Epistle continued

From Fort Lauderdale 2003


In these troubled times, levity is just around the corner - if you dont go looking for it, it will find you anyway (if your blinkers are off) !

We had an interesting trip down from Melbourne thru Ft Lauderdale and then down to Key West. Our friend Donnie who's boat we stayed on whilst in St Maarten joined us from Ft L to Key Largo (I nicknamed him Auto-Pilot cause he liked the rudder hands on approach.)
Our first night we anchored @ K.L. the anchors dragged 200 ft and missed all the boats - very weedy bottom.
Donnie was an old hand at the area and introduced us to quite a few nice places.
Key Largo was just as relaxed as he promised and he took the bus back to Miami to get his car - so we ventured further afield.
1 memorable night we ended up in a ranch style bar with all the muso's of the area and of course donnie used to play with them. Some wonderfull characters emerged with scottish and south american ancestry - I think we left after 2am - I remember being tired and a dreamless sleep afterwards.
I finally bought a pair of goggles and checked the hull - only half a rudder - been like this a while - but it still worked so we continued.
Donnie returned to work and we continued down to Key West over the next 3 nights - Bahia Honda is pretty - but what a rip tide, couldnt relax, and the 7 mile bridge is looong.We ended up just outside KW and overnighted on an unused mooring ball reccomended by the lady next boat.
We ended up motoring the next day round to the fleming cut where the anchorage wasnt too crowded. I have been staying aboard for the first 10/15 hours in case the holding isnt any good and this was definitely not the best holding - but I reset the anchors and they worked.
KW is a definite place to visit - I think this has been duplicated on a previous email but not everybody got it.
Head west young man should be head to Key West - lifestyle is VERY Pleasant. We met an old sea dog called Gypsy Dave on a tiny 2 masted 21 ft wooden boat and a wooden dingy almost as big and heavy.
If anybody is in KW, look up Dave in fleming cut on a tiny green boat called URCHIN. When you read this dave, take a bow...
Dave is not like some of the other old salts we have met - he has a varied background and made our stay in KW memorable. We missed coming back to KW and visiting.
The American authorities said that we were not "not allowed" to go to cuba so we planned just that...
Left 10 am and motored out as far as the reef. The gulf stream took us shortly thereafter and a northerly wind shook the seas up pretty bad so I checked our position and we turned tail and ran back. Stream took is 20 miles very quickly (close inshore too) so I figured we would come back out of the current and head "upstream" before turning south.
Come night I was on watch and I see better without the running lights , BIG MISTAKE, I suddenly say green and red lights coming REAL FAST and a spotlight cought us in its brilliance.
You have to remember, war is 24 hours away, no lights and headed towards USA coast - definitely smuggling cubans - so after an hour of explaining and the CG advising me to return to USA and me refusing, they left us and we continued motoring upstream. They returned (now got my lights on) 7 hours later and a similar explanationoccurred. Luckily I had checked out of coast guard and had paperwork to prove my intended destination.
Next day we attempted to cross the stream, and the wind died - the stream has its own weather and so we motored again - had to get out of the grip of the 3 knot current. Well , we eventually got out the stream and we made it to 6 hours outside Marina Hemingway when - no more petrol. so we sailed slowly to the markers and into the chanel.
The wind died 100 yards from the check in dock so eventually i disengaged the dingy, and rowed/towed us in - easier on a 27 footer.
The authorities were quite impressed.
Our stay in Cuba was more than interesting - because the rules are NO ANCHORING, you meet people in the marina who normally would be anchored elswhere. Mainly canadians and mostly cruiser types (we wont mention the americans). The marina was very secure with guards everywhere.
We spent a day/evening in Havana which has a lot old buildings in the process of being restored. We teamed up with 2 younger music orientated guys looking for local music and thus saw a bit of what we might otherwise have missed. Come 11pm we took a taxi back to the marina and fell soundly asleep - a lot of walking.
The money in cuba is 3 tiered (i think)
1. usa dollar
2. cuba peso with parity to usa dollar
3. cuba peoples money with 26 pesos to the usa dollar.
so there are "dollar" stores taking only foreign currency and local stores who will take local money - but to get the local money, you need to get a local person to "black market" the exchange.
Vegetables were really cheap - 10% of USA prices and so tasty - grown in real dirt with proper moo poo fertiliser. other foodstuffs did not appear readily available but I believe no-one starves in cuba.
I would reccomend anyone to get to cuba - well worth it. Just dont stay at the tourist traps; and at the marina you will meet many nice people.

oUR STAY WAS COSTING US 15 TO 20 BUCKS A DAY so we decided to head north. Our route was thru to Marathon via spanish keys to Ft Myers - took 3 days - out of spanish keys watch out for the final marker - it is IMPORTANT (we went aground). Cought our first fish on ATE and enjoyed them with cuban vegetables.

