We left Tobermory after a very nice few days there and sailed south through the Sound of Mull and across the Firth of Lorne to the beautiful and secluded anchorage of Puilladrobhain. It is known to get crowded but we were the only people there for several hours, then joined by 8 other boats. It was a windy day (very lively across the Firth of Lorne) and then it rained so nobody ventured ashore by dinghy for the walk over the hill to the bridge over the Atlantic. M&N had done it last year so didn’t feel like they missed out, despite the good pub there. A friendly young seal came to check us out in the anchorage and we enjoyed the lovely views and setting.
Next morning the wind dropped. We had an early start due to the fierce tides in this part of the world. It was a lovely motor sail (sailed briefly but not enough wind) and we rode the huge tide through the Sound of Luing, hitting 12.2 knots at one stage with whirlpools and eddies throwing us around. We picked up a mooring buoy off Crinan with beautiful views all around us. M&N paddled Annie to the shore and did a nice walk along the Crinan Canal which we had transited last year heading from the Sound of Jura back into the Firth of Clyde. They watched lots of boats going through the locks including a huge American motor cruiser that seemed to take up the whole canal. The wind dropped off leaving a usually choppy stretch of water looking like a mill pond. We were treated to the sun setting into the Gulf of Corryvreckan with the mountains of Mull silhouetted in the background. Red sky at night, Katrina’s delight and we woke to another glassy sea and lovely light as the sun rose. Another early start to ride the tide down to Craighouse on the island of Jura, where we picked up a mooring buoy in the bay under the spectacular Paps of Jura. Annie took M&N to the shore to pay for the mooring and to have a walk along the road around the bay. They also managed to get some wifi from the village store and picked up yet another bad weather forecast. The paddle back to me was tricky as the wind really picked up. M&N had read that it was officially the wettest June in western Scotland since records began, and July has turned out to be much the same, though with some beautiful days thrown in to keep us happy. Strong winds much of the time too.
You may have noticed that we have been starting to head south. The two cruising options this year were to cruise around in the islands for a while then to have another winter in Scotland or head back south to Devon. M&N decided that we would head south and winter back on the south coast, and cruise in the west country and maybe beyond next season as well as enjoy sailing me locally in home waters.
Anyway, back to Craighouse, Jura. The wind was really strong (force 6 & 7) during a restless night, not helped by the clanging of a loose halyard on a nearby boat. Luckily the wind dropped during the night and M&N woke to a calm bay and good conditions for a gentle sail down to Port Ellen on Islay where we could wait out the bad weather coming the next few days. It was “champagne sailing” for a while with a good breeze over the beam, and I was keeping ahead of a French boat which left at the same time as me. The wind dropped as we sailed down the coast of Islay so we motor sailed. M&N thought that the conditions were gentle and it was still early with plenty of helpful tide, so we did some quick tidal calculations and decided to head across the North Channel to Ballycastle on the stunning Antrim coast of Northern Ireland. The tides are huge around Rathlin Island but luckily M&N had read them correctly and were able to catch a fast ride around Rathlin and past Fair Head and into the lovely little harbour at Ballycastle (see photo of me in the harbour with Fair Head in the background). A puffin went scurrying past as we went around Rathlin, the first puffin we have seen this season. It was busy in the harbour and in the town but the friendly harbourmaster had saved us a good space as we were staying a few days. We saw a big Dutch tall ship arrive as well as a classic wooden yacht from Sweden. M&N put Annie away as she won’t be needed for the next few long passages down the Irish coast, and enjoyed a lovely evening in this new port (for us). We look forward to a few days here while the bad weather passes through, then start heading south along the Irish coast.
Goodbye Scotland. We have enjoyed the cruising and hospitality in this lovely part of the world.
More updates from the Emerald Isle later.
Katrina
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