The Marquesas islands jut up dramatically from the sea and are sculpted with razor-edged ridges. Follow your eye down and you’ll see emerald green forests while the small hamlets and villages sit peacefully at the base of these soaring mountains. The islands are so fertile that coconuts, mangoes, bananas, pamplemouse, breadfruit and cashew trees grow in just about everyone’s garden.

This is also the land of the Tiki which are strange looking stone carvings. Most are modern and have no religious meaning anymore as the Polynesians were converted to Catholicism centuries ago. The Tikis are from the distant Polynesian past when it was thought they held the souls of their ancestors. The Polynesians were also tribal and war like and any prisoners were made a human sacrifice to feed the Tiki souls.

Tattoos are very evident and again part of Polynesian culture, most of being of traditional design and symbols. Sadly much Polynesian history, which was passed from generation to generation by word of mouth, was lost when European settlers brought disease wiping out 95% of the native population. The Catholic Church also banned tattooing, traditional dancing and many other aspects of ancient traditional life (although I can understand their disgust at human sacrifice and the odd bit of cannibalism!)

While on the island of Fatu Hiva we sought out the home of the local carver, Mark and his wife Blondie as we were on the hunt for a wooden Tiki. We were keen to buy the genuine article (not imitation imported from Indonesia or China which filter the markets in Tahiti). Mark was indeed a skilled craftsman and we fell in love with a large Tiki he had made from a beautiful hard wood. However the price shocked us, 120,000 FPF which is approximately £850. We didn’t have the cash nor were we wanting to pay this much. Mark’s Tikis are in homes all over the world so he was pretty savvy as to the market value. However I did buy a tiny Tiki to hang around my neck made of shell but also left with a huge free bunch of bananas, half a dozen pamplemouse and dried bananas beautifully wrapped in banana leaf. The necklace wasn’t expensive so I felt I was walking away with his profit but we have found the Marquesans to be genuinely generous people towards the few tourists who venture here.
Sadly we are still on the lookout for a Tiki and haven’t seen one nearly as nice as Mark’s but we’ll keep looking.

We are now waiting for a weather window to sail the 500 nautical miles to the Tuamotus islands. There is currently very little wind but fingers crossed the wind will pick up by the end of the week. Have a look at the picture gallery as we have been very privileged to experience the amazingly unspoilt beauty of the Marquesas.