Back in Tobermory again where we had a good time last year. We are here for a few days for M&N to do some exploring, so a further update on that later.
We left Ardfern in fairly calm conditions and sailed and motor-sailed through Dorus Mor and north through the Sound of Luing, wending our way through the islands and the strong tidal streams. It was very pretty and we saw dolphins & seals along the way. We sailed up the channel between Kerrera Island and Oban and headed into Dunstaffnage marina with the wind picking up. As we were only staying for one night and the marina was busy we were placed on the outside of the breakwater which was quite bouncy. M&N picked up supplies in the village and had a drink at the on-site pub, the Wide Mouthed Frog, so M could check out the wifi for watching the British Lions and All Blacks third rugby test match the next morning. N wrote “saddo” in the log!
Saturday morning we took advantage of the good showers then went to the Frog where M was glued to Sky Go on his iPhone using the wifi. A good match and M&N enjoyed the lattes and bacon sandwiches.
The wind was pretty strong when we left Dunstaffnage and headed across a lumpy Firth of Lorn into the Sound of Mull and past the impressive Duart Castle. We turned into Loch Aline and made a less-than-elegant stop, due to a huge wind shift and gust just as we were mooring, on a very short pontoon in the small community-run marina. It is a really nice setting and with good facilities for showers and laundry.
The next day we continued up the Sound of Mull past Tobermory and turned east into Loch Sunart. We soon found the small gap in the rocks to head through the narrow channel which then opens into the enclosed lagoon of Loch Drumbuie. We dropped the anchor and enjoyed the beautiful and remote setting with hills and mountains all around us. See photo of N on anchor duty.
The anchor came up nice and clean the next morning and we continued east along the lovely Loch Sunart and through the narrow gaps between small islands and large rocks to a mooring buoy at Salen. M&N pumped up Annie and paddled to the shore. They walked around the head of the bay and laughed at a toy koala in a eucalyptus tree clutching a wine bottle at the hotel. They walked along the Loch Sunart shore and were very excited to see an otter on the shore which then slipped into the water and swam around for a few minutes before disappearing around the headland. It was the first time M&N had seen an otter in the wild. They celebrated with an ice cream at the café.
The rain arrived and it was a wet night on board. The rain stopped in the morning and we had a lovely trip back along Loch Sunart and the little islands and along the Ardnamuchan peninsula coast up to a mooring buoy in Kilchoan bay. We saw four dolphins and lots of seals sunning themselves on a small island. There was also a seal watching as we picked up the mooring buoy. On closer inspection, when it didn’t move for several minutes, it turned out to be a very old and faded fishing pot marker! The scenery was spectacular with big mountains and views down the Sound of Mull and west past Ardnamurchan Point to Coll. We were quite a way from the dinghy jetty so M&N put Susan (Suzuki outboard) on Annie and motored to the shore. They went for a walk along the road hoping to get to Mingary Castle but it was closed for refurbishment. The wind picked up and it was quite lively on the mooring. A number of other boats came in so we had lots to watch.
The wind was still strong in the morning but frustratingly died just after M&N pulled my sails out. We motored the 6 miles across to Tobermory and had a nice quiet entrance unlike last year when it was blowing a hoolie.
We are now safely tucked up for a few days while M&N play tourist and a weather system blows through. It is a lovely harbour and setting. We had a big old Dutch sailing boat for company as well as an 1870’s Brixham trawler. M&N chatted to one of the crew and they are based in Brixham, where I was based for a couple of seasons before we came north, and doing trips for various groups including school children who are currently on board.
Next update when we are going to leave Tobermory.
Katrina
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