James with Embera young people

FRI 20 - We were up early to lock up the boat to leave her for 2 days and 1 night - a 1st night off the boat since Ocotber last year. We caught the 7.30am local bus from Portobelo towards Colon, into the Sabinites Shopping Mall. We had breakfast, did some water and fresh fruit shopping at the large REY supermarket before getting the arranged taxi for a short 15 minutes ride to the river meeting point. At about 10.30am, at the river a large wooden motorised canoe with 2 local Embera men met us and we were introduce to our English speaking guide Marco. They fitted us out with lifejackets and we headed off up the river. Approx 20 mins later we turned off the main river and headed up a narrow mangrove pass to enter the village.

Wow! ahead of us were many large and small traditional thatched huts. We entered via a walk along the long wharf, and were greeted by many young and older ladies dressed in traditional clothing and the men playing various drums, flutes and basic musical instruments - it felt like a royal arrival! We were met by Marco our English speaking guide and welcomed to the village. The traditional ceremonial dress for the ladies was a bright flower print wraparound skirt sarong and an intricate breast covering beaded backless top. Some of these tops were covered with small Panamanian and American 25cent coins, and some were fully beaded and edged with shells. The ladies had smelted coin drop earrings of intricate designs. The younger girls of under puberty age wore beautifully beaded multiple necklaces. A hibiscus flower head garland highlighted their beautiful long dark hair and bright eyes. The men were bare chested and all had vibrant beaded short skirts with geometrical patterns, worn over a single wide modesty loincloth covering their penis and backside, leaving nothing exposed - but only just. All the men had well-toned bodies and were very attractive with their olive skins. The young boys wore just the single coloured cotton loincloths from their hips on a string. We did not see anyone wearing any type of footwear on anyone in the community. Most of the men, boys ,ladies and young girls had some form of tattoos - we were assured that these were not permanent - just a natural plant dye was used and would fade away in time.

Marco showed to our overnight accommodation - a large communal 1st floor, opensided traditional wooden and thatched casa, where our beds had been prepared all covered with large mosquito screens. We had plenty of room and a central table and bench chairs. We also soon realised that we shared this accommodation with a beautiful Toucan bird - he was very welcoming and wanted to eat our fruit! After a look around the handcraft stalls on the ground floor on this casa we were served lunch. All our meals were served in another communal large hut with an open fire. Lunch was freshly prepared Tilapia fish fillets with fried plantain, and the fruit we had bought with us was served as a fruit platter served on banana leaves. We did not eat with any of the families, but served by the cook and her daughter.

After lunch we were invited to join the afternoon excursion for a boat ride to Lake Gautan for an afternoon swim. The ½ hour boat ride gave us a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside - all very lush and very similar to northern NSW hinterland. We had been joined on the river trip with about 6 of the children and 4 adults. As soon as we arrived and secured the canoe up to the shore the kids were off swimming and exploring. They had a few snorkels and fins and began collecting sea snails - we asked what that was all about - apparently they made a delicious soup with these snails. Us gringos were the only ones to wear swimsuits , everyone else just swam in their sarongs and for the men the beaded skirts and loincloths. The swimming area was very protected with a few rocks and shoals. The fresh water in the lake was cool and very enjoyable and not at all brackish. After an hour or so, when the kids had had enough playing and collecting we headed back to the village.

After a well earned afternoon nap we showered in cold fresh water shower in a well build private shower block, and enjoyed strolling around the village. This community group of Embera indigenous group, purchased these 7 acres and moved from their tribal grounds in the north of Panama in the Darian region to set up this village 8 years ago. Currently there are 12 family groups, a total of 52 people with old and young alike with the youngest 2 babies 2 and 3 month old - a truly lovely sight to see. The hillside village was set up around a very large communal ground level open-sided hut with an earth floor. This activities hut, constructed with a tall cone thatched roof and beach seating all around the circular boarders. All the musical instruments were on a wooden bench and one area was a makeshift nursery area for the 2 babies and the very little ones. The surrounding well keep grassed areas, provided a perfect games playing area. A closeby 1st floor above ground hut - its purpose was as a eating/cooking hut. Our accommodation casa and craft stalls were on the adjacent side of the communal activities hut. We watched on as the young boys and girls up to approx 8years old we played football and marbles together in the afternoon. The little ones played happily together in and around the activities hut with lots of fun and laughter. Some enjoyed playing the drums and musical instruments. All this freedom, laughter and happiness was truly lovely to see and experience. All around the benches in the shade the older girls and ladies sat chatting and making their woven crafts and some of the men sat carving and chatting with their wives or together with other men. The 2 babies were so lovingly cared for by their Mums. There was a sheet hammock set up in the large communal central hut where they were breast fed, rocked in the hammock and constantly attended to. On our walk around we peaked into the family huts, found the small school room and found the laundry areas with a very ingenious wooden wringer setup by the concrete clothes washing stalls.

Just on dark we headed again over to the cooking/eating hut for dinner - a very tasty meal of Tilapia fish with red beans and rice. We needed to eat in the early evening light as there is no electricity for lighting up any of the huts or outside areas.

