We left Port Orly for the Banks Islands to arrive at Gaua in the late afternoon. We had a fast run across to the island and anchored off a black sand beach in Lakona Bay off the village of Pweteput The anchorage was very swelly on the first night and the next morning we headed into the village. The swell was still very big and we let the four people on Harmonie go in first. We waited for them to get through the narrow gap and carry their boat up the sand. Unfortunately as we waited a rogue wave broke right on top of us and swept us out of the dinghy and onto the rocks. Fortunately we were able to retrieve our waterproof bag with the camera, and the dinghy itself. So somewhat to the amusement of the villagers we arrived rather wet, but just a bit scratched and bruised. The village is a traditional Kastom village. We met with chief Johnstar and his wife, Susan, who showed us around the village. The two young visitors with Harmonie went off to climb the volcano with a local guide. There is a classic crater lake at the top, but it is a very steep and hot 3 hour climb up and then down again. We decided to tour the villagers gardens instead. Johnstar had recently rebuilt his house further back from the village and higher up to avoid floods. Around the house they had planted a lovely garden with ornamental plants as well as edible plants. He proudly showed us his robes, those of a high chief. We duly took photos of him in them both front and rear.

We also visited the neighbouring village and met Chief Robinson there who showed us an amazing Kastom house. the house is flanked by tree fern sculptures depicting various gods and spirits. Whilst inside there are more sculptures and carved heads. He told us that the house had been built originally by his grandfather and he maintained it to teach the young people about Kastom. There were stone carvings as well as tree fern ones, and some were obviously of great age. It was a privilege to see them in a natural setting rather than in a museum.

During our first night there a local boat had broken adrift and got a few holes off the reef. Luckily we were able to give them some fibreglass to repair the many holes in the boat.

The highlight of the visit was watching the local women perform water music. The villagers had created a pool by the village by damming the river and the women climbed down to create the most amazing music. Unlike the group at the resort these were just local women in their ordinary clothes making the most amazing music from slapping the water. They produced a wider variety of pitch and tone than the ones we saw in Oyster Island.

The villagers here welcome visitors. When you arrive the chiefs come out in their dugout canoes and are keen to invite you ashore. The canoes take many months to build since they are carved out of trees with adzes, and then an outrigger is lashed on to give them greater stability when crossing reefs. By contrast we were told a house only takes a few weeks to build. The people are shy but are keen to show you how they live and explain their way of life and their customs (Kastom). When we get to Luganville again or Port Vila we will put up a series of photos showing them. In the meantime we can only show one photo per entry.