We all left Makongi, Storyteller heading for the main island of Vitu Levu to pick up visitors, and Harmonie and Lady Kay to another small island, Yadua Island (pronounced Yandua). It was excellent sailing. The first half was all downwind up a channel between two reef systems and we were able to deploy our new large asymmetric spinnaker and really sail for a change. The second half of the day was more upwind, good for Harmonie, but no good for us as we are still without a genoa, so we had to motor sail. It was a good day for fishing, we caught a good sized Mahi-mahi, plus two enormous barracuda, one of which we threw back. Harmonie caught a black fin tuna - our first tuna for ages, and a wahoo which they threw back. We arrived at Yadua late afternoon and the good sunshine was a great help in working out way through the reefs into the deep bay which is full of lots of sandy bays and coral reefs. The little island just separate from Yadua is a marine reserve for Fijian crested iguanas and the Marine Ranger is the chief of the village, situated a good two hours walk across steep, ridged terrain.

We decided to walk across the island to the village to do our sevu-sevu, despite the pouring rain that the morning had brought. We found a small wooden sign just off the beach which pointed to the village, along a narrow track. The first part of the walk took us through banana, coconut and papaya trees and then a steep climb through grass, acacia and pine took us up to the first ridge. The heat and humidity was most uncomfortable and not a breath of wind reached us even when we topped the ridge. We were somewhat disappointed to find that this climb was just the start of a much longer one up a narrow ridge to below the remains of a lighthouse. Unfortunately the views were mostly obscured by the rain. The black volcanic rock threw the heat back at us, but we managed to keep going and eventually started our descent into the village.

It was an attractive village, based on a flat portion of land with sea one side and high black volcanic cliffs on the other side. The houses were a mixture of traditional woven huts and the rather ugly corrugated iron version. It was good to see that they were in the middle of building another traditional hut. As usual the villagers were very friendly and pleased to see us. The chief was away fishing, so we handed our kava to his wife - the only unfriendly face in the village. We signed a visitors book, but she didn't thank us or tell us we were welcome. It was a long wet walk back across the island, and the track seemed narrower than ever and the grass higher. We got back about four and had a delicious meal of black fin tuna on Harmonie that evening.

The following day was beautiful weather and we spent it snorkeling and kayaking over the reefs. The snorkeling was rather short-lived as Anne saw two white-tipped reef sharks which led to a hasty exit from the water. Kyaking did work very well though as we could paddle over the top of the reefs in about a foot of water and the water was was so still that you could see as well as you could snorkeling. The range of coral and fish was tremendous. It was so clear that you could also see down the deep fissures in the reefs to the bottom below.

Later that day the chief came to visit us in the bay in his ranger motor boat and thanked us for visiting the village. He also asked to see our cruising permits though! He had two volunteer workers from the Channel Islands on board who showed us some pictures they had taken of the marine iguanas.