IMAGE – various Isla Mujeres images

Welcome to Mexican bureaucracy – they love their multi-coloured stamps on SO many pieces of paper.
Thursday 2nd February 2017 - our actual ‘arrival’ day in Mexico, but by the time we arrived into the anchorage in Isla Mujeres it was too late in the day to start our check-in – so just chilled out checking out our new surroundings in this busy anchorage. It was lovely to take a swim off the back of the boat – the 1st time for ages. We had an early night – from my research it could be a long, hot day tomorrow dealing with Mexican officials for our ‘official’ arrival.
Friday 3rd February - At approx. 9am we found the town dingy dock by following 2 other dinghies in from the anchorage – only to discover we were all headed for the same place – the Port Captains Office - as we were all new arrivals and checking-in. In total 4 boats checked-in today.
I was all prepared with multiple photocopies of all our documentation, and had done loads of internet research and pre-reading into the self check-in process. Many sailors employ an agent to do their check-in documentation and pay a hefty price for this service. Our view has always been to do our own arrival and departure formalities ourselves wherever possible – so far in all our years of sailing we have only used the services of an agent in Lebanon, Syrian and Israel when we sailed there in 2010. Doing the check-in ourselves we have always found that you get a realistic impression into how the country works – indeed that is why were are travelling - to interact with the locals and see these countries for ourselves.
The 1st official spoke good English and was very friendly and helpful – he completed 2 requirements - Port Police and Health. He took our temperature with a digital thermometer and asked and recorded our answers regarding our general health, and what countries we had recently visited. He spoke about the Ebola virus and said something about a fumigation certificate for the boat… then said next time….. that could have been interesting! He charged us 50 pesos – but we only had US$ at this stage – so $US2 - looking back I think this was not an official charge – just his tip!
We had our exit clearance certificate from the USA – so no problem – but the American couple with their young 3rd year old daughter also checking in today at the same time as us did not have this documentation……could be a problem for them! All good – we got 2 multi-coloured stamps – it appears that the Mexican official like their stamps!
Next stop was the exchange office to stock up on local currency. Exchanging cash was not a problem as this is very much a tourist island for Americans coming over from Cancun on the ferry for the day. $1 US = approx 20 pesos - £1 = approx 24 pesos. We need to keep our US$ cash for Honduras, Belize & Guatemala – so exchanged British £.
Now to the Immigration office – again a very helpful man with understandable English – we asked for the maximum visa of 3 months stay and were issued it no problem – cost 500 pesos each. The payment needed to be made at the nearby HSBC Bank, and then back to his office with the payment receipt for the stamp in our passport and his stamp on our growing stack of stamped paperwork. I like this official payment at the bank system – it feels more official and less open to cash just being paid to staff in the office – an less tips. We really don’t know why this guy is not located in the Port Office – officialdom – all this back and forth!
Next back to the Port Captains office – for Agriculture clearance. I had read that sometimes the officer will want to actually visit the boat and inspect the fresh and dry food we have onboard – so I was a bit apprehensive about this. This man in an official uniform sat at a deck out in the lobby area did not speak or ask any questions about what food was onboard! – just looked through our pile of paperwork like he didn’t have a clue and gave us another stamp.
Back to the Port Officer behind the glassed-in counter. He informed us that Customs was the next requirement and that the lady would come to the office at 1pm and we should leave now and return later! This small office was getting crowded now with 4 boats and their crews of different nationalities all checking-in – we saw it as a good opportunity to meet some new sailors and have a chat – but the officials didn’t want us hanging around as a group.
We made use of the time to find the tourist information office to get a map and some general info and also to find out about internet service. Tourist info OK – but the only internet shop had an open sign…. but was closed! We wandered the main street – very busy with restaurants and many tourist tat shops. The ferry terminal was very busy with the comings and goings of day-trippers from Cancun, and the street was busy with golf carts, taxis and mopeds.
