First and foremost, a BIG shout out goes to Tom. Every year when Tom visits (sometimes twice a year, yes I am trying to make the rest of you feel guilty..you know who you are) we beg him to contribute to the blog and he never does. This time, Clint was relentless in his harassment of Tom and Tom delivered, not to mention in a very timely manner. We dropped the ball, even when someone else writes the blog we just don’t seem to be able to stay on top of it. So Tom thank you, thank you thank you and we are sorry…..

Tres Amigos en Patagonia del Sur

Written by Rear Admiral Rod Slinger, Coxswain
AKA Tom Henderson
Edited by Clint
Final Touches by Reina

And, that is pretty much all the Spanish you’ll read here. When I travelled south to see my friends on Karma, this title wouldn’t have worked. It would have been “Tres Amigos y Una Amiga en Patagonia del Sur.” A little clunky, but accurate according to our plans. Unfortunately, Miss Reina had to leave the boys to travel to the USA to see her family and Clint, Duke and I were left to our devices which included cooking – not our strong suit.

Side note from Captain Amigo, cooking was not the only problem. Amigo Tom has decided to become a vegan cruiser. That works well when you have good access to endless produce but this far south it can be very difficult; but as always, Reina came through. Even though she was not with us physically she made a daily meal plan that addressed Tom’s “attempt” to be a good vegan and my attempt to be everything a vegan is not!!!!

I was greeted at the bus station by Captain Clint and First Mate Reina which was a relief. The original plan was I was going to have to get to the boat in a place called Estéro Eberhard. Not really having a plan on how to do that and exhausted after over 30 hours of flying, seeing them at the bus station was a welcome surprise.

We made our way to the Armada dock not far from the bus station and could see Karma anchored about a mile away, across the bay, in a place called Puerto La Forest.


View from Karma anchored in Puerto La Forest


A short dinghy ride later and I was back in familiar territory….my home away from home.... Karma. I could not wait to start my adventure into the Wild West! Ok make that really just south but you get the idea!!!


Google Earth Image of the area we explored


The next morning we were moving the boat to a location called Estéro Eberhard about a 3 hour trip to set the stage for our first adventure.

As I ventured on deck to assist Captain Clint get going I was surprised by a very unusual yacht, especially here, that was anchored next to us. Reina explained to me that the yacht was called “Vava II” and was owned by the former Miss UK and Britain’s richest woman Kristy Bertarelli. Her billionaire husband Ernesto was the founder of a huge Swiss pharmaceutical company. The vessel is 314 feet long, over 50 feet beam and over 20 foot draft. It is the largest yacht ever built in the UK. Clint and Reina said that they thought about having the owners over for drinks which is totally normal for a couple of yachts anchored next to each other but after seeing the helicopter take off they figured that they were probably busy.


Vava II


Vava II

So off we went to Estéro Eberhard…


Estéro Eberhard, Karma is on the far left

Our first stop was to visit South America’s second most popular tourist destination – Torres del Paine; I have already been to see the most popular destination…Macchupicchu in Peru. Torres Del Paine and the adjoining park, Parque Bernardo O’ Higgins, are home to one of the most important ice masses on the continent. They also represents one of the largest water reserves in the world. Torres Del Paine Park was established in 1975 and is recognized by the United Nations as a World Biosphere Reserve, for good reason – it is considered by many to be among Earth’s most beautiful places.



After my last trip to Chile in March I had promised myself to be in better shape the next time I came to see Karma. I was true to my word and lost about 20-25 pounds, and had been working out fairly regularly.


Map of our hike

So, the 9 kilometer hike with one overnight to view these majestic towers seemed very doable to me – almost “easy”. What I found was that Torres del Paine which translates to “Towers of Pain”, lived up to its name based on the hike we took; it was 9km pretty much
straight up.





With our 40 pound packs on our backs (for a one night stay??) we started our climb. The first two hours were almost entirely climbing and we gained about 1,500 feet of elevation. On the way up the trail there were numerous caballeros passing us with teams of horses carrying bags full of cerveza. Our desire to see the towers and knowing there would be cold cerveza at the end of the trail inspired us to keep going – at least to the Chileno Refugio, where we stopped for some of those cervezas and a baños break.



The Chileno Campground and Hostel was very clean and the hot food was good. They also rented tents that were already set up near the mountain stream – a nice option for those who want to pack a little less weight (not us).


Park Ranger office, Chileno Campground

After refueling our tank, we hiked the relatively tame next three kilometers to the Campamento las Torres – about another 700-800 foot gain. It is the closest campground to the “towers”. It was more rustic than the Chileno Campground and there was no charge to camp there. We didn’t have a reservation upon arrival – something everyone told us we had to have, or face going back down to Chileno. Clint, in his best Spanglish said “lo siento” and pleaded ignorance, and I think the bi-lingual ranger just felt sorry for our old, sore asses and gave us a spot.