At Ft Myers I called ahead and asked where we could go to clear in...
After much radio traffic - turns out the radio guy was new, we were escorted in by Coast guard to the dock and ¨"guarded" for 4 hours untill the process was finished. ATE got a clean bill from the CG but we still had customes and immigration and treasury - They pull out all the stops when you come from cuba. The customs guy made me pour a bottle of cheap rum away and that was the end of that - he ignored the beer and sodas.
The only guys who were downright nasty were the immigration but, I´ve had worse. The sniffer dog scratched the varnish on the boat badly and no-one offered to take the shoes off. fortunately, the final paint & varnish has yet to happen.
All in all it was an experience. USA does not officially like anything cuban so be prepared for a fine tooth comb on returning.
I would certainly go back but would consider a stopover in bahamas.
From Ft myers we headed for Okeechobee and ended up at the GLADES haulout near La Belle.
Here I discovered the marine experiment rudder and stripped it. PA cleaned the hull and I made a new rudder out of marine ply (3x1/2")
Fortunatly some very nice people at the yard helped us (thanks steve) and we were able to complete the job fairly quickly (10 days)
The boat handles quite differently now altho going astern is still quite a balancing act.
From Glades to clewiston, bypassed Moore haven to hear it had a tornado soon after we passed - weather was squally so we spent the night in Clewiston, early start in the am across the lake - we had a cloud hovering over us the whole way - millions of little pupating bugs.
and so thru to St Lucie. By this stage the motor has just worked so well, it just keeps going.
Next stop, delray beach for PA to visit the Bramha Kumaris and next day to Boca Raton to Tom & Nancy (recently of Lela).
Our stay in BC was memorable - wow T & N you guys pulled out all the stops. Very good advice - Nunce & Underwood in Ft Lauderdale are excellent. The remembered you too.
Anchoring in pt everglades is forbidden so we are currently stuck in the Dania cut where currently it is free.
Unbelievable coincidence, heard of a couple in USA whilst in cuba who were turned back by the coast guard - met roy & dianne at Sailorman in Ft Lauderdale. and then whilst checking out with the authorities met the other "south african" couple from the Glades who know Steve well.

We hope to head for the bahamas tomorrow as the weather is favourable.
And thereafter New York.

I am sure I have left out a lot of stuff but the time is running out here... this spanish keyboard is a challenge.

We will continue the epistle later...

we are fine , fit , healthy and looking forward to Canada.



and... JUNE 2003


AHHH the epistle returns...
Some of the recipients have a 5000 character limit so am splitting this up.

recap - we left the Glades after the haulout and had a simple trip to Ft Lauderdale, ended up going to the Dania Fleamarket - $10/head entrance - what a ripoff - but certainly the best marine fleamarket I have been to - the prices were rediculous but some merchants were very negotiable. Unfortunately it is geared for the person who already has lotsa stock - not the guy with a few things to sell. I spent $20, peta ann the same but on food go figure...
We anchored in a bad place and moved to within the dania cut and found an unused slip where we parked off for 3 days - on the 4th, a very abusive gent threaghtened us with "dire" consequences if we didnt move NOW. If he had been a bit more reasonable, I would have offered to pay but he was so rude I just shrugged my shoulders and moved in 10 minutes - found a much better place - Silvie's lake.

I readied the boat for the trip to Bahamas and waited for the weather to improve - checked out with immigration on the friday and left tuesday night. We had 4 days left of our 30 day visa !!

It was a little lumpy but not bad.
The next bit is not for sensitive readers - go to epistle part 2 if you are worried...

the window was 24 hours and I estimated 14 - 17 hour crossing. weather swung and we were blown past west end and at white sand ridge all I saw was breaking rollers with a strong south westerly and my depth guage was reading 3 ft and then nothing ???
I could see the clear waters beyond but didnt have a chart for that area - we were using Steve Dodges Abacos guide only - and I didnt trust what I saw. So I headed back to USA.
Whilst in ft Lauderdale, I tried to find a suitable hank on jib - the existing roller furler system only allows pointing 90 degrees to the wind but was unsuccessfull. would have taken too long to ship a sail down from somewhere else and a new one too expensive.
So I couldnt sail where I wanted and the chop was so bad the motor couldnt handle it - when I turned around to try motoring directly in we had the prop out of the water too often and were going backwards !!
So , I set sail for Canaveral. after 28 hours @ the helm I couldnt see the compass and decided to stop.
I had popped the track from the strain of the jib sheet and had reefed the jib as best as possible. The halyards were wrapped around the mast, main not possible - I had been really sailing fast - weather now was strong westerly. So I said to PA to watch whilst I slept. She left all the lights on and flattened battery 1 but I did sleep. I then set my first sea anchor (not successfull) and then put out 2 KMART shopping baskets lashed together - worked out pretty good. we spent 3 days out there with pretty big seas and winds - mast lower than the seas sometimes !!
Peta-ann hunkered down and I tried to tell here these things happen - not to worry - the boat was sound. When we first stopped, the dingy broke loose from the stern and was secured by the safety line. I was concerned the now full of water dingy would be washed onto the deck by a wave and breach my waterproof deck with considerable damage - so cut it loose - with water and oars and thow cushions and all - bye bye dingy sayanara - its now in the atalantic somewhere...
I contacted local ships and reported our position to the coastguard twice and we had 4 knockdowns - the last as I had the hatch open chatting to the coastguard above us. We took very little water on, had a little chafe and the boat was fine. The seas/wind abated on the third day and we motored down to Walker key - 45 mile south. I had water in the fuel but managed to run it Ok. the rudder I put on at the glades wasnt bungied on and now had 45 degree play, so I was very gentle with it - made steering dificult. We picked up a floating line on the prop at 9 pm and managed to clear that ok and anchored off the reef at walkers midnight in calm seas.
We spent 2 days at walkers and I fixed the engine and tiller problems OK.


