The road journey to Nhong Khiaw is about 4 to 5 hours. It feels like a lot longer. Certainly there were some stiff joints when we arrived. The return journey was to be more sedate - river boat.

The four of us hired a narrow boat, along with an American couple who described themselves as travel writers. Our two small rucksacks were dwarfed by the mountains of Gucci luggage they were carrying. They had a problem travelling light they told us

The boat is surprising comfortable.

Boat picture 8 old bus seats are loosely attached to the wooden hull, and although there is not the bumpiness of the road you could hardly describe it as sedate, and in the cool of the early morning we wrap up against the breeze created by the boat



The powerful motor quickly came into its own as we headed downstream. The scenery is spectacular. Long patches of flat water pierce high cliffs on either side of the river. In these sections villagers plant rice on the fertile soil that is exposed in the dry season, creating beautiful sharp colour contrasts.

Periodically the cliffs close in and more fishermen can be seen. In some places generators have been improvised out of wood to provide electricity. Water buffalo graze, small children swim and wave from the shores. We spot some canoeists heading downstream but this part of the river is too fast for large boats.





Our boatman lines up rocks to make a safe passage through the violent rapids and whirlpools. One minute we are tossing and turning through the rapids then we are spit out into calm pools.



It's a long ride down the Nam Ou and then the Mekong, about 5 hours in all but he clearly knows every inch of it.

One of the fiercest parts is where a bridge is being built, part of a hydro scheme. The bridge builders have only left one arch flowing so it's a fast ride, and the lack of concern of the engineers bodes ill for the river dwellers. All down the river people are dependent on the seasonal flow of the river. Once dammed that life will come to an end along with that of our boatman.

Finally we meet the mighty Mekong where large barges carrying timber and coal can be seen powering South.

Eventually we arrive back in Luang Prabang for another night at the Mekong Riverview ready for the next stage of our journey.