Off On A Lark!

Picture a lush green hat with a very large brim and that is Niuatoputapu. Home to the villagers of Falehau, Vaipoa and Hihifo. The island of Tafahi, an old volcano with a village of about 40 lies immediately to the north. It's said they grow the best Kava in Tonga there. More about that in another post.

When we sailed in last week, between the two islands we were greeted by the sight and songs of Humpback Whales. Hearing their singing was a first for me!

The anchorage lies off the village of Falehau and there is a paved loop road that connects it with the other villages. The supply ship comes once a month from Nuku'alofa and it arrived yesterday. They spent the night unloading their cargo onto the concrete pier and were gone by mid morning today. There is one commercial flight (a small plane) that arrives and departs each Wednesday. Very expensive, so I can't imagine who comes and goes.

Horses, pigs, dogs and an occasional pussi (cat) wander everywhere. Oh, don't forget the chickens and roosters. I don't know how thay know what belongs to who. Lots of kids too, who ask 'where you come from'?, 'what your name'? 'take my picture'? They love the digital camera and I always show them their photo on the screen. Oh, they have so little but are so curious.

In Hihifo there's a bakery in someone's home and a small grocery store. The islanders are very happy if we have food or other items on board to trade for fruit and handcrafts. The women appreciate our small household gifts in appreciation of their hospitality.

Weaving pandanus ta'ovala (fine mats that are worn) and fala (everyday mats) is the primary craft here. We've come across numerous groups of women seated on concrete or wooden floors in shady, well ventilated spaces weaving and chatting away. The mats are typically big (8' or more x yards long) so they're sitting on what's already woven, one leg bent and one extended with pandanus strips held between there toes. Fingers flying. If I sat like that for hours on end I'd never be able to get up again!

The temperature and humidity are rising as we keep moving north towards the equator. The sun seems more and more intense too. Thank goodness for our big sun shade over 'Lark', the breeze in the anchorage and our 'Down the Hatch' wind scoop that pulls that breeze down into the boat.

We're a bit sticky but life is good!