Immigration lady was "fairly understanding" and I asked for 45 days and got it no problem - (later extended also no problem) just explained I was very tired and needed sleep badly. cost $100 as expected.
@ Walker Cay Peta-ann decided to stay the night at the dock - $40 not too bad - they had free showers that drained thru slatted floor to the breaking waves underneath and lotsa water hot & cold.
Guess who took 4 showers (me of course) and rinsed all the clothing and bedding out at the same time.
The weather was superb and it was hard to believe we had just been thru a westerly. (future friends of ours spent that time in marsh harbour at the dock and said it was miserable)
We got to speak to the other people and asked who had a dingy to spare/lend/sell - any purchase of a "foreign item" must have duty paid on it ??? A very kind gentleman lent us his dingy and arranged to meet us in MARSH harbour in a weeks time - very lucky.
we met a boat there who was right next to us at Glades in Okeechobee who was doing much the same as us - amazing... They had a lumpy trip also - missed west-end also.
We sailed on to Grand Cay and only went aground for 30 minutes (rising tide) and successfully kedged off (for the non nautical folks, walked out with the anchor and dropped it, then pulled the boat off)
and spent a night there. I put out both anchors and at midnight we had a squall - the other boat came past us like a freight train so I flashed the spotlight on the boat to warn them. They woke up and motored back avoiding us successfully.
Grand Cay is fun - typical low income area - reminded me of Botswana - just poorer. Rosies pub is worth a visit.
After that we sailed on (well motored actually) and put in at Great Sale waiting for the weather to clear.
Great place to wait but we didnt go ashore.
next stop was Spanish Cay for more gas and then on to Green Turtle where as we came in we saw...
Nelson Baily's KASKANAK. so we hollered at him and he popped out like a troll. A pleasant surprise - we swapped stories and got news and advice - went in to anchor later - really cute harbour.
Spent 2 days there - did first email (50c/minute) and P/Ann phoned around.
For those that know, we did the "dont rock" route - hair-raising and I had to take evasive manouvers round sand shoal but we sqeaked thru ok and went on to Marsh harbour no problem.
Our dingy was a godsend and we returned it to its owners 2 days later. and we got the loan of the "yellow blister" , an inflatable kayak with its own navigation system next day. THANKS KEN & MARTY
We now were highly visible but P/ann was slow to try it out.
We were prepared to complete the repairs and spend time settling down and let P/ann resume normal operation (fat chance) . the stores were not too expensive altho some hardware was very expensive.
over the last 2 months we got to know a lot of people - mainly thru the moring vhf68 radio-net.
I was on the radio looking for things like dingies, charts, sails and stuff.
Our prayers were answered when a hard dingy was found available at green turtle and Nelson brokered the deal. I bought it without knowing exactly what was coming , Nelson towed it over for us. Thanks again Nelson. the name is NO WAKE a pram type rowing dingy - bright red and rows like a dream. Now we were set. P/ann enjoyed rowing it and she has now got real muscles.
We had a good time in Marsh for a while but needed to move about - so went to Man O War cay (founded by contientious objectors a few hundred years ago - locals immediately called the "men-of-war" and the name stuck) I found it very pleasant but everybody is related and looks the same - no booze on the island for sale but has a very active alchoholics anonymous - P/ann found it creepy ?
I was quoted $50/hour to repair my jib - decided to hand stitch it. so back to Marsh Harbour after 10 days.

Abacos back to Melbourne.

Its been weeks since all that happened and I will have to rely on my
senior brain not to miss out the "fun" bits.

Please excuse the rambling style of this "E" Some of you will find
interesting bits.

Our stay in the Bahamas was extremely pleasant and I will certainly
try to return.
Peta-ann wanted to see more and did a trip to the bottom of the
island (by land) with a group and got off the boat at the same time
- I dont seem to get boat bound in the same way so it was good.

We visited Hopetown and met a wonderfull wood sculpter & Indonesian
Chef called Perry Petri - His studio is behind (carltons) Island
Grill. If you get there, go to see him - a great guy, a cruiser
currently doing his thing. We met him by chance as we wanted to see
the English Soccer cup final and the Island grill seemed to be the
place. PA did the laundry at the same time and brought another Brit
in to watch Allan? from whisker. And wouldnt you know it, just as
the games getting real exciting, Steve Dodge starts chatting to me
about my impressions about his ABACOS GUIDE. Timing ???
Seems he thought our experience and comments were worthwhile - I
hope I wasnt too rude too him.
didnt really understand who he was untill half way thru. Any way
the Gunners won YEEEEAAAYYYY

A deserved plug for Island grill - Of all ther places we went to ,
this was the most cruiser friendly :-
say Hi to Mike if you go there.

We anchored next to another Bristol 27 and I met the owner -
Wellington , a very pleasant young man who "gave" me a 100% storm
jib - original - needed a bit of repair but it works well. I
believe he has a bunch of stuff under his house - it is referred to
as WellMart - anybody who sees him, please pass on my best regards -
the repairs are holding out and I can now point a lot better.

We went back to Hopetown later after a wedding when a lot of the old
Waterline marina people were in Abacos but didnt really make
contact - weather dead on the nose again (storm jib not ready then).

Another pleasant place was Bakers Bay - Now sold so improvements
will wipe out this extra-ordinary anchorage. Its an old cruiseship
docking place where everything was abandoned 3 years ago. A lot of
the roofing is intact and its spooky - just like Jurassic park
movie 2... The old dolphinarium has a wreck in the middle with nice
snorkling. If you get the chance - visit it.
But best of all was the free coconuts everywhere - I had plenty and
loved it. Been waiting since we reached the islands to do that. A
machete was provided and I lopped the top off green coconuts to
slake my thirst - just like robinson Crusoe - a boyhood dream comes
thru.

I was offered a crew "job" with an old guy to Spanish Wells on a
freedom 39 (his crew was called away urgently) so that was great fun
- off my boat, on a new rig, forward sail is the main and the aft,
the mizzen ??? sailed well. Spanish Wells dont like tourists much
place is run down and little repaired after last hurricane. But I
liked it - got a lift back on a gulfstar 44 trawler with Ron & Sue
to Little harbour where the barmaid took me back to Marsh Harbour.
Ron was a captain on Big boats and he had all the gadgets on his
trawler - we were hit by lightning - no damage - amazing.
interesting fellow - they know the abacos well and he has lived all
over. He writes articles for the sail magazines under the pen-name
Buchannan...

