the shore line in the kayaks we found another narrow area with some fast moving water, not as fast as the others and we decided to head through. Again we were treated to a huge open lake. Just past the narrow section there was only about 2 feet of water so at low tide this would be a bar and not passable. I feel that for sure we are the only visitors to this volcanic late in a very long time. As it turned out the ride out was very Â"tranquiloÂ". I forgot to mention that parts of the bottom of the lake looked gold, hence the name Poza de Oro or cove of gold, it was beautiful. So goes another day in Patagonia.