SV Kiviuq

A journal of the sailing vessel Kiviuq and her owners Marilou Kosseim and Alan Teale

Vessel Name: Kiviuq
Vessel Make/Model: Van de Stadt Madeira 46
Hailing Port: Inverness
Crew: Marilou Kosseim and Alan Teale
About: Marilou is a Canadian national, retired physician and Consultant Obstetrician/Gynaecologist. Alan is a British national, retired veterinary surgeon and animal molecular geneticist. Both are currently UK-based and members of the Ocean Cruising Club.
Extra:
Kiviuq is a van de Stadt Madeira 46 in alloy, with round bilge and deeper draft options. The 46 is the scoop stern variant of the van de Stadt Madeira 44, the scoop being developed by the builder, Alexander Beisterveld of Beisterveld Jachtbouw in Steenwijk, Netherlands. Kiviuq is rigged as a [...]
13 September 2019 | Shining Waters Marine, Tantallon, Nova Scotia
05 September 2019 | St Margaret's Bay, Nova Scotia
22 August 2019 | Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
13 August 2019 | LaHave Islands, Nova Scotia
04 August 2019 | Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
28 July 2019 | Head Harbour, Campobello, New Brunswick
11 July 2019 | Belfast, Maine
07 July 2019 | Belfast, Maine
06 July 2019 | Belfast, Maine
13 June 2019 | Belfast, Maine
01 June 2019 | Burnside Lodge
15 September 2018 | Belfast, Maine, Nova Scotia
30 August 2018 | St Peters, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
18 August 2018 | Bay La Hune, Newfoundland
10 August 2018 | Isle aux Morts, Newfoundland
04 August 2018 | Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
30 July 2018 | St Peters, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
26 July 2018 | Spanish Ship Bay, Eastern Shore, Nova Scotia
14 July 2018 | Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
06 July 2018 | Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
Recent Blog Posts
13 September 2019 | Shining Waters Marine, Tantallon, Nova Scotia

Dorian and the aftermath

We rode out Hurricane Dorian at anchor in Schooner Cove together with four other foreign boats that came in for the same purpose. All the boats rode safely to their best bower anchors, I suspect on long chain scopes of 10:1 or more. We certainly did. It seems that the latest consensus among the cruising [...]

05 September 2019 | St Margaret's Bay, Nova Scotia

Waiting for Dorian

It was going to happen sooner or later. A hurricane is heading our way. After devastating the Abacos and Bahamas and brushing Florida, Dorian is now close E of the coast of the Carolinas, and the current forecast is that it will go right over Nova Scotia on Saturday/Sunday moving quickly in a NNE'ly [...]

22 August 2019 | Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia

Downward and upward

I realise there is quite a lot of catching up to do since my last post, which left us in Grand Manan, so apologies if this becomes something of a travelogue.

13 August 2019 | LaHave Islands, Nova Scotia

Boarded!

After St Andrews it was time to begin making our way across the Bay of Fundy towards Nova Scotia. This we decided to do in two stages. The first involved retracing our wake across Passamaquoddy Bay and around the southern end of Deer Island, then up Head Harbour Passage to the northern tip of Campobello [...]

04 August 2019 | Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

Things that go bump in the night.

From Campobello we sailed southabout Deer Island, an area renowned for its cetacean populations (and thus also populated with whale-watching boats), into Passamaquody Bay and up to St Andrews. Here we picked up a mooring just 150m or so off Market Wharf, the large and well-appointed town wharf.

28 July 2019 | Head Harbour, Campobello, New Brunswick

Going Downeast

We left Belfast just over a week ago on Saturday 20th July to sail down Penobscot Bay with the intention of spending a night at anchor in Seal Bay, Vinalhaven. Seal Bay is beautiful, well protected and not that far from the popular yachting centres of Camden and Rockland. Perhaps for this reason it was [...]

Eastwards

18 August 2018 | Bay La Hune, Newfoundland
Alan
We quite liked the Squid Hole anchorage in Isle aux Morts, which among its attributes can be included an abundant crop of cloudberries, at least at this time of year. For those like us who don't often eat them cloudberries are something of an acquired taste, but stewed gently with a little added sugar they make a nice desert.

