It's easy when you see it to believe that the Great Wall of China can be seen from space. Apparently it's yet another urban myth, even Chinese spacemen have found it difficult to spot.

Notwithstanding the myths, the sight of the wall snaking its way along the ridges and peaks of the mountains that stand to the North of Beijing has to be one of the most awe inspiring on earth.

We left Beijing heading for the Ming tombs, large chambers and sarcophagi, with a huge statue of the Wanli emperor. He started planning his tomb at the age of 19. The setting is magnificent with the snowy mountains beyond. From there we drove through narrow mountain roads towards Mutianyu. The road was often reduced to one icy lane by the piles of snow along the road. The villages are in sharp contrast to the malls of Beijing. Houses are single storey, rough brick. The streets are narrow and people congregate in groups selling roast potatoes over braziers in areas where the snow had been cleared. Everywhere there are large piles of wood, presumably for heating, but strangely in the subzero temperatures little evidence of woodsmoke. Outside of Shanghai and Beijing most buildings, shops and factories, are poorly heated if at all. Large curtains drape over doors to keep indoors what heat there is.

We stopped at a Jade factory for the obligatory shopping en route. Unlike many of the shops which have a small demonstration facility this was a genuine factory in a village which seemed to consist of nothing but jade factories. The simple kilns were woodfired and it was difficult to believe that using the diamond drills powered by antiquated motors and belts that such exquisite jewelry can be produced. Jackie succumbed to temptation buying a beautiful jade bracelet. This means that wherever we go Chinese hotel receptionists, guides and jade sellers want to know the price she paid for it. All agree thankfully that it is good quality.

Most tourists visit the wall at Badaling, Mutianyu being further out of Beijing. Badaling is notoriously touristy, but accessible by expressway. Mutianya is in a gorgeous mountain setting, reputedly best seen in spring when the trees are in life. However, in winter swathed in snow the mountains and the wall have a glory of their own. From the car park you make a steep climb through serried ranks of souvenir sellers to a point where a choice has to be made. Keep climbing up a narrow icy path, take a cable car or a chair lift. With the chair lift you have the option of a return on a toboggan slide. Unsurprisingly, we took the cable car. There were few people there, and we saw no one climbing or taking the chair lift. Once at the top you have a further climb to the wall itself. Suddenly we were alone - only a few workmen in the distance, highlighted in their red jackets,about a mile on clearing snow from the path along the top of the wall. It's hard work walking the wall - it snakes and bends, there are steep drops and climbs in each direction. We walked in both directions to pick up the views. The skies were clear and the sun shone brightly, reflecting on the snow. It was easy to imagine the emperor's troops patrolling the wall, and difficult to comprehend how they could supply troops along the wall. In fact, the wall, like most walls in history was a statement of failure. The emperors were not able to hold back the threat of the horsemen from the North.

Eventually we descended through the increasingly desperate sellers of trinkets and t-shirts to our car and the long return to Beijing.

A memorable day.