We've been back in NZ over two weeks now. As we approached Opua we were approached by the NZ customs high speed launch, Hawk. They were very cheerful and asked us if we were carrying any firearms or live animals. We told them we weren't, and then we all took pictures of each other. A naval ship also shadowed us as we approached. We later heard that quite a few boats were boarded on their way in, and that the navy helped one boat that was helping them with their engine.

Customs at the dock was not as friendly as last year. They had trainees, and were quite officious. Quite a few sarcastic remarks, and they even confiscated the meal we were about to eat which was a problem since the only cafe at the marina had closed. Our meal and anything French seem to be the main "eco threats" that they defend New Zealand against. Their attitude was on a par most countries' custom officers. Probably our expectations were too high, but it was interesting that they were the least friendly of the Pacific border officials on this tour.

Since Opua is a small place we let our feelings be known, and the following day, a welcome pack appeared in our cockpit. Customs had forgotten to give us one in their zeal.

We hadn't really appreciated last year how many boats arrive at Opua, since last year arrived earlier and left earlier. The first influx was the ICA boats, mostly Kiwis. We arrived just before them which partly explains the trainees etc. They fairly quickly disperse to their homes after a few arrival parties. Then the atmosphere changes again with lots of North Europeans, Swedes and Dutch boats in particular arriving, and then finally American boats with a smattering of UK boats. The overseas boats have mostly come from Tonga, having crossed Panama etc at the beginning of the year.

Our stay was delayed because we wanted to replace our anchor windlass before moving on. A new one was sourced in Italy, the only make which fitted our existing space without major adaptation. It arrived highly efficiently in 6 days from our order, but took a little longer to fit, mostly due to the influx of boats. Fitting it required quite a bit of heavy drilling etc since it is mounted on a high tensile stainless steel plate. Anyway we now have a very swishy and efficient designer windlass which works!

We spent some time touring around Opua, just soaking up the delights of being able to buy fresh food. Fresh asparagus at the KeriKeri farmers market, any green vegetables you could want - mostly locally grown. High quality meat etc etc. We also visited Omata estate, the home of one of the couples we had met this year. Colin and Marion own a beautiful waterfront estate, set in woodland with a vineyard which produces high quality wine. The woodland walks were quite reminiscent of our place in Cornwall, but they had the better sea views.

Finally, after numerous parties and other social occasions organised by the indefatigable John of Windflower we set sail south for Gulf Harbour, planning a day stop in the bay of islands en route.