San Blas Islands – COMARCE DE KUNA YALA
13 February 2015 | a narrow 226km long strip on the Caribbean coast, which stretches from the Colombian border to 60 miles east of Colon.
an island for every day of the year
IMAGE: Kuna people -very colourful and friendly
KUNA YALA – The community (Comarca) KUNA YALA is home to Kuna nationals- the 1st group in Latin America to gain indigenous autonomy. Kuna Yala is officially part of Panama, but is autonomously ruled by a few powerful chiefs- called The Congreso. The Panamanian government respect their tribal laws, traditions, culture and lifestyle. Traditional law does not allow for Kuna natives to marry non-Kuna – expulsion is the consequence. Sadly one of the results of this genetic insulation has resulted in many albinos. We saw a young albino little girl whilst wandering around the Nargana township – she really stood out from her dark skinned siblings.
The Kuna look to live a rather stress s free life. We saw them up early before the morning sun to do a spot of fishing and paddling around in their wooden dug canoes, called ulus. The men not involved with fishing or harvesting paddle the ladies and children around to visiting the yachts – they are selling traditional handicrafts made of brightly coloured glass beads which they wear around their arms and legs and molas - the patterned embroidery from the woman’s clothing. In the evenings the families seem to handout under the stars after cooking dinner from an open fire and then retire early to sleep in their hammocks. Clan identity is paramount and today 32,000 live on the districts islands, and 8000 on tribal land along the coast. There is a real effort to preserve traditional life on the community islands, and the mainland villages in tightly packed homes of bamboo huts. Their basic existence is without electricity or modern sanitary conditions in close family units – old and young all in together. The Kuna diet is freshly caught seafood, smoked fish, yams, bananas and pineapple. The passing Colombian fishing trawlers trade with the Kuna for supplies of rice and flour.
We saw many of the local ladies wearing traditional dress – colourful wraparound cotton skirts (no undies),light cotton flower print blouses (no bras) with puffed ¾ length sleeves and a patterned large embroidered breast and back plates on their chests. Most had gold nose rings, large earrings and wore bright red headscarves. There didn’t seem to be any traditional dress for the men.
Sadly the tourist dollar is now becoming the main source of income – but this fledging tourist industry is invading these beautiful islands, with all the wrong consequences. In 2009 a road to Carti, the closest mainland village was completed making access by road and then water taxi to the island far more accessible. Rubbish is an overwhelming problem. The accommodation required for stayover guests rather than just day visitors has led to some real eye-soreing housing being built, which is ill thoughout and totally destroying the natural outlook and the basic charm of this very special part of South America. From the beginning of this year the Comarca chiefs have introduced a monthly visitor fee for yachts and per person on-board charge - $60 per month for us. In addition some of the islands owners are charging $1.00 per person to land the dingy and walk on the islands, and $10 anchorage fee. The fervour and in some cases intimidating pursuit of these fees we found overwhelming.
We spent 3 weeks doing our own mini National Geographic tour of the magically beautiful San Blas islands. After the Australia Day party all the Aussie boats went off to do their own thing, and we easily got into the groove – breakfast and then at 8am listening and participating in the SSB Magellan Net, 8.30am listen to the San Blas Connections Net and then set off to explore yet another island or anchorage – a great life.
After leaving Elephante Island, and all the other Aussies behind - we successfully made it out the shallow southern pass from Naguarchirdup and headed in the general direction for Los Grullos – but as the wind was up to 20 knots decided to go straight to Gunboat Island. This tiny island is completely surrounded by reef – with just one shallow and narrow pass to get through to the anchorage. 2 other boats – One World and Maggie – both charter boats with a traditional look were already in the small anchorage when we arrived. There was little to no protection from the swell so we decided to move on. The little palm tree island did look idyllic with 4/5 huts, but it was obviously for tourists and not a family island. A local boat approached us waving a receipt book – but we informed them we were leaving – I think it was their intention to charge us, and they hung around until we had the anchor up. It was good to sail with only ¼ genoa, just drifting around taking in the scenery. We carefully negotiated our way – with James carefully double checking everything on the chartplotter and Open CPN charts on his laptop to Gaigar up in the mangroves close to the mainland for our stop for the night. I purchased my 1 souvenir molar from Vencino (a local vendor who was the very 1st to approach us on our arrival day) for the price of 2 cookies each for him and his wooden dugout paddler/driver, and $US10.