Back in Marsh harbour we bumped into Mike from "Let It Be". We were
in Luperon at the same time (but didnt chat) and then we met at
Waterline, and now in Marsh harbour...
We kept on bumping into people like that for all the time. It really
is amazing.

another delight was Snoopy the beagle on "Patience" , skipper Kieth
from Kentucky - a pleasure to know you sir.

And of course we met Sarah on "the edge" a 26' magregor sailboat
with a 50 hp outboard (wow)
Sarah was (is) amazing - look out for "the edge" and say hi.

Peta-ann wanted to stay longer & I wanted to get going so she ended
up staying with Snoopy on Kieths boat when I left. I got a youngster
(25) to assist me over - he is a greenhorn, 225 lbs half cherokee, he did OK but lost a few cushions and didnt tell me ??? We ended up at Cape Canaveral where I was
glad to see him go - he was morose as soon as we hit the gulf stream.
The good news was the trip was easy
(2 squalls only) and USA immigration gave me 6 months. I was too
close to Waterline not to return so I motored down to Melbourne for
a surprise hasty visit. My apologies to all those I missed in
Melbourne. I really felt happy when I turned into the little
anchorage but stay was short - I need to get going north.

As I set sail north I realised my "crew's" Jibe-ing had caused some damage.
I stayed at Cape Canaveral rafted up to Black Jack (just b4 the bridge) and met the
crowd there at Tingly's - great people with similar problems as the Waterline had/has.
I was still looking for crew but was un-successfull so set off for the north solo.
The weather report was so good I tried for a straight run to Beaufort...

Of course mild weather = becalmed dammit dammit dammit - time to reflect.
made good progress when the wind did assist tho.
ended up opposite Georgetown after a night of tremendous lightning and squalls (northerly)
and decided to hoist all sails and hightail to G/town. had a very good sail - 5-6 knots thru lumpy seas
before wind abated and went down to 4 knots. Motored the last while and reached G/Town entrance @ dawn - very tired. anchored and slept for 8 hours straight.

Got off the boat after 2 days and came ashore - bought 2 lbs shrimp and ate the lot for dinner last night
felt very good - stomach still in shock - hope it wakes up soon...
met some cruisers (invited to nickel/dime poker 2nite) and it seems a fun place to be for the 4july celebrations.

hope to leave for Cape Fear, icw , out thru the marlboro inlet, thru to Beaufort next week.


Sorry about the blow by blow recounting... some of you will find it
boring - More exciting stuff will follow - I promise

JULY 2003

Hey, I made it to Anapolis and have time to reflect...

I hope my dry sense of humour hasnt been left high & dry like in the last couple of "E"s

Georgetown turned out to be a little dry, I drank 3 beers in the whole time I was there but fortunately the Fire In De Hole Erotic Bahamian rum came to the rescue.
By the way , its completely untrue that this speciality rum (its the cheapest rum you can buy) burns 2 times, once when it goes in & again when it leaves. It is true about the erotic bit tho. I haven't had dreams like that since I was a teenager - just goes to show , I'm cheap te he.
'Course the cynics amongst you would say I'm just having a senior moment and returning to my childhood - bring on insensibility I say hey hey.

I met a couple of characters at the anchorage, 1 guy went out in a "deflate-able" with a noose on a stick and a flashlight catching 'gators ! He did return but wouldn't comment on the success. The said vehicle was still inflated the next am. Maybe the gators of America aren't as chewy as our toothy African brothers. Or maybe they went the way of the native Americans - who knows...
The other Character had a wooden 50 ft ketch and was a food critic, retired roadside billboard salesman (he sold some to the Chicago MOB) and woke me up every night on the way back from the BIG TUNA BAR asking if I had any Hashish !!!. Actually he was a very pleasant and knowledgeable fellow - the memory lingers. The 4th July turned out to be very quiet with only a big fireworks display to make it memorable. I personally dont like these things 'cause my dogs always ended up shivering wrecks.
At least I didnt pay for it - It would be intertesting to find the total $ in smoke @ the end of the day.
I'm sure it would have paid for many things far more worthwhile.
I left on the Sunday due to good weather forcast & on the 15h00 tide motor-sailed out. A southerly 15 knots made the 2 hour trip quite lumpy - but the main steady'd the boat and we made it OK.

At this stage I would like to back track to my sojurn in the Gulf Stream previously.
An interesting phenomena occurred that I wanted to share with others more experienced before I broadcast it - after the rum comments, I'm sure you'll concur.

Let me tell you about my 3rd & 4th day in the gulf stream off the coast.
I had been cat-napping and was still tired when the voices came. Now rested and able to comprehend what happened , I can remember it well - every sqeak, rumble & audible noise was received by my senses as a badly tuned radio where I was receiving lotsa voices with overlaid stations. It seemed to be eminating from the engine area but I couldn't pin it down - It was like I had a receiver in my head with no discerning tuner - but the volume was too low to understand it. I heard breakfast talk shows, scraps of music, coastguard type messages etc.
Then there came the night and the "prescence". I was steering by hand due to the "inclement weather" (did this for40 hours straight) and was aware of company.
It was not a religious experience in any way but it was like I was not alone. The "person" was male and aware of things on the boat that needed tending. It wasn't comforting and it wasn't ethereal either - no ghosties - I was just not alone. I tend to speak my thoughts aloud when single-handing so I think I had simple conversations with the "prescence". Come daylight, the company faded.

In retrospect, I was overtired and was halucinating but it was comfortable.
If any of you had similar occurrences, please tell me.

