New Zealand's greatest walk? That's the description and it lives up to it. We drove up from Napier to Taupo. Taupo is situated on a massive lake, so big that it looks more like the sea. The lake covers the centre of a massive super-volcano. Similar in some ways to Yellowstone. Around the lake there are numerous volcanoes, hot springs and other volcanic features. From the campsite we were able to arrange a bus to the start of the Tongariro Crossing. We looked across the field in the morning we could see a line of steam, and we realised that there was a hot spring nearby. A walk took us through woods and above the Waikato River. Eventually we descended to the Huka Falls which although not high are quite awe inspiring. The water from the lake is funneled into a narrow rocky channel which almost looks like a canal. Apparently 400 tons of water a second go through the gap which ends with a spectacular plunge over a 10 metre shelf. The weather was damp and we returned alongside the riverbank, arriving at a point where the hot spring met the river. We stripped off and joined the three or four other people there. It was tremendous a free jacuzzi, and actually a lot better than the ones you pay for. You can sit on the stones with hot water cascading over you and then cool off in the cooler water of the river. Naturally, ignoring the warning notices of imminent drowning etc.

We got up at 5am to catch the bus for Mangatepopo. The bus circled Taupo picking up more walkers. They weren't the usual profile of Kiwi trampers, but were mostly young in their twenties attracted to Taupo by the wide variety of adrenalin activities such as skydiving, bungie jumping etc. We talked to some young Germans from Hamburg and a couple of older Kiwi walkers. The only people of our generation and speed. We stumbled out of the bus at Mangetepopo, the younger walkers raced off as we slowly got our limbs to work. At first the weather was cloudy and overcast as we set off. At first you gently ascend through sharp, grey powdery rock, punctuated with darker lava flows. Then the path becomes very steep and there is a very stiff ¾ hour climb until you reach a totally arid flat lunar landscape, the Southern Crater. At the far side the wind increased as we started to climb up the exposed ridge of the red crater. The wind is funneled through here and although the ridge is quite wide the power of the wind makes it quite difficult and rather scary as you feel as though you are going to get blown off. It is quite common apparently for people to have to do this on hands and knees. We struggled up and were rewarded with the clouds lifting and amazing views of neighbouring volcanic peaks came into view. The colours are both dramatic and in a strange way quite threatening. Dark reds and blacks mark the vents of the volcanos with snow covering the highest peaks. You drop down from the red crater to a series of ethereal lakes, the blue and emerald lakes. The steep slope is fun and can be taken at a run as it is powdery rather than stony scree. You just lean back and go for it - rather like running down a high, black sand dune.

We lunched at the lake with the traditional English thermos of tea before continuing the journey through more volcanic features. The hot springs in the area are considered sacred by Maori. You can pass through but are not supposed to bathe. We dropped down the North crater to the Ketahi Hut. After a short stop for a breather the track descends to the Ketahi Road. It's a long tiring slog, about 8 hours in all and the end doesn't seem to come but eventually we arrived at the road and met the bus for our return to Taupo - sore in limb, but totally exhilarated by what must be the most spectacular one day walk around.