We needed a boat jobs day so the shallow waters here in Giagar were excellent 1 day and overnight stop. Many of the local fisherman were around us all day, and finally by mid afternoon one offered us crabs and/or lobster. He had 3 good size crabs which we purchased for $10US. We put them to sleep in some warm water and then boiled them up for dinner. James opened and cracked them, and proceeded to get all the meat out. I prepared some potatoes and a caper and cucumber cold sauce to accompany them. Together with a cold cider it was a lovely evening meal – the crab meat was sweet and very enjoyable indeed.
Our next day we enjoyed a tacking sail today between the small islands, shallows and reefs to Salardup island in the Nagyargandup group. It was an overcast squally day, with winds 18 to 20 north-north east. We anchored with about 6 other boats behind the protection on the reef and in view of the beautiful island. A few motorised Kuna boat bought tourists in to swim, and mainly from what we could see through the binoculars to take photos of themselves on this beautiful beach. There are some disgusting plastic camping tents on the island – no huts for accommodation and just a cooking hut. This island is being developed in the wrong way – what a shame.
On Superbowl Sunday, we had heard the Americas on the morning SSB net talking about their planned get-together to watch the game – not for us this year, instead we had a quiet day on Salardup Island watching all the comings and goings of the private charter boats with guests coming and going. We went ashore for a wander around and did some snorkelling. All very lovely.
On 2nd February James 58th Birthday, we sailed 6 miles east, just with the genoa to Canbombia Island in the same island group. We could anchor close enough to shore for James to row in and have a look around. A very beautiful and basic island, with thankfully no development, just a large family unit living here – all very traditional. We said hello and had a quick look around. They had a good stash of smoked fish, and one of the young teenage girls was grating coconut. The men had a rubbish fire going so a good chance to get rid of our now weeklong sack - we paid $1.00US to add our bag to the pile. There was a large family calling this island their home. The fishermen showed us their catch, and we purchased 2 good size fish for dinner.
Next we headed for Green Island, and anchored between Il Sonio & Muck – both yachts we know. Had had an afternoon walk around the football pitch size island of the island – only 1 shack and no other development. Throughout the overcast day with annoying rain showers we had the usual visitors selling fish and molas. Overcast day with annoying rain showers. The night as rolly and windless- so we were keen to move on again.
It was off to the main town on the Rio Diablo –Nargana. The two communities of Nargana and Corazon de Jesus are united by a large bridge connected them with the mainland. We had heard on the morning SSB net that fresh fruit and veg was now available – so we were in luck. We took the dingy into a dock at a traders home, where we met some French sailors who led us to the best store. The goods had obviously just arrived and were still in their sacks. We got enough basic supplies and also some eggs – all at a good price. The village was not one thing or another, but still very basic housing and sanitation. The families were not living Kuna huts, instead in basic concrete housing and some form of organised streets, shops and housing. There is a large, noisy and over polluting power station- enabling the homes to have electricity and everyone had a TV and or music blaring out. All the local people we friendly and open and OK with us taking photos. We saw a school – but no sign of any classing going on, all the kids were out playing football and basketball. There was a bank, but no ATM machine or money exchange facilities and some evidence of the official Kuna Yala congreso administration offices. Unfortunately there was no internet available and neither of our phones would connect – so no chance to contact Mum so she could sing Happy Birthday to me for tomorrow. The anchorage was filthy, and rubbish is a disastrous problem here. The sanitary facilities were basic outhouses perched over the water.