Camp Karma

That afternoon Señor Clint schooled me in the art of romance and sign language…


Monolith tribute to Reina to let her know he was thinking of her and praying for her. The bunny sign is a result of the scotch intake.


We had awesome chicken soup in the community cantina with some British Officer Candidates – Kyle, John and Rory. These blokes were in South America first on a training mission, and then some R&R – they completed the famed “W” hike which is a 5 to 6 day hike through a plethora of varying terrain and beauty. The same trek that Kurt completed in June of last year.



After a few cocktails with our new Brit friends, of course we had to test our balance. By the way, only the “old dudes” gave it a try.



It is all in the wrists says twinkle toes…



No jazz hands here, all business.

We were up at 3:45 a.m. the next morning and after some fine Patagonian coffee we set off to the Las Torres outlook over the “towers” for the morning sunrise. The hike up took 45 minutes – all of it a steep climb up another 1,000 – 1,200 feet. Thank God we were able to leave our packs at the campsite. The trek was through some very difficult and rocky terrain. Did I mention that it was pitch black? They had reflective markers to help guide you along the not so obvious trail in the dark. My favorite part of the hike was taking a break and pointing out to Clint where we had to go. Looking up we saw headlamps of other climbers traversing the mountainside at least another 500 vertical feet away so we thought we could make that. What we didn’t know at the time was the location of the headlamps was still only two-thirds the way to the outlook. We were motivated though, and the payoff was immense.



From the outlook, looking to the east-northeast you are treated to a glowing orange sunrise while first daylight graces Torres del Norte, Centro and Sur. I can only describe the scene as spiritual. God created an Earth of amazing beauty and this is one of the places that got special attention.


View east as sun began rising


View west at the Spires in early light



It just kept getting better….



...And better. Two very happy campers.

Torres del Paine took a toll on the old boys and it was a good thing that we had a down day ahead of us after we got to Karma.
On the following day, Miss Reina took off for the US, after which we motored (wind on the nose no sailing) Karma for about 6 hours from Estéro Ebehard to the end of Estéro Última Esperanza. Using the trusted “Italian” guidebook and their lat/long coordinates for an ideal anchorage in the third bay near the riverhead, we approached. The captain and the stand-in first mate disagreed on the location of this bay, but in the end the Captain won – as he should.


Google Earth Image of the Head of Estéro Última Esperanza



“I don’t know Cap, book says third bay.”


The first mate (aka “Line Boy”) jumped into the kayak and ferried lines to shore as Karma was deftly backed into place. With the anchor down and 4 shore lines secured, cocktail hour began at 10 pm. By the way, in the summer his far south, the sun does not set until 11pm.


In the second (wrong) bay all tied off


The next day we explored a little and went to the other side of the peninsula at the end of our bay. Lo and behold, there was another anchorage…This is the third bay referred to in the Italian guide. The coordinates that identified it took us to the second bay which they did not recommend. In the end, ours was an ideal anchorage – exceptionally calm waters, even though only 100 meters away from Karma everything around us was getting whipped up pretty good.

The next day, from our anchorage, Clint and I loaded up our hiking boots, walking sticks, and more importantly the picnic lunch into the dinghy to head to the Serrano Glacier. This was to be about a 10 kilometer ride. With the day’s weather forecast to be relatively calm and tomorrow’s potentially brining winds consistently blowing around 25-35 mph, off we went.

The trip to the glacier was uneventful. As we passed the first leg of the Serrano Glacier on the eastern shore and rounded the corner heading east to the Bernardo O’Higgins National Park where we were hit by some strong winds, light rain, and eventually, sleet. Welcome to a Patagonian summer, Americano!



The walk to Glacier Serrano took about 25 minutes. In the final 50 meters of the hike, we were treated to a very large column of ice calving from the glacier. It was an amazing sight and its mass pushed water and icebergs down the entire ½ kilometer length of the glacial lake in front of the glacier.


In the left corner you can see the tourists on the trail to the glacier lookout.




While the glacier was amazing – my first experience seeing and hearing ice calve – it was the trip back that made the day an adventure. There is a saying that “an adventure doesn’t begin until something goes wrong.” Well, I’m happy to report that nothing went tremendously wrong. However, the weather report for the day was WAY wrong. We thought we’d be able to amble along the eastern shore (lee shore) back toward the north to Karma, tucking in away from the forecasted 10-15 mph western winds.

