About 50 miles East of Luganville is the island of Maewo. Maewo and Ambae its neighbouring islands were the original Bali Hai of the Michener novel, South Pacific. On the rare days when the mist cleared the soldiers on the main island of Santo could see the volcano superimposed over the island of Ambae and believed that it was the source of beautiful Melanesian girls.

We didn't leave Luganville until just before 11am. First of all we had to renew visas and do the local check in with customs. (Monday was a public holiday.) We hoisted the sail and discovered we had lost a batten pin so a quick repair was called for - this time with locktite. Then one of the ropes tying us to the mooring jammed in a mess of chain and small ropes tied to the mooring buoy. Eventually we headed off and arrived at Ambae mid afternoon, anchoring in what turned out to be a delightful bay in front of a school on the Western side of the island. We left the following morning, immediately snaring a massive wahoo, which sadly broke free as we hooked it with the gaff.

Rounding the point we saw Asanvari to the South, and in the bay a massive superyacht, a ship in reality. A more modest local power catamaran was also there with half a dozen tourists and two yachts. Notwithstanding the white monstrosity, the bay is superb a perfect semicircle with a delightful waterfall to the North and beautiful coral pinnacles to the South.

Arriving at lunchtime Chief Nelson's son Nixon told us we could come ashore to see Kastom dancing and a string band at 2.00 am. The show was for the local boat's customers. The band, four guitars, a banjo and a boom box bass ie a wooden crate with a string attached, were very professional. The kastom dancers were among the best we have seen on the islands, putting to shame many of the dancers at the independence day celebrations. All male in traditional costume, they were both elegant and fearsome. Chief Nelson in red tshirt and baseball hat somewhat incongruously led the chants, pushing the performers to greater levels. The Italians from the super yacht were also there, and it dawned on us that this massive ship with about 20 crew were all there to look after a rather distinguished looking Italian with white hair, a signor Benetton. The boat's name was Tribu. No t-shirts were given away and the generators powerered noisily through the night. We talked with some of the other yachties the following evening about malaria in Vanuatu, and it struck me that what malaria there was in Vanuatu could certainly be wiped out for less than the cost of Tribu.

The following day Sedna arrived with our Australian friends Terry and Chrissie, along with two guests, and we shared a delightful evening meal cooked by the chief's son Nixon. Sedna contributed tuna they had caught, and we contributed chillies and the gift of a frying pan.

The snorkeling and kayaking here has been excellent. Lots of unusual small red fish abound on the drop offs from the reef.

We're planning to return to Luganville probably tomorrow.