We had a wander and look around before setting off on a cracking afternoon sail to anchor of one off the few deserted islands behind the Coco Bandero reef. There was no permanent villages here, only guys out in their dugout collecting coconuts and fishing. We anchored in shallow sand behind a stunning uninhabited Palm Tree island for the night. We had a late afternoon welcome – not Kuna this time, but a few dolphins came out to play very close to the boat. The superlatives keep coming – but it is extremely stunning here - blindingly white beaches, extra tall straight palm trees and clear, clear waters. 5th February - Happy Birthday to me! What a lovely place to wake up to on my 57th birthday. I baked a loaf of soda bread and a cake (which turned out more like brownie) to accompany the planned evening event of champagne and smoked oysters. We took a short dingy ride to the smallest only one tree island and then enjoyed some exciting snorkelling in very shallow waters over a wrecked ship. The next stop was at ‘our’ island for some beachcombing and snorkelling – all really lovely.
After breakfast the next day and after talking with Ednbal on the morning SSB net we set off – sadly leaving our ‘splendid isolation’ spot. The stunning isolated Holandes Cays were our next stop. These 21 mostly uninhabited cays are protected behind a 7 miles long protected reef. These Cays are the furthest from the mainland and its rivers–so the waters are crystal clear. After another cracking sail to The West Holandes Cays, we anchored in the ‘swimming pool’ anchorage – very aptly named for the beautiful azure water due to the sandy bottom. This is truly a stunning spot surrounded by reef, small palm islands and shallow sandy patches. The colour changes due to the depth of water was fascinating - from deep blue to very clear light, light blue. After lunch we prepared the dingy for a trip ashore to the island ahead of us – on arrival the ‘owner’ was frustrated that we could not speak Spanish, but from what we could understand the island was private and there would be a charge to come ashore!! All very contradictory to the info we have from the pilot book – anyway we didn’t find the a welcoming experience – said adios and came straight back to the boat. In the late afternoon we managed to catch Paul and Lynn from Jalan Jalan and got our Open CPN charts working. The wind generator did not produce any juice during the night – so thats important to get sorted out!
The next day we moved a long way – half a mile to the Hot Tub anchorage, what a truly beautiful spot for a fully day in Kuna Yala paradise. The next morning, in the calm water here James worked on rewiring the external plug for the wind generator – it is vital that we get this important power generator piece of kit working again constantly again. Whilst outside working he saw ‘official looking’ Kuna boat coming around so we quickly upped the anchor and moved on by midday.
After a lovely short sail, with everything up we headed to the central Holandes Cays. The pilot book says that only experienced reef explorers should enter these areas – we felt confident with both our chart plotter and the Open CPN charts and if all went too shallow we could lift the keel. We motored very gingerly following waypoints into the anchorage – absolutely stunning stuff – we were anchored right in the middle of the outer reef. The calm weather made this just perfect conditions. We enjoyed another day in splendid isolation in the Central Holandes Cay. The natural beauty above and below the water is absolutely stunning. The snorkelling was superb and truly amazing – I was in my own aquarium – so many different size and colourful fish all around me in gin clear water. By Monday 9th, the weather had changed - absolutely no wind, so its still and calm under clear blue skies – a real pinch yourself moment- am I dreaming or am I really here!
I made some fresh Moroccan bread for lunch and with the light above us for the excellent visibility we needed to more on- we motored out of the Central Holandes Cay and just 5 miles further we anchored in the West Lemon Cays for the evening. This is a beautiful spot, with many well protected anchorages - therefore it was very crowded with about 25 other yachts.
We were up early and off to the nearest mainland Customs and Immigration office at Porvenir to finally do our official check-into the country of Panama. As we entered we waved to Muck as they were on their way out – heading west. I had a problem with the SSB this morning in the middle of trying to contact a few yachts for information at the 8.30am San Blas Connection net. We saw 2 yachts hard up on the reef and terminally damaged off Sail Rock at the entrance here - poor navigation here can really end the dream. We had to do a ‘Gibraltar’ here, and needed to walk across the airstrip from the basic Hotel to get to the office buildings. There were absolutely useful facilities here – no ATM, no internet and no food shops – no services for incoming yachts what so ever, just officials to take our money – which had to be cash only! Panama is a very expensive stop for us. We handed over $400- for 2 personal visas($100 each)valid for 12 months and a 12 month cruising permit($200)for the boat.
So farewell to the San Blas for now, at about 11am – no daytime wind had kicked in so sadly we motored west all day in light winds – the first time we have had to motor all day this season.