We found a shady bench for a tortilla snack lunch from one of the many street venders and some people watching time. Our 1st impression was that Isla Mujeres was an older style resort- with friendly locals and very popular with American and Canadian tourists. We walked to the northern beach – full on tourists swimming in beautiful clear water and catching the rays.
All 4 crews arrived at the Port Police Office at 1pm – but no sign of the Customs lady… so we all sat, stood and waited in the hot – no air-con small lobby. The lady arrived at about 2pm – not dressed in any uniform and with her school child in toe! – but she was not be to messed with – she clearly had authority. She looked through our stack of paperwork and refused to speak English with me…. although she spoke good English later to several others! The paper shuffle continued…. after her approval had been given the Port Officer produced another fee form – 540pesos to be deposited at the bank and then return with the receipt. I queried this fee and asked for the breakdown – 270P was a customs tonnage fee for boats up to 20 tons and 270P was apparently an anchoring fee! This anchoring fee was a new one on me as I had never read anything about it – when asked they said if we were in a marina you did not pay this – just in the anchorage at it was a designated National Park area! We think it was just another fee to obtain money from yachts – but not a ‘tip’ as it had to be paid into the Bank and an official receipt obtained.
So off to the bank – thankfully just a sort walk away on the main street, and then back to the Port Office – each of the 4 yacht having to do the same routine – back and forth. When we returned and handed in our receipt from the Bank, I requested a receipt from the Port Office – I don’t think they were happy with me… but hey.
Now the customs lady authorised the final stamp, I was given our pile of stamped papers and then she announced that she needed to visit each yacht… this is a new one… not mentioned in any of the info I had pre-read! James and 2 of the other skippers left in their dinghies – the Customs lady riding with James, whilst I was required to stay in the office. Apparently when we came to our boat she wanted to see our registration number displayed officially inside the boat! As a British registered yacht we are not required to display our Small Ship Registration number or hull number– so after some frustration she told James to take down our Q flag and one of the other skippers took her off to his boat. She did not even enter the boat- just stayed sitting in the cockpit – but did mention several times to James that her ferry fare needed to be paid – ie tip. She was out of luck as I was still in the Port Captains office with all our cash!
Process complete…… well not quite – we are still required to go to the Maritime Office in Cancun to obtain a TIP – and 10 year Temporary Importation Permit. This Permit is required for all yachts staying over 7 days in Mexican waters - just another fee to obtain money for the government from boaters. There was an incident a few years ago when government officials were sent to every marina and anchorage in Mexico to confirm and sight this TIP – several boats did not have the correct documentation and were impounded!! We will need to go to Cancun on the ferry on Tuesday 7th (as Monday is a Public Holiday for Constitution Day) to show all our already stamped paperwork and pay a fee – apparently $US only cash will be accepted.
Our arrival was now nearly official – we had paid all the fees so far, received all our multi-coloured stamped documents – we were free to set forth and enjoy our stay.
Tuesday 7th February - we were up early and left the boat just after the morning VHF net to get the ferry across to Cancun to complete our check-in. Thankfully there is a dingy dock that everyone can use near the Port Captains office here in Isla Mujeres – close to town and the main ferry dock etc. The ferry is 300p return for foreigners – 146p for locals!
The Port Captains office in Cancun was just a short walk from the terminal – and a much more professional set-up that on Isla Mujeres – with all the various departments all in the one air-conditioned building with each officer in uniform behind their specific desk. Our lady officer checked our paperwork and said we still need some photocopies! –thankfully this could be done at a nearby hotel for just 5pesos per page. We met the guys from one of the French boats also trying to complete their check-in and buy their TIP- they also needed photocopies AND did not have their engine serial numbers – so the skipper had to return back to Isla Mujeres to get the info – what a mess-up for them. I was prepared with all the info and documents we needed, as I had done my research, and after returning with the extra photocopies everything was completed – after the $60US payment of course!