From Isle aux Morts we sailed eastwards to Bay Le Moine (I won't try to guess how that is pronounced in Newfynese). This is a spectacular anchorage at the head of a long fjord surrounded by very high ground which can generate some serious wind gusts. These come hurtling from on high down to the water. In more than one fjord like Bay Le Moine there is a hill called 'Blow me down' and it is easy to see why. Moreover, like most such fjords on the south coast of Newfoundland, Bay Le Moine runs in a north-south direction. This, combined with the frequent winds from the southerly quarter that can be greatly magnified by a sea breeze generated by a hot hinterland on a warm sunny day, can produce strong winds running straight up the length of the fjord, even when the winds on the open sea are light or moderate. It pays to anticipate this. Fortunately we did in Bay Le Moine and we shot up the fjord under just a scrap of jib. Then when one gets to the head of the fjord where the depths reduce very fast, one has to be smart about rounding-up into the wind to set the anchor before the boat begins to drift back at pace towards the shallows.

From the spectacularly beautiful Bay Le Moine, where we spent two nights, it was on to the town of Burgeo. Here we anchored in the Short Reach for just one night. Given the proximity of the fish dock, one night was enough.

On leaving Burgeo on the 13th August, and just offshore of the Burgeo Islands, we were treated to a close encounter with a fin whale. The fin whale is one of the largest whales. This one was probably in the small to mid-size range for the species, but when it came up to blow just 10m from the boat it looked quite large enough. After diving under the boat it came up for another blow on the other side, so we had a very good view and can be pretty certain of the species identification.

By mid-afternoon we were tying up to the floating dock in the small community of Francois (Franz-way in Newfynese) at the head of a mile-long fjord. Francois is still a populated and functional outport; an outport being a small fishing community where the only access is by sea. Many outports have closed down now and the residents have relocated with Government aid to larger and better connected towns or villages. But Francois seems to manage to survive. There are no roads, and therefore no cars or trucks, just boardwalks. But the boardwalks can be quite busy with ATV traffic, and it certainly seems to be the case that no home is without at least one ATV.

The people of Francois are friendly in a quietly reserved way, and a popular pastime seems to be taking a stroll down the floating dock to see whatever visiting yachts happen to be in. Here, as in other places we have been, this meant we occasionally heard unexpected tapping on the hull. For some reason people can't resist tapping a bare alloy boat to get a feel for the material, but it means we often shoot up the companionway to welcome visitors to discover our 'visitors' are just curious passers-by.

Over the few days we spent in Francois the population of visiting yachts built up to a total of six, some of which we had encountered further west along the coast or in Cape Breton (and in one case in Bermuda). Then yesterday morning (Friday) there was a burst of activity on the dock and five boats left within a twenty minute period. At the entrance to the Francois fjord the two US boats in the little flotilla headed SE and the three British boats turned west. Of the latter, one was beginning to make its way back to Baddeck in Cape Breton for repairs, and after a short sail two of us turned into Bay La Hune where we both anchored in Deadman's Cove.

The name of this anchorage does not reflect its attractiveness. It is a super spot that we are told we share with a family of otters. There is no sign of human habitation, just spectacular hills and rock formations and a quite lovely waterfall. It is to experience places like this that every summer a small number of cruising boats make the significant journey northwards and cope with the frequent fogs and uncertain weather of Newfoundland and Labrador.

Today, we plan to pick a pot of the early blueberries that are beginning to appear around the bay and do some cod jigging from the boat. Ultra fresh poached cod fillets followed by a blueberry desert would be a wonderful bonus in this lovely place, but it does depend on our luck with the cod-jigging kit. We shall see.
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Kiviuq's Photos - Main
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About & Links

IMPORTANT NOTE: In Map &Tracking above you can see where Kiviuq was located when we last reported a position to the blog. But please be aware that position reporting sometimes goes down. This can be due to a technical problem on board, to a problem with the satellite system or to a problem with the blog site. Therefore...... PLEASE NOTE THAT IN THE EVENT THERE IS NO POSITION REPORTING THIS SHOULD NOT ON ITS OWN BE TAKEN AS AN INDICATION THAT KIVIUQ AND/OR HER CREW ARE IN DIFFICULTIES. Technical/electrical problems are by no means rare at sea in relatively small vessels.