The weather in the Maskelynes was not the best. Strong winds and quite a few rain showers. As the wind died we headed North. We had originally hoped to visit Asenvari, but time was now not on our side. Instead we decided to head for a small island on the North East corner of Malekula called Wala. We headed into the shore going between Rano and Wala and found two Australian yachts anchored there. An islander called George came out in a dugout and told us where we must anchor since a cruise ship was visiting tomorrow, and offered to show us all around the island, prior to their visit. The island is outstanding. You walk through verdant forest to site after site of areas built for dancing and sacrifices. At the periphery a few areas seem to be more modern designed with tourists in mind, but in the centre the sites are ancient megalithic structures. Islanders in the past brought stones inland from the beaches and constructed pig enclosures, houses for boys awaiting circumcision, and altars from the large stones on the shore. The construction clearly took place quite a few centuries ago. The large sites of stone circles radiate around large banyan trees, making an unforgettable spectacle.

The small village was getting ready for the arrival of a cruise ship. Beaches were being raked, and shelters erected. It's an attractive village. We bought bread from the bakery, a wood fired oven made from old fuel drums. The houses and gardens are neat. The Presbyterian church was being rebuilt with concrete building blocks made on the island, all the other buildings are wood and copra. However, even that building was dwarfed by a massive catholic church across on the mainland. Not so much a church as a palace. Like many of the islands fervent Christianity has been merged onto the older Kastom cultures, with the priests of the new religion demanding their customary high tariffs, (donations and tithes) for entry into the kingdom of heaven. Strange how the poorer the people the more is demanded of them by their priests.

The next morning 7.00 am prompt a massive cruise ship hoved into sight and dropped anchor. The quiet island was transformed into a hub of activity. Tenders from the cruise ship shot back and forth, carrying hundreds of Australian tourists. Local boats from the mainland and the other islands whizzed across, carrying dancers, salespeople,and assistants all looking for a spot of Australian gold.

We hoisted the anchor and sneaked away leaving the villagers to their once a month transformation, while we headed north to Luganville.