Friday 10th March – CHECK-OUT DAY. We went to the Port Captains office – more fresh photocopies of our Crew List and passports were required (thankfully I had them ready) – I don’t understand why they didn’t use the ones they stamped on our arrival! To obtain our official departure document –Zarpe – we needed to make a 270 peso payment at the Bank and return to the office with the receipt. On our return with the receipt the officer informed us that the Port Captain would be busy for the next hour or so – go away and come back later – but we had to have the Zarpe to take to the Immigration office to get our exit stamp in our passports – hopefully we can get it all done today as there is an additional overtime charge on the weekends.
Anyway we went and did some food shopping to fill in the time as I was planning on cooking some passage meals this afternoon. Thankfully when we returned to the Port Office our exit paper was ready, we could go to the Immigration Office to have our passports dated stamped our - all completed!
Our total payment to the Mexican government for the privilege of visiting their country was approx. £130 a lot less expensive than either the Bahamas or Panama and more enjoyable. We would recommend visiting Isla Mujeres to other sailors and would return.
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NOW SETTLED INTO THE CRUISING COMMUNITY - TIME FLIES WHEN YOU ARE HAVING FUN.
WE EVENTUALLY STAYED 5 WEEKS IN MEXICO- ENJOYED IT VERY MUCH INDEED AND WOULD RETURN.
Saturday 4 – James formally introduced us on the daily VHF morning net – so we are now officially part of the fleet here in Isla Mujeres, and hope to meet some of the other boats and crews out and about whilst around the island and at a few of the loosely arranged social events and evenings out. After lunch we ventured into town to find somewhere to get on the internet. Finally the only place we could find was as the Backpacker Hostel. Unfortunately James couldn’t get access – but I managed to get all my emails and monthly banking done – but the Skype call to Mum was a disaster – hopefully I can try again tomorrow from another location.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------We knew that a fellow OCC British yacht ‘Beyzano’ was in a nearby marina – so during he few few days of our arrival we went to say hi to Rob and Rhian. The last time we met up with them as in Trinidad 2 years ago, and they had just completed the OCC rally in the Western Caribbean with 2 other yachts (Balance and Suzie Too) we have since met. Their marina El Milagro is a lovely setup – too lovely as they have now been there 6 weeks, and finding it hard to leave from their sail to Cuba. We had a beer and a chat about Guatemala, Honduras and Belize - time got away and before we knew it it was 6pm and we headed back to the boat in the dark.
Beyzano invited us to join in their weekly Sunday afternoon Mexican Train dominos session – very enjoyable and a good chance to meet some of the others staying in the marina. Over our 5 week stay Sunday afternoon dominos became a regular feature of our weekly activities.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------On Tuesday and Friday evenings the cruising community meet for BYO early evening sundowners on the dock beside ‘Tropical Fun’ one of the permanent boats at Marina Oscars. We enjoyed this opportunity to chat with some of our fellow sailors from all over the world – hear their stories and share info etc.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Our daily morning routine commences with breakfast whilst listening to the local cruisers VHF net at 8.15am - run by Tim & Reba on ‘Tropical Fun’ and then to Chris Parker for the SSB weather at 8.30am till about 9am.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------CANCUN
Over the 6 weeks we were in Mexico we had 2 visits to Cancun – THE tourist town of the Yucatan. It really is a city with a split personality. In the Cancun late 1960s the Mexican government began to actively search for a pristine beach location to develop for tourism. Computer- assisted studies selected Cancun as the NO.1 location – the rest is history! This tiny Mayan fishing village and uninhabited island of Cancun is now a multimillion dollar modern beach resort. The ‘Zone Hotelera’ is resort madness - curved around a spectacular L-shaped sandy spit - very Las Vegas like with SO many huge hotels, bars, restaurants etc. This area is packed with mainly American & Canadian all-inclusive tourists, who stick to this area for all their day-play and evening bars and nightclubs. Many do visit Isla Mujeres and some of the Mayan sights on organised day trips.