We hopped in the ding and headed west toward Karma. On our way, we looked across the fjord and got a glimpse of what was in store for us. About a kilometer away we saw a 40-50 foot ketch with bare poles trying to make headway northward into the fjord. We think the captain wanted to find refuge in protected water and was trying to maneuver into a bay. All of a sudden, he turned to starboard and was hit by straight-line winds powerful enough for the ketch to heel to starboard about 45 degrees. It was time to batten down the dinghy hatches for our ride back to Karma!

When we got to the last leg of the journey we needed to head more north, into the wind. After rounding the last piece of shore protection we were greeted with winds of 20 – 30 mph and gusts as high as 50mph. For the first 1-2 kilometers, we beat into this weather, along with 2-3 foot chop. Ahead of us we saw a phenomena I’ve never encountered before – williwaws – which spawned water spouts as well as “walls of water”. Some straight-line winds were so strong, as they swept across the fjord water, they vaporized and lifted it into what looked like walls of water that were 5-10 meters high and 100 meters wide – all heading straight for us. All we could do was point the skiff straight into the weather, put our heads down and hang on. Our foulies earned their keep!

The last few kilometers were fairly calm and we were able to cover it quickly, only to encounter winds howling out of the NE on our final approach to Karma. It was amazing to see the transition from winds topping 30+ mph, 2 foot chop and sleet in the final half kilometer, into almost no wind and water as smooth as glass when we got to within 100 meters of Karma. We were pretty glad to have such a well-protected anchorage – and cocktails that night!

On Christmas day we moved the boat from Estéro Última Esperanza to Puerto Natales. We had a beautiful day and enjoyed the endless beauty that Patagonia offers. Clint pointed out to me a spot in the hill in the shape of the cross. We both thought it was a good sign and fitting considering the day and also considering that Reina was waiting for news on her tests.


Merry Christmas, taken on the Dec 25th


Glaciers we passed in route to Puerto Natales


Arriving in Puerto Natales, we went ashore hoping to find some shopping and good food and to check in with our better halves. To our surprise, we found some places open on Christmas Day. Our first stop was The Mineral Exhibition, owned by Clint and Reina’s friend Rodrigo. His shop is a very attractive collection of artisan treasures – jewelry hand-made with minerals found by Rodrigo and his girlfriend Emilia on their hikes in the surrounding mountains and lakes. He also had beautiful mascaras – made by another artist in the area. The wooden masks are reproductions of the ones the Selk’ nam men used in rituals. Since theirs was a matriarchal culture, the masks were worn by boys and young men during ritual dances in order to scare their women into obeying them. When I heard this, I had no choice but to buy one. Haven’t tried it out yet, but I plan to…wonder if it will work? We capped Christmas night with a pizza and calls back home. Note to reader, this Pizza was not vegan.


The next morning the anchor was up by 6:30 am and off we went to the Estéro Las Montañas fjord.





It was a long run and we had the anchor down by 8:30 that night, after line-boy put out all four lines – three port and one starboard.


Google Earth Image of Anchorage in Estéro Las Montañas


Caleta Mist

Estéro Las Montañas is a seldom explored waterway – it is off the “beaten-path” in an area that is already off the beaten-path, running North-South and leading nowhere. Because of its orientation the winds can be very strong out of the north. Add snow-capped mountains on both side of the fjord and glaciers tumbling down to sea level and you have a very dramatic place that can get a little wild when the wind blows.

Our anchorage was located at the base of a mountain range that was capped in glacial ice. In the four days we spent in this spectacular location, we explored two nearby glaciers, sounded a bay across the fjord and raced a few porpoises (Clint was not to be beaten!).

Our first excursion was to an arm of the ice field that capped the mountains above us, about five kilometers to the south. When we passed this glacier the day before, from the decks of Karma it appeared as though it dipped its ice columns into the fjord – or at least close to it. When we arrived in the dingy we realized that the glacier had, over thousands of years, pushed the mountain out almost three quarters of a kilometer into the fjord in the form of boulders, gravel and sand



From this location, we didn’t see any easy approach to hike to the base of the glacier, so we motored further to the south end, tied off and began our hike in through some of the thickest bush I’ve ever pushed through. The reward was another panoramic view of what we can only describe as a “blue lagoon.” Yes, that one. Clint and I both know that dates us, but we think we could imagine frolicking in the lagoon with Brooke Shields, if the water wasn’t ice-cold glacial water. (I know I am going to get a lot of crap for that one.)



It is amazing to see how a glacier literally carves a mountainside.







We ended that day with another quick dinghy ride, this time to the north. We knew that there was another opportunity to hike into see another glacier – one that very few people get to enjoy. It is located at the western-most end of a lake. To get there we would need to motor up a short river at high tide and spend no more than two hours inside – otherwise we wouldn’t have the water we needed to get the dingy out. Satisfied that we identified the right pathway between the river’s boulders and rapids, we went back to Karma for another late cocktail hour and dinner.

