The Milford Track is a 55km "great walk" famous for its glorious scenery and its rain. We naively thought that the two might not go together and that we would have a chance of glorious scenery with sunny weather. The truth is that the two do go together, as we were to find out. You can't have the scenery without the rain. Rudyard Kipling described Milford as the eighth wonder of the world in rain.

We decided to go for the luxury option of a 'guided walk. The number of trampers is controlled, 50 'guided' walkers and 40 independent walkers per day. The difference is that guided walkers stay at huts with separate rooms, have their meals made for them, and have facilities like drying rooms in their huts. Most importantly these huts have a generator which means you can have hot showers and light - at least up to 10 pm when it goes off. Independent walkers stay at separate huts dry, and with stoves but that's it. On our trip we still have to carry a daypack with some dry clothes and shoes for the evening, clothes for all weathers - hot, thermals, waterproofs, sunhats etc. and your lunch for the day, but you don't have to carry a sleeping bag, stove or food.

The first day consists of a long coach ride from Queenstown to Te Anau where you take a boat across the lake to the trail head. We were now in real bush country, with no power or other utilities and no habitation apart from the walkers in their huts. Paul Theroux called this area the Pacific's last true wilderness. It was just a short walk to the first lodge, Glade House. The weather was fine (the only time) and after tea we went for a short hour and a half walk around the surrounding bush with one of the guides who pointed out the various trees, shrubs & birds to look out for in the bush. In the evening we had an embarrassing session getting to know our fellow walkers - we had to introduce ourselves and then, in country groups, sing a song - us 6 Brits sang 'Yellow Submarine'. An excellent meal with a few drinks and in bed before the lights went out at 10.

The next day started with dark clouds and heavy rain which proceeded to get heavier. Jackie managed her first swing bridge at the start - and rapidly gained confidence as we had to cross bridge after bridge - it is the only time I have crossed a footbridge which was below a foot of water. We headed along the Clinton river taking in an optional and aptly named "wetlands walk" and wending our way slowly uphill through thick bush with trees dripping with lichen and moss until we emerged into an amazing glacial valley (u shaped) it was originally called the "valley of the perpendicular' Sheer cliffs of up to 4000 feet on either side white with water. Water dropped down vertically, sometimes being blown horizontally across the cliffs. Most of the waterfalls are entirely fed by rainfall. If and when the rain stops the waterfalls stop. They cascade directly down over the cliffs, unable to cut into the hard granite. The effect is quite extraordinary. Water rushed around us down overflowing rivers. Towards the end we were having to wade up to our knees across swollen streams. Although we all left between 8.30 and 9 a.m. we rapidly spread out and saw few other walkers. We walked and marvelled until about four o clock wet and bedraggled but enthused by the glory of the surroundings we headed into Pomplona Lodge to be greeted by tea, warm rooms and an excellent three course meal. Unfortunately it was far too wet for any decent 'photos - we wish we had brought an underwater camera so that we could record some of the views.

The third day was a long haul up and over the Mackinnon Pass and we had to leave by 7.30 in the morning. We started with dry boots and clothes, thanks to the drying room, but it didn't last for long. It was a tiring walk to the pass, but we were met at the top by one of the guides dispensing hot soup. Unfortunately,due to the non-stop rain we had no views from the top. It was then a short pull up to our lunch stop - it might have been short, but it felt like a pull too far. It was great to have our sandwiches in the dry of the hut - and with a heater going. The steam rising from our bodies when we took off our coats was something to see! Then a long wet trudge down the other side of the pass, but with some glimpses of wonderful views.

As we descended we had been warned by the guides of slippery wooden steps but they had not prepared us for the power and splendour of the Roaring Burn and the Dudleigh falls. The stairway spirals round the aptly named roaring white falls. it's difficult to imagine being closer to a waterfall - you almost feel inside it at times. After a long descent we were suddenly into more level ground and at about 3.00 pm. We were at the Quintin Lodge. We droped our packs, grabbed a cup of tea and despite tired legs and feet, headed off again to the Sutherland Falls!

The Sutherland falls are about 3/4 hour walk away - unfortunately uphill all the way. Fifth highest waterfall in the world and highest in NZ, they were the original reason for the path's construction. The walk is a tough end of the day but well worth it. As you approach the falls you get tantalising glimpses of the majestic setting and the two upper drops - the noise intensifies until it sounds like a large jet taking off. Then you turn a corner and you get hit with a sandblaster of spray -even wearing glasses, my eyes stang from the power of so much water dropping 1904 feet down a vertical cliff edge generating a gale force wind. Rumour has it amongst the younger walkers, substantiated in one of the guide books that you can get behind the fall. No way were we trying that. We returned shattered but exulted to the warmth of the lodge, a great meal and the company of our fellow walkers. Turns out that sadly only about a third had the energy to do the extra walk to the falls.

The largest group of walkers were Australian, followed by Kiwis, then Brits and a couple of Dutch people. No Germans! We noticed that the independent walkers had a higher proportion of young people than our group, which although all ages - seemed to have quite a few people walking the trail for their 60th. The two Dutch people had cycled all the way down the South Island to do the walk only to be hit by a stomach bug on arriving at the track. Many of the Aussies seemed to be in business - in between beers being downed and lots of laughter they talked of clients and deals they had done. The new Zealanders were more mellow - tending to be regular walkers. To our surprise we seemed to be among the speediest of the walkers, always arriving amongst the first half dozen or so, despite photo stops and taking all detours.

The last day of walking of 13 miles was in rain again but we did get a few dry spells and even a hint of sunshine. Yet more stupendous waterfalls and then views of lakes leading into the Sound. At one point the track had collapsed overnight and we had to go up to our hips in water - fortunately only for a short time. Finally with some sadness, wet and rather exhausted but proud of our achievement, we arrived at Sandfly Point where you pick up a ferry to cross the sound to a hotel. We couldn't quite believe that the little ferry could make it, since the water was to our minds a raging torrent. We spoke to the captain who said he came up the river at 2 knots and anticipated returning to Milford at 14 knots. Most of the walkers aboard were oblivious to the perils as he executed a tight turn next to some falls and then charged downstream to Milford where a hotel with luxury of luxuries - a bath in our room and a proper laundry awaited us. Our waterlogged feet were subjected to further soaking, but this time in hot water!

The evening was for celebrations, the award of certificates and the swapping of addresses. Our final day we went on a cruise of the Sound itself. Perhaps the most remarkable part of the trip. As the grey mist rose we could see sheer peaks towering straight out of the sea, dwarfing the pitons of St Lucia. The sides of the sound are high, sheer drops, and large waterfalls cascade down into the sea. The sound is also very narrow in places and winds its way spectacularly out to the open ocean. After the cruise it was time for a long, but spectacular coach drive back from Milford to Queenstown. It had been a wonderful five days.













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