This area provided heaps of employment for the locals which a good thing, and they all look very smart in the work uniforms.
The actual city itself is ‘real world’ Mexico style. It is busy, but organised with lots of minibuses zooming around the city in all directions. The ADO central bus station is a lively hub – it is clean and well organised for a Latin country – compared with the dirt and rubbish and chaos we experienced in Panama. You can get just about everything you need in Cancun, and everyone is helpful and friendly. Our Spanish language skills are slowly improving.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- LIFE AT ANCHOR
We have experienced some interesting weather and boater interaction in the crowded anchorage during our stay. The trades blow North East MOST of the time, ensuring a safe, protected anchorage. – but here we have had days of 15+ from the south, and 30+ north and northwest – which makes the main anchorage a wild mess. In general its lovely out in the anchorage, its amazing watching all the weather fronts pass through and our many changes in directions.
Thursday 16 – overnight the wind changed again now coming from the north – this made our French/Canadian neighbour ‘Tiloup’ far too close. From 4.30am James & I both sat up in our cockpit, but our neighbour decided that he didn’t have a problem and went back to bed! At 7.15am James had had enough and woke the French man and told him, as it was now daylight it was time he moved…. He was so arrogant and said it was not possible as his wife was still sleeping!! Enough said – he moved and we felt much safer far away from him.
Friday 17 – At 7am, just on daybreak, our Dutch neighbour was moving on and because he was too close from the very beginning, and we had now all changed direction causing his chain to be right under our boat… anyway we put all our fenders out and motored slowly forward on our chain so he could leave safely – at least he was thankfully of our assistance and had a much better attitude than our French/Canadian neighbour from the previous day!
There were a few days when the weather was so bad we didn’t venture off the boat due to the strong winds and swell – and a very wet ding ride to get anywhere. Even with a 2nd anchor out it was a bit stressful and most nights we were both up several times checking that all was OK. By the time the next big north blow was forecast we had had enough of troublesome neighbours and the stress of the main anchorage so we upped our anchor AND our keel and moved into the shallow nearby Lagoon Makax. We were much happier there and finished up staying there for the rest of our stay. Just a few other boats came into the Lagoon for protection during the blow, and every other morning on the VHF net there was a report from boats dragging in the main anchorage.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------LOVELY LITTLE ISLA
We have become very familiar with this little island of powdery white beaches and swinging palm trees– just 5 miles long and ½ mile wide in the Quintana Roo region of Mexico. Isla Mujeres is located just 4.5 nautical miles north northeast of Cancun across the Yucatan channel. There is a rundown airstrip, but no plane service. The hydrofoil tourist ferry beings 100’s of day-trippers from Cancun, travelling at a speed of up to 32 knots. The comfortable airline seats and large TV screens provide entertainment for the short 30min ride.
Isla Mujeres is so named due to the numerous terracotta female idles found in the Maya temples and shrines by the 1st explorers– sadly these are now just ruins at the south tip of island. The far north of the island has the best beach area and the most expensive and upmarket accommodation – but not a patch on Cancun. The small town still has a village feel with narrow streets – now overrun with tourist tat and bars and restaurants. The central plaza is still the hub of the town with the main Catholic Church, street vendors selling freshly squeezed juices, and shady meeting place for the young and old. The local kids play basketball every afternoon after school and a week late afternoon/evening arts and crafts market is held here. We like the feel of the town, though we didn’t frequent any of the tourist bars and restaurants or evening discos.
We felt very safe and comfortable here in Mexico. Security of ourselves, the dingy and our boat did not seem to be a problem. Theft is apparently not a problem here, and many of the Mexican homes did not appear to be locked up or have security fences or bars on their windows – unlike most of the eastern Caribbean counties we have previously visited. The locals were very open, helpful and friendly. They were hard-working and appeared to follow their religious beliefs throughout their everyday lives. This has been our 1st visit to Mexico – we enjoyed it very much and would return if the opportunity arose and would recommend it to others.