It's been two weeks since we arrived in the Marquesas - cruising in paradise makes it really tough to find the time to update! Our hike from Omoa back to Hanavave was long, steep but rewarding. The view from the top of the pass and all the way down to the village was absolutely breathtaking. Wednesday, we had a delightful sail over to the island of Hiva Oa, the village of Atuona, where we successfully and officially checked in to French Polynesia - the clock is now ticking and we need to leave in 90 days. Besides some great meals of poisson cru (raw fish in coconut milk)and a fun night at Relais Moehau drinking beer and eating pizza with fellow cruisers, we had a terrific tour of the island guided by Mary Jo with Bruno as our interpreter. We visited two of the most important archeological sites - the grand tiki and the place where great gatherings historically took place. Upon this site was a pit where the humans were kept until being put into the umu (ground oven) for the feast. The tour included a stop at Chez Marie-Antoinette for a many-course meal of traditional Marquesan cuisine (fortunately, long pig is no longer served). Sunday, after attending mass accompanied by much singing in beautiful harmony, we weighed anchor and moved the few miles to Hanamoenoa Bay on the island of Tahuata. Upon waking the next morning, we discovered our dinghy missing. After speaking with two other boats in the bay who had seen two local islanders quietly paddling their pirogues around their boats late the night before, we determined that the dinghy had most probably been stolen. The gloom that descended on Chinook was heavy - with no dinghy, we would be stranded on the boat with only two very wet kayaks to get into shore. None of the options for replacing a dinghy in French Polynesia were good options. After deciding that, rather than sitting around being depressed, we would go searching, even though there was a high possibility that it had been set to drift out to sea. David was the first to take the kayak into the first small beach south of Hanamoenoa - there was our beautiful dinghy, motor still attached, pulled up on the beach into the bush, painter missing and the thieves' lighter on the bottom. This was the best celebration of the trip - a precious bottle of champagne popped. Our cruising plans happily back to sailing in Paradise, although a Paradise with problems.

High spirits are continuing. Two nights in Hapatoni Bay, also on Tahuata, with a pot luck with three other cruising boats. Another two nights back in Hanamoenoa (now with the dinghy lifted up at night) and two more pot lucks with cruisers we partied with in La Cruz before leaving Mexico. We are now anchored at Manomenu Bay (back on Hiva Oa) before taking off for the northern islands of the Marquesas. We've learned a good lesson and will always take precautions against the very few trouble makers that can quickly spoil a delightful trip. As soon as we reach access to the internet, we will post photos of all the above hot spots. We are able to remotely post text blogs but need to take the computer in to WiFi to download the pics.

Deja plus de 2 semaines depuis notre arrivee a Fatu Hiva! Nous sommes restes 4/5 jours sur place; Tres belle et longue randonnee dans l`interieur, entre les deux seuls villages de l`ile. Puis nous sommes alles a Hiva Oa, l`ile sur laquelle ont vecu Gauguin ( tres beau petit musee avec des copies de toutes ses toiles..) et J.Brel ( des passionnes ont fait une tres belle presentation de sa vie, organisee dans un hangar autour de son avion); Paperasse lourde (et couteuse) pour mes amis de nationalite americaine..; Puis une journee de visite de l`ile en 4/4 avec paysages hors du commun dans ces reliefs volcaniques et tropicaux, et de quelques sites archeologiques relativement bien preserves.. Puis nous avons passe plusieurs jours sur Tahuata; mouillages vraiment sympa; Une grosse emotion quand on s`est reveille en constatant que notre annexe avait disparu...; Apres plusieurs peripeties et de la persistance nous l`avons retrouvee cachee par les voleurs dans une autre baie proche, derriere les cocotiers.. Conclusion: le nombre de visiteurs qui augmente provoque les memes effets que dans les iles antillaises trop parcourues par les voiliers. Aujourd`hui nous tentons un dernier mouillage sur la cote Nord de Hiva Oa ( essai il y a 2 jours mais la mer rentrait trop dans le mouillage) et ce soir nous mettons les voiles pour les iles du Nord: Ua Pou et Nuku Hiva, d`ou je prendrai l`avion vendredi matin.. A tres bientot ! Bruno PHOTOS:nous ne pourrons les mettre sur le site que lorsque nous aurons un acces haut debit dans un cybercafe!

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