Back to my continueing trip.
Had a good run overnight and made a wonderfull following sea with 15/20 knots and my 140 genoa working well. Auto pilot didn't cope too well (in fact it died) so my tireless arm seemed to manage.
Cape Fear was interesting as I had fairly large wavelets to surf down and we were "cooking".
I would not consider the reverse. It would have been VERY UNPLEASANT.
The best was yet to come - 9 knots into the river with the incoming tide plus wind...
Very nice - sailed at speed all the way to anchorage at Rightsville.
Had a well deserved sleep - didn't need no rum either.
Next AM got out the defunct auto-pilot. Turned out the water had got in and corrosion was the order of the day - circuit board had a dry joint. So my free gift "sodering" iron was plugged into the genset and I was ready to fix it.
But I now have antique eyes - bring out my pedestal magnifying glass, bought with misgiving and never used untill now - and continue...
NOW I UNDERSTAND ABOUT THE RUM my dammed hand wouldnt keep steady enuff.
I refused to have hair of the dog and did my famous deep breathing excersizes and re-positioned my hand for minimum vibration. The repair is now complete and the circuit board functional & ready for exhibition at the finest avant guarde art gallery.

Due to the repairs, I only left at 2pm. The weather report was unfavourable for outside so I reckoned on spillage of the strong southerly breeze into the ditch (ICW) and opted for inside.
It was a good decision but I did more motoring than I wanted.

Going up the ditch was really just like all the other times - it has been getting more and more tedious.
I ended up at the Norfolk lock with a lot of time to plan my single-handing and found the whole thing really easy. They offer "self service" with big rubber buffers on the opposite from normal side.
The only un-usual aspect was the drainage occurred with the gates closed and I "woke up" just in time to avoid "hanging" the boat - most of the locks I've been thru open the gates to drain - anyway, it was a very gentle "downer".
I would have liked to spend more time in Norfolk but time was marching and I needed to get to Anapolis.

Up to Anapolis, the weather turned into a soft northerly which subsequently died. So motored the rest of the way. My little motor has behaved like a real stalwart trooper. I am amazed. 2 day trip and arrived 10pm to a rolly anchorage near the entrance.

THE NEXT MORNING I WAS AWAKENED BY A SADISTIC SARGENT SHOUTING AT THE TOP OF HIS LUNGS TO THE NAVAL CADETS TO RETICULATE THEIR LIMBS IN A SUITABLE FASHION.

Wow,about a rude awakening, beauty sleep (necessary) was impossible so I dragged my moribund corpse towards the coffee and bopped around every time a power boat zoomed by.

I spent the time tidying the boat and then asked a neighbour for a better anchorage & he reccomended where I am now - thru the bridge into a very peacefull creek with birds, squirrels, pretty trees and apartments etc. My neighbour has been there for 3 weeks no problem, so I look forward to a quiet spell. The dingy dock is close by and town and this coffeeshop a quick walk away.

and so I bring you all up to date.

I am fine, fit, lean and enjoying the lovely cool weather.

untill more news floats by...



July/August/September

Definition by little canadian boy epistle = wife of an apostle ...

Well now - last you'all heard , Annapolis was reached, and approved of.
Still that way now - weather nice & mild, people very friendly, not too expensive if I'm carefull, and generally a comfortable place to hang out.

Have a placid bunch of live-aboards here :-

Pat , a 60+ single-hander , originally French/Italian, on a Golden Hind, now a "sometimes from Philly", and just hangin' around. Chuck, has a a Bristol 26 and sails a Walker Bay 8' to work, young guy : laff-a-minute.
Cy, has a neat Westerly 32 and a distant wife with a perfect SPCA rescue mutt called Spike(-Tacular).
All in all, a neat bunch.

Spar Creek has free anchorage (fair holding) with an array of ducks to nibble your bottom when not begging bread . All part of the scenic variety.
A new addition is a couple of brilliant white geese with orange horns above the bill who do everything, and I mean everything , in unison. Sight of an audience has them leaning as far forward as possible without getting wet, honking like classic geese and if one goes to port , the other follows 1 tenth of a second later, If one pirouettes, the other too. Never is it a single chorus, always a choir. They like titbits but dont seem to chase the ducks away, just got longer necks to reach.
Funny thing is, we never see the beaks moving during the cacophony - we have a theory that its all "wind from astern". Or they are brilliant ventrilloquists'.

I have been looking for delivery work and landed a job helping to bring a homebuilt 30' cat back from Mattapoisset (near Providence) back to Annapolis. We left last Mid month and took a day up by car and 9 days down - 1 day waiting for fog to clear - no night travel.
The owner, Michael, had an accident as a child and has a spastic right arm and weak right leg but was amazing in his ability.
Michael bought the cat in mid-winter and by now had done enuff prep to make the boat relatively suitable for the trip down. One of the questions he asked me was my weight ? The deck he has installed between the hulls was plywood with a creaky tendency - even with my weight. By the time we arrived back, it had a few cracks but nothing major and it held up pretty well.
I (fortunately) took along my chartbook of Delaware/North so we had a good chart - Michaels charts needed an egyptologist to decipher the heiroglyphic annotations. Please take note - Parchment has a tendency to warp with different humidity conditions. I think the old guy who built the boat got them for a christening gift and decided they suited the boat. (Are you getting all this Mike)
We actually had a good run down (best was 85 miles in 1 day) and even with the bare boat furnishing and rudimentery galley - we had some fun.
Even had a repair when a power boat cut in front of us in Ocean City and we had 4 serious wavelets test the structure to past breaking point. Mike crawled in to the bow and using various compounds and putty's sauced up with venal vocabluary managed to epoxy the floppy bits back to something supportive.
The trip was a shakedown cruise and the list of necessary improvements gave reason for many discussions and passed the time adequately.
We stopped every night and were just outside New York when the BIG power failure occurred. Our only concern was if we could get fuel the next day at areasonable time. wasnt too bad, had to wait a short time and found a dumpster with lotsa "goodies" in it meanwhile.
Michael shares my concept of every dumpster has buried treasure.
Our stopping off points unfortunately did not co-incide with adresses I had for that area - so missed some potentially good stop-offs. Sorry guys, but I was working.
Our trip thru the "race" and Hells Gate was an experience but not particularly mind-blowing.
Just got to plan it for the tide. We went outside from Atlantic City to Cape May Canal due to bridge restrictions but otherwise had a "take the easy route".
doing 7 - 8 knots just before cape may - neat.