After dinner we totally covered ourselves with mosquito spray and dressed in long trousers and long shirts and with our torches and head lamps ready for our evening adventure - crocodile spotting. Again a few of the young boys and 1 on the young girls, together with Marco our guide and a few of the other men set off. We went out to the main river and slid along for about 15 minutes before heading into the riverside mangroves. The kids and Marco shone their bright torches into the shallows looking to the red eyes of the crocs - sure enough they shortly spotted the bright eyes among the many fire flies and we slow eased in guided by the torch light. Then in a very quick action the midsize croc was caught and held up and shown for us all to see - fantastic. After all our oos and ahhrs and photos the croc was released over the side and we were off exploring with the torches again. We 'caught' a 2nd crocs - this time a good size 2 footer which we could touch and closely examine, a great up-close local wildlife experience. The young girl was a very good spotter, and after a short time they landed a 3rd small croc. We enjoyed this excursion very much and the kids we also as excited as us too.

We headed home to our casa for the night - it was about 8pm and they had lit our accommodation with 2 oil lamp and it was very quiet, calm and atmospheric. Sadly we had not bought any playing cards, books or an evening tipple to sit up and enjoy late into the evening - so it was early to bed, after a very interesting, eventful and enjoyable day.


SAT 21 - We woke with the early morning singing of the birds and chickens. About 7am the whole community got on with their daily activities. All the girls and ladies were out with the rakes on the grass areas clearing away any fallen leaves. The young boys were removing this combustible rubbish. Some of the men were in the storage area dealing with the refilling of the outboard motors etc. It was a hive of activity and we noticed that there was a formal work list and even the little kids were recording their names and jobs complete. Later Marco informed us that everyone - young and old, are paid by the chief according to their contribution to the communal jobs, and specialist jobs - so all very well organised.

After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and pancakes we sat chatting with Marco. This whole communities only income is from tourism ie day and short-stay visitors and the selling of their handcrafts - so ensuring the experience is an informed authentic experiences is key to their success. Marco and his sister have represented the Embera people at international events in London and Italy and the elders are in close communication with the tourism authorities in the Panamanian Government. Marcos eldest brother received a scholarship to study at hotel school in Switzerland and is currently working for the Department of Tourist in Panama City. Marcos sister - Elizabeth is currently studying Business Administration and English in Panama City - these people are keen to develop in a responsible and sustainable way to maintain their culture and existence. We found all the people open and friendly - even though we could not communicate either in Spanish of their local Embera dialect.

Later in the morning we had a tour of the grounds of the village with Macro and one of the older men who role is the agriculturalist. This man was responsible for all the correct planning of the trees for food and medical purposes. Many of the plants and trees were brought with them from the Darian region. We had a very informative walk and talk session on the herbal medicines available from special trees and plans, and why they had introduced specific trees and fruits. We saw many pineapples and plantains successful planted. The only animals were chickens and 2 newly introduced ducks. We visited the school room, at the present time only used by 8 children with a teacher coming in daily Monday to Friday from Colon to teach them. At highschool age the children have to leave the village and go into Colon to attend school. Marco was very proud of their education set-up. What a great place to lean in an opensided hut with lecture type chairs and a blackboard and a few books.

By late morning it was time for a fishing trip - again some of the younger kids accompanied us. We headed out into a central part of Lake Gatuon and one of the men - usually the canoe driver went diving with a snorkel, mask and spear gun. The water is fresh in the lake so we were mainly expecting him to get the American introduced freshwater fish Tilapia, but he got a big haul of 6 or more good size fish and a few salt water fish that had swam through the canal lock system into the lake. On the way back to the village we did some bird and monkey spotting. In a specific area, high up in the trees were some spider monkeys. One swung his way right down to close to the boat and put on a wonderful skilful display - we suspect that we is regularly fed by the locals to be so familiar with visitors - but on this occasion he was not fed. Again high up in the trees we saw another type of monkey - but this one was not putting an act for the tourists today!

Because we had caught a good load of fish we thought it would be fish again for lunch - but we had a very tasty pork meal with rice and panfried plantain - very tasty and enjoyable. A French couple arrived for their 2 day,1 night excursion after we had finished lunch and it was good to chat with them about their travels in Panama and Costa Rica. With everyone settled into their usual afternoon activities - the little kids playing with the musical instruments, the teenagers chatting and reading school books, the men resting in the hammocks in their huts and the women chatting and weaving - James took a short nap and I staying playing and chatting with Elizabeth - Marcos sister and playing with the children.


By mid afternoon all the older men and women, all the teenagers and even the little ones entertained us with some traditional music and dancing - very enjoyable to watch, enjoy and listen. The cook lady prepared us some fresh lemongrass tea and she had baked some banana bread - traditionally prepared in wrapped banana leaf - both the tea and cake was refreshing and tasty indeed. Sadly our time came to leave at about 4pm. Marcos father, together with more of the men had loaded the large wooden canoe with diesel cans to be refuelled and a few other bits and pieces and he took us to met up with our taxi again at the road - back into the real world! We made a REY supermarket for some food shopping before catching the local bus back to Portobelo , making it home just before dark -the end of two great days and a wonderful enlightening experience.