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Heading for Fiji: Close encounters with whales

22 June 2009 | South West Pacific Ocean
Jackie and Michael
We left for Fiji at dawn this morning after a few days of pretty horrible weather. We had been expecting some strong winds so we waited on a buoy in Neiafu. We had completed our check out on Friday but obviously could not leave until the weather passed. Hours passed, still no bad weather until Sunday morning at 7.00am. Winds up to 50 knots were recorded. A few boats dragged their anchor, including a highly expensive motor cruiser. The professional skipper was not on board and had to give radio instructions to local yachties on how to drop more anchor. It seemed highly complicated and they were not able to do it. Surprising that there was no emergency system. Luckily for the boat and its skipper the wind dropped before any harm was done. After a couple of hours the wind subsided and was followed by lots of rain and blustery wind. First thing the following morning we headed round to Port Morelle. The wind was still high and blustery so we dropped anchor and left for Fiji at first light (Tuesday morning)

A couple of boats left even earlier than us but we left with Harmonie at about 6 am Tonga time. At first the shelter of the islands made the sea smooth but it quickly became quite rough. So were soon bouncing along in winds of about 22 to 30 knots with a very agitated sea. We had expected the sea to be quite rough after the poor weather and were keen to get a good speed on the journey. A good speed should mean with a bit of luck that we pass the Lau islands in daylight. These are islands off the main 2 islands of Fiji. We hope to be at the Lau islands late tomorrow afternoon. The Fijian authorities do not allow boats to stop there so we carry straight on for another day to our destination of Copra Cove on Vanua Levu, then Northern main island.

At 8am Fiji time Michael saw what he thought was smoke in the water. We swiftly realised it wasn't smoke but whales blowing off. Suddenly we were in the midst of a pod of whales. We saw three for certain. We were going at 8 knots and it looked as if we might hit them so we swerved away to the south. Massive white spotted fins seemed suspended in the air just to the side of the boat for what seemed like an age before disappearing under water. We were really quite scared. Previously we had seen whales in relatively calm seas at a safe distance, not charging straight at them.

Luckily the whales after displaying their fins and leaping disappeared North - an awesome sight. Their sheer size being so overpowering and to think people used to hunt them in open boats.

No photos of the whales since we were too busy watching them and avoiding them.
Comments
Vessel Name: Lady Kay
Vessel Make/Model: Lagoon 380
Hailing Port: Falmouth
Crew: Michael & Jackie Chapman
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