The D.C. Canal can be negotiated at night - good lighting all the way - we didnt know.

My boat is still up for sale and so far interest has been minimal. We shall see - the boat show (&maddness) cometh and hopefully some-one will see the potential. I am still trying to find details on the north west passage but am not having a lot of luck. I will maybe go back to Bahamas if the boat isn't sold and try again next year. Or maybe head for Canada this winter ? I really have no definite plans.

Peta-ann arrived last month and has her boat anchored next to mine. Of course she is a hit with the local single-handers and has them eating out of her hand and assisting with all things nau(g)tical.
The squalls here are vicious and quick - holding is not bad if you have 2 anchors down but we have all dragged - mooring balls are $25/day so we stay on anchor. So Peta-anns little danforths were tested beyond holding and a "gift" of a larger danforth is now holding her up.
Her habit of dragging ( 3 times) into (waiting) nearby boats had the locals curious - she seems to leave her fenders parked next to any old single-handers boat at first sign of a calm after the storm (never mind my poetic licence). Comments about Peta-ann always "arriving" during a "blow" are sure to follow. She has the cutest little anchor lights (solar powered) stern and bow with a lovely romantic glow and is now a fixture in the creek.
Her cooking skills are being tested and we tend to eat pot luck together.
Urchin, her boat, now has a battery with a reasonable electrical system (fuses correctly placed), and has the mast up and motor starting on cue.
She still has no dingy - but we kinda share and a damsel in distress is sure to be rescued (she wont agree to my idea of "underwear" flying on a halyard means "come and get me").

Our time in Luperon 2002 introduced us to "luperon glue" - Annapolis also has that effect. It is so relaxed here and I have successfully put a lid on the spending - I could spend more time here easily.

The local HARD BEAN AND BOOK has good coffee and free internet - so I am here plugging away at emails, crew searches and North West Searches. - very nice place - even radio stations take over a corner to do live broadcasts whils I'm keying away... Anybody who gets here, lookup Gary & his crew.
I hope to have a website set up this week to keep digital photos and copies of the epistle ; so stand by for an improved communication.

As September is upon us, I shall put this bit of news out and do a follow-up after the boat show.

post ISOBEL september / october

Wow - what a non-event for Ate - I slept thru the worst storm in a while...
most of the more permanent boaters in Spa Creek were offered accomodation in the local condo/marina's un-used slips. This was in their best interests as any dragging and otherwise wayward boats would have been missiles guaranteed to impact thier pristine toys.
Anyway, we all moved in the day before and put our lines out to cope with a 7+ ft increase .
I chose a spot more exposed but far from the large trees, and Peta-ann was tucked into a snug spot.
The local authorities were very consistant in preparing the locals and I must say it opened my eyes as to what can be done to prepare. For all that, we had a perfect spot and apart from a little rain and an extra high tide, it was a quiet night. At midnight and high water, my lines were OK and I went to sleep.
The next morning the water was still high and the docks were flooded (being new they were still in one piece) and I watched my neigbours take the deflate-able out to "check-it-out". They returned with booty - mainly fenders and reports of main street under water.
The coffee shop I am sitting at was 2 ft underwater and most of the areas close to water got waterlogged.

Just spoke to a lady who says this is the worst flood in living memory - in 1954 it was half as much water ! - she had some fun photo's.

a couple of boats dragged anchors - but most were well secured.

Actually (2 weeks later) quite a lot of damage - some hefty breezes (+75 knots) and lotsa marinas and low-level buildings had lotsa damage...

Its now 3 days 'till the largest boatshow in USA here in Annapolis. The place is buzzing and the place is a veritable hive of organised activity - the team who put this together do the other boat shows as well so its a full time job with the preparation obviously well thought out.
The municipal dock is nick-named "Ego Alley" 'cause of all the fancy boats that dock here. All those are evicted and the fancy new boats from all over the world are racked up with literally 4 inches between bow and stern. New docking lines ! The show starts in ernest on Thursday and lasts 'till sunday when the crew get to work to get all the sailboats out and move the power boats in. They say its a show all in itself. I'll have more to report later.

My boat is now almost ready for the colour photo shoot - I have been loaned a palm orbital sander and have sorted out the wood and varnished it. Looks great. Now can I sell it ? not much interest ???

We will see - might have to take it to Florida...


wow what a day 9th october I'm working the Annapolis Boat show for Spinsheet

Have 4 days of 2 hours a day and free entrance - not bad... and next week too.

Already bumped into Ilene from St Maarten and recognised a few others. Great job - 2 hours is just perfect - I have a sore back after 2 hours of just standing around...
Nice bunch of people too.

And the frenzied excitement doesnt abate - its Saturday and have just returned from the Seven Seas Fleamarket where I bought a Delta anchor for $15 and sold stuff for $40 and...
have agreed to fly tomorrow to Charlston to crew a 74' Irwin Ketch to Ft Lauderdale - woweee.

BUZY BUZY etc... have now returned to cold Annapolis after a smooth delivery with a nice bunch of guys - got more excitement from the Greyhound return - Engine blew up after Ft Pierce - had to get a transfer...

Seriously - the delivery was fun, and I did a couple of days day-work in Ft L and made some good contacts. Funny thing, we all had identical red toothbrushes ????