High tide was 9 am the following day so we were up early and ready to go. The ride up the river was cautious, and uneventful, and into the lake we went. It took about 10 minutes of motoring to round the corner to see the majestic ice field pouring into the water ahead.



We maneuvered the dinghy in as close as we could. I got onto a ledge about 30-40 meters away from the glacier. The ice columns rose 40-50 meters high and the ice closest to the water was an amazing blue. I would occasionally creak and crack, but didn’t calve.

At this point, I’m thinking, “I can’t possibly get any closer, right?” Wrong. Clint had hoped that I could get up close and personal with the ice so he towed one of the kayaks with us. He suggested I get into a kayak and get real close. He didn’t have to ask twice. Yes, an ice column could have calved and who knows – I might have gone swimming and gone into hypothermic shock or worse. But what choice did I have? This was another spiritual experience for me.



The kayak ride out of the lake was amazing. Just as I neared the south shore of the lake, an explosion of ice calving off the glacier a couple of thousand feet above got my attention. I looked up to see ice crashing down toward the lake, wondering if any would reach me. None did, but the excitement put my nerves on alert – all of my senses were sharp, my eyes and mind drinking it all in. There is nothing like this anywhere else on Earth.

We weighed anchor at 6:30 am the next day, but not before a spectacular sunrise on ridiculously placid waters.



We had the anchor down again in Puerto Natales by 5 pm. After spending a day tidying up around Karma, collecting my stuff and repacking, we went into town for dinner and wifi. Sadly, tomorrow I had to leave at 7:30 am on a 13 hour bus ride to Ushuaia. My time on Karma with my kemosabe had come to an end.




The bus rolled into Ushuaia at 8:30 pm. I didn’t have any Argentinian peso, so off to the bank I went. Of course, my bankcard wouldn’t work. How was I to get a taxi? They only took cash and I had none. “Look for the guys with the little pouches,” I was told. None.

I finally asked the bus driver, who was delighted to exchange some peso for USD – at a reasonable 8 percent discount (13 to 1). I finally arrived at my B&B by 10 pm, and off to bed I went.

For my only day in Ushuaia, I planned to get up early and cover a lot of ground. By the end of the day, which would come at about 11 p.m., I put about as much mileage under my boots as any stretch on this trip.

I spent most of the morning wandering the streets of this town. Ushuaia is the capital of Tierra del Fuego and is commonly regarded as “the southernmost city” on Earth. This, along with spectacular beauty and its location on the Beagle Channel, placed it on my travel bucket list. I was disappointed to see that, aside from Avenida San Martin – its main tourist shopping district – Ushuaia is poorly maintained, with graffiti and litter everywhere. I point this out because I had not seen such waste anywhere else I’ve been in South America.

I visited the city’s tourist center, where its very helpful employees strongly recommended I hike up to the Martial Glacier outlook with my one day in town.

The cab ride to the bottom of the ski resort where the trail began was about 7 kilometers. I hopped out and up the trail I went.

The walk up was steady, but not too steep. That said, my trail would rise about 700 meters by the time I reached the top. My pace was steady and determined. I wanted to reach the top with enough time to enjoy the day’s relatively good weather and have enough time to hike down and walk back to the city. It took me almost two hours to hike to the top, and the view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel was spectacular.





While on top, I met two young Argentinians, Patricio and Frances, who were from Rosario and Buenos Aires. Both spoke English well and we had a great conversation – about football, the economy and life. I was impressed by each. They both knew that they were in a very special place, and they weren’t in a hurry to get down. Both young men had a refreshing perspective on life that you don’t always see in young people today – unless you’re in Tierra del Fuego, I guess.

With my legs a little worn out, I decided to take the express route down – at least for the upper one-third of the mountain…



My evening, and my trip was capped off by a visit with our Italian friends on Angelique II, Giamba and Valentina. I had the pleasure to spend time with then when I visited Karma in March of last year. To run into them again at the bottom of the world was truly special. It was a pleasure to catch up with them, hear their stories about the sights and people of Patagonia, and learn of their plans for future voyages. Add some true Italian pasta and good wine and that tops off a very special time for me.

When I think back on my time in Southern Patagonia and Ushuaia, I reflect on how small a world we live in. And, the more I travel and meet people, the more I realize that we are all pretty much the same.

Captain Clint here…..Just wanted to reiterate my thanks to Tom for putting together this blog post and give him credit for the great pictures and videos. Both Reina and I always enjoy our Tommie time.

Regarding that Vegan diet thing. Let me just say that when Tom left I was out of all MY cookies, vanilla frosting in a can, potato chips, (not the veggie chips that were purchased just for him) bread, peanut butter, I could go on but I think you get the picture. Next trip Tom you need to qualify what kind of a vegan you are because I am very confused.