Lazy Pelican has reached the Med!

16 October 2020 | Naxos
13 October 2020 | Paros
08 October 2020 | Schinoussa
05 October 2020 | Astapalia
04 October 2020 | Livadi, Astapalia
02 October 2020 | Astapalia
24 September 2020 | Patmos
22 September 2020 | Lipsi
22 September 2020 | Lipsi
16 September 2020 | Lakki
16 September 2020 | Lakki
15 September 2020 | Levithia
09 September 2020 | Lakki, Leros
07 September 2020 | Partheni, Leros
18 September 2019 | Nisyros
17 September 2019 | Nisyros
15 September 2019 | Leros
07 June 2019 | Leros
05 June 2019 | Leros
04 June 2019 | Leros

Naxos - Centre of the Cyclades

16 October 2020 | Naxos
Maggie Fowler
No power in Filoti, so we can’t get a coffee, but there’s a show to watch and most of the village is there!

We have finally reached Naxos town. We've cruised in this area for 3 years now, and conditions have never been quite right for a visit to Naxos Town. The transport hub for all the surrounding islands, the harbour is notorious for terrible ferry washes day and 'chaotic' conditions. But in spite of this Naxos is attractive - a nice mixture of tourist destination, working harbour, castle, medieval lanes and classical ruins. The weather seems settled, so we hire a car and explore the island. Only the northern half, because there's only a single dirt road that services the southern half! We have a great day exploring the inland villages and tiny coastal resorts.

Our second home..

13 October 2020 | Paros
Maggie Fowler
On passage from Paros to Naxos
We always end up in Naoussa on Paros. And why wouldn't you, good shelter, shops, laundry and the best bakery/coffee shop in the Aegean! There's a strong southerly coming through and we sit it out for a few days until it looks like weather for Naxos.

Schinoussa in the dark

08 October 2020 | Schinoussa
Maggie Fowler
Our third anchorage on Schinoussa - and the best!
We motor across to Schinoussa - no wind at all - anchor and swim. We're just thinking about supper when the wind comes up - and it's coming straight into the bay. We've think we've got time to go round to the other side of the island - about 400m by land, but an hour's journey in the boat - but by the time we're there and dropping the anchor, it's absolute blackness and we need torches out to make sure we don't get tangled up with swimming buoys. In the morning we move into the little harbour and stay for a couple of days.

Deserted!

05 October 2020 | Astapalia
Maggie Fowler
Nothing at all in this corner of the island
We've stopped at an anchorage on the NW corner of Astapalia - and it's completely deserted - no habitation, vegetation, birds or even fish to be seen. After a couple of hours we manage to spot a few goats - but even they are without the usual clanging bells.

Quiet Times

04 October 2020 | Livadi, Astapalia
Maggie Fowler
All the houses newly painted - but no visitors
We never did make it to Amorgos! From Patmos we returned to Leros, met up with Suli - a boat we last saw in Bilbao - for a couple of days, by which time the wind was just right for Astapalia.
It seems that just like us, the residents have used lockdown to get their houses painted! Everywhere is clean and bright, but sadly lacking in visitors. We went out last night with friends on Teal, it was less like eating at a taverna, more like imposing on a family meal - we were the only customers and when 'mama' came to take the order she pulled up a chair, and in spite of being hampered by wearing a mask, gave us the family history and the very limited menu!

Self Isolation

02 October 2020 | Astapalia
Maggie Fowler
Self isolation doesn’t get any better than this!

Anchored off a remote island, off the tiny island of Astapalia in the Dodecanese.....

Essential supplies

24 September 2020 | Patmos
Maggie Fowler
The tanker spoils the view
It’s time to move on. There’s just a chance that conditions tomorrow will right for a sail to Amorgos, so we move up Patmos which will cut a few miles off the journey. We go to Grikou where there are mooring buoys- we think it would be a pretty little village if it wasn’t for a ship that was moored right across the bay with its engines running.
There’s a lovely walk up to the Chora - a much nicer walk than it is from the port, but it’s sad to find the Chora completely deserted.
That evening we have a lovely meal at the Flisvos taverna - and realise that the ship is delivering the island's water supply - we are suddenly much more tolerant of its presence!

Supporting the local economy

22 September 2020 | Lipsi
Maggie Fowler
Our current location!
It’s important we think, in these difficult times, to try and support the local economy - so we have made the effort to come into Lipsi everyday for coffee and baklava!

Tucked away on Lipsi

22 September 2020 | Lipsi
Maggie Fowler
Sitting around at anchor for a few days
Although the medicane didn't come this far east, we've spent the last few days keeping out of the way of a meltemi - strong winds from the north. There's a bay on the south of Lipsi that's ideal: beautiful, sheltered with good holding and from the little beach it's only a 20 minute walk into the village.
That’s Leros in the background - after two weeks at sea we are still only 5 mls from home!

The Perfect Storm

16 September 2020 | Lakki
Maggie Fowler
The weather chart facing boats heading west
Three separate issues have conspired to create a nightmare of a problem for Brits like our friends, with boats in Turkey who would like to sail in EU waters next year. First is Brexit - the regulations will be much easier for boats that were physically in the EU on 31st December 2020. Knowing this, many Brits with boats in Turkey planned to return to Greece during 2020. (It's less than 10mls between Greece and Turkey in many places). Then there was Coronavirus - and it wasn't possible to sail in either Turkey or Greece in the Spring. Finally, in May, following growing antagonism between the two countries, Greece closed its borders with Turkey - refusing to allow people - or boats - to pass directly from Turkey into Greece. That's why our friends in Levithia were having to travel 630mls to Malta or Sicily rather than 11mls to Kos.
And to cap it all there's a hurricane in their path.
When we had a medicane 2 years ago, they said it was a once in a lifetime event - well now there's another one brewing off the coast of Africa. It's currently heading for the Ionian - it probably won't reach us in the Eastern Aegean, we just hope our friends manage to avoid it too.
Vessel Name: Lazy Pelican
Vessel Make/Model: Bavaria 39
Hailing Port: Poole, England
Crew: John and Maggie Fowler
Extra:
We bought Lazy Pelican - a 2006 Bavaria 39 - in November 2008 with the intention of cruising in the Eastern Mediterranean. The question then arose of how to get her there from Poole on the South Coast of England! Our main sailing experience was 5 years cruising in Croatia where we enjoyed short day [...]
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Lazy Pelican's Photos -

Lazy Pelican

Who: John and Maggie Fowler
Port: Poole, England