I am now in the process of doing final bits to Ate and have decided to haul her here in the Chesapeake and return in the spring. I have a delivery from St Maartin to Miami in January and a few more options. As per usual in this game, its only final when you have the money in your hand, but the boatshow provided me with a few contacts and I am positive...

and to end on a funny note - 20 years ago a car went over my foot and when healed it is slightly shorter than the other : I found a SPERRY pair shoes for $5 size 8 left & size 8 1/2 right - perfect fit...

I'll sign off this month now and continue later you'all. Not sure when I will have easy email again ?

Kris from a cold Annapolis (40f)

NOVEMBER 2003

hey its winter in the northern hemisphere - time to head south...
hope all you recipients are happy where-ever you are :

Scott Curtiss from St Maarten and now New York has asked me to bring a boat back from St Maarten to Miami - a french version of the J 24 but beamier. I have already received an advance expenses payment and will be in St Maarten soon(ish) . He expects to be sailing with me in late January to island hop up. Time will tell what will happen.
At least I will have a place to stay in St M. and it will be great to say Hi to all thepeople again.

Bumped into Bob & Debbie from Anne-M in the street in Annapolis - A pure chance lovely surprise - PA was in Philly for the week-end so only saw them at the bus station.
Great to catch up on all the news and stuff. I had news for them and they likewise.
They have a wonderfull story to tell about Nova Scotia and the Customs Gestapo but alls well that ends well.Debbie is just the same and Bobs glassy stare just the same after 6 beers...
A breath of fresh air - Annapolis has been frigging cold the last 2 weeks and they heped warm it up.

After my delivery (74' ketch) trip to/from Ft Lauderdale I have winterized the boat and looked for a slip.
A haul-out would have been good but nowhere in easy distance was it possible for a reasonable sum. Peta-ann and Pat are planning to head south to Bahamas very soon - she has stored her boat in Spa creek. I suspect they will be south of Charlston by mid December.
Eventually - after a few tries I found a slip in Spa creek for 130/month and no insurance required.

I have been emailing a guy called Nando for a while now about possibly crewing for him and we arranged that I meet him in Hampton Virginia as soon as my boat was set up.
The boat was securely stored / stowed on 2nd Nov and I got a ride to Hampton (near Norfolk) the same day - arrived 11pm. Bus's were in a state of Africanism - not on time and taking a long detour to where you want to go - so ended up going to Kent Island over the Bay bridge and then all the way down to Norfolk via Salisbury (in the dark) over that long Chesapeake Bridge and tunnel system - really quite a treat.

Nandoo has a PDQ 36' Catamaran in excellent condition and comfortably turned into a floating condo/apartment. Its his 1st boat and he now has no other home and is living the life - needed "some" help and I was glad to oblige. I have spotted some things that need attention and am busy resolving them day by day. Altogether a very comfortable situation altho' I have the USA visa situation to deal with as well must be gone by early December.

Hampton - a pretty place with the distinction of a free museum dedicated to Jaque Costeau's life and organisation. Well woth the visit - I went back twice.
Got up fairly early and readied the boat for our trip to the "dismal swamp" - very relaxed - only left at 9h20. Easy run out and leapt up to attention when the radio asked the "sailboat near the submarines to move away" . Thought it must be us and immediately shifted over to the west. Bridges in Norfolk interesting - Lift to exactly the height you tell them your mast is - therefore exaggerate the height by at least 5 ft.
We turned into the Dismal Swamp canal knowing that according to the guide book we had missed the lock opening and puttered along to find an un-scheduled opening with 2 boats ahead of us. No problem to squeeze us in and were we in for a surprise.
The lock master was playing old Dean Martin & Frank Sinatra @ full volume and whilst the lines were organized and the waters rose (8') we hummed along and waived our booties in time to the 50s songs. The lockmaster then picked up a conch shell and proceeded to bugle it better than anyone I have ever seen. Quite enchanting.
He announced that it was his birthday and we could donate any "interesting" shells for him to make horns from. All you planning a trip thru the "swamp" take your spare shell to the man - he is quite a character.
We have anchored in a flotsam filled backwater here at Deep Creek and after doing battle with the flying teeth tonight will be off down the ditch in the am.
The lady at the next bridge/lock Tammy was a lot of fun - big smile and helpfull (free candy). The village is "quaint" kinda belongs on one of the outer islands of the Bahamas.
We hit a few "objects d'art" floating in the water and thought we had lost a prop but so far nothing has stopped working.
For hurricane Isobel, the lock watrer depth was increased by 8 inches and Isobel rose to within 5 inches of the top. Over 600 trees were removed after Isobel.

Next day got in the front and went very well stopping at Catfish creek - completely deserted and weather gusting to 20.
If we had stopped in Elizabeth City I believe it is very festive and the boaters make a plan to stop & party on the dock under the tent.
Good run the next day to Bellhaven where we docked at the marina and had dinner ashore. Didnt particulary find the town that interesting and subsequent talks with other boaters confirm this.
About 6 boats all left the next am , we being last out and 1st in with a very breezy downwind run surfing up to 13+ knots... 30 knots apparent with the just the jib.
What a life - last to leave Bellhaven , first in at Oriental.
Overnighted without going ashore - continued to New Bern next day - light winds and a "gentlemanly" sail.
Nando left me there to return to Philadelphia for 4 days - but weather turned lousy and I couldnt appreciate the place. No public transport and local convenience store recently closed down ???
But the bright light was I met Paddy (wife) and Mike and crewdog Poteen of Chi Lin, a concrete junk rigged boat from Simonstown S.A. who have been cruising for many years. We had some rooibos tea and a good yarn and news of the Traditional Boat Society from Cape town.

I found a delaminated transom on the boat and we hauled out at Beafort to repair before the planned offshore trip to Charleston. Town creek marina very helpfull.
Another family on a cat here are in for repairs - bad electrical fire in the cabin 80 mile offshore and needed coast guard assistance during heavy weather coming into Beafort - we count our blessings.
Bumped into Rob & charming daughter Lindsay of "Tecumseth Voyager" ex Canada whilst quaffing a swift one at a local watering hole here. Look out for them , they are headed all the way down the ditch across to Abacos.(call sign ve3azc) (and again in Charleston)
Weather too breezy to go offshore - so 3 day job on transom well timed.
Nando has a laptop with internet access so I am lucky again - am searching for I hope to crew further from Charleston...

Scott Curtiss, my doctor friend with the boat in St Maarten, now tells me the delivery is "aborted" - choice phraseology - so am just going with the flow now.

We had a good run from beafort to Rightsville beach - no wind but no seas so an economical run.
Next day was "very" breezy so we explored the town - not too impressive but OK.
Early start for Nando is 10 am so we kinda made the tide, motored and sailed a bit down the ditch to Cape Fear and then on a good tide started our overnighter to Charleston. Had a pleasant run with 20 knots on the stern most of the way. Arrived early am to catch the tide and are now at the city dock.
A good run with a pleasant boat and Nando turned out to be a real pleasure - relaxed and comfortable.

A boat needing crew left the day before we arrived so am looking about for another boat - Nando is wintering here. As it is so close to the month-end and I may well be moving on before having time to do it, I will end this one now.

Hope you all have a wonderfull Thanksgiving/Xmas/New Year - I will be thinking of you'all.



December 2003

Wow what a lot I got to tell.
This version will be on my website as well 'cause its lots and lots...

I left Charleston after an interesting trip on Nando's PDQ 36' Cat. We did some fine sailing and had some fun overtaking the fleet on the way down from Oriental.
Some of the noteable useless info bits are :- Beafort restaurant called "sanitation" ; in North & South Carolina, no ways to get anything but a well cooked burger - not even medium-rare ; Beafort marina car available to anybody - first time I drove in US of A (licence, what licence?).

I left Charleston on good ole Greyhound and went to Miami to stay with my friend Donnie, who's boat we stayed on in St Maarten. I have been borrowing his charts so had to return them. He now has a ready made family with Beatrice and their 2 kids... Donnie is still with American Eagle and doing well.
I decided to head for St Maarten and see what happens - before I left, Jim Kilbourne from St Maarten, now in St Pete asked me to deliver his boat Heart of Oak back to USA from St Thomas. So - if you wait long enuff, something happens...
As I write this, we are happily delivering...
So, I flew to St Maarten for a re-union and looksee with old buddies - ended up drinking too many Carib & President, and had a great time. I'm glad to see all is well and not much changed. Doug Hunt has offered to let me "occupy" his boat when I return next time so all is well. I had a wonderfull surprise for Marita in Back Street where I stayed the next 3 nights. We had a long chat and cought up with all the news - also say her husband (now officially ex) Louis and discussed at some length the island politics and economy. Saw the ice-cream lady Cancy and made people stare in Front street as we hugged (she from Jamaica mon) - all in all a very enjoyable 3 day stay.
Of course I spent time at Lady C (got my Tshirt) and Lagoonies to be fair (Christine & Scoff too).
It was like I never left.

And so I flew to San Juan & St Thomas and located Heart Of Oak at 8pm on a Friday night after dinner at the yacht club. USVI is certainly an expensive place to be.
To cut a long story short, I managed to leave with all sorted out (liferaft rented from New York) and went to Tortola first - had to leave the US for Visa reasons.
Tortola is just full of South Africans - you hear "die taal" and its like I'm still in Cape Town. Interesting and just as expensive as USVI.
On St Thomas I found crew - a 20 year old Quebec'an who is a dingy sailing instuctor and a good helmsman. We arranged a reasonable deal and so far all is well - struck it lucky this time.

We had stuffing box problems necessetating "proper tools" and a burly welchman crawled into the space and eventially dis-membered the siezed nut and fixed the problem. A very tenacious gentleman who was cheaper than the St Thomas and arrived promptly. Met some people from Annapolis and spoke Afrikaans at will.
And so we left ffor Luperon - and the wind died. We ended up motoring almost the whole way with a stop in San Juan on Sunday evening waiting for more fuel.
Appart from the lack of wind - it was a very mild passage with the Mona passage a babe. The sails were up to give us an extra half knot - the boat is a definite cruiser, not a racer. We lost our fishing lure and now are using coke can strips.
Arrived in Luperon 24th to find its a public holiday and all the officials had palms out for Xmas. Not too bad but double cost of Cuba ???
The Peso is now 35 to the dollar - WOW everything is cheap. Beer (large) $1.50 midday meal $1.15 etc.
small print here, ladies $6 (i'm not kidding)
Joel, my crew is enthralled and agrees its a cool place.
Xmas eve was a big party and we wondered around taking in the sites, ending up at the new discoteque - wow.
Xmas day was quiet and we just came in for dinner. Next evening we were more adventurous and I took Joel to the local Car Wash - euphemism for whorehouse.
Loud music LLewd Ladies & got Joel to do the Marengue (local dancing). We left without making any serious "deposits" and went home quietly to recover.
Today was "get the sail dingy working" day - successfull. we dont have to row.

But I leave the best bit out...
Checked email 2day - Peta-ann is married to Pat (american - PA calls him Maurice??)............. just getting back on my chair...
BIG BOG surprise, I know you will all join me in wishing her and the lucky groom a happy life and wonderfull times ahead.
They hope to honeymoon in Bahamas on Pats boat Irena 32' Golden Hind,
Pat & I are still discussing my commission !!!!

So I am in Luperon for Xmas and New Year and then off to USA and after that I dont know...

I wish you all good memories of Xmas and a prosperous new year, Health, wealth and happiness.
and of course fair weather...