Our phones alert us to the danger

I have just popped over to the ladies in the marina's ablution block when the ground shakes! It's the nightmare scenario of being caught with your pants down! There's enough movement, that I decide I'd better get out of the building pretty quick. Once outside I can see that others are coming out of the government building next door. None of this impresses the skipper - who, sitting on his boat and unaware of any movement, thinks I've gone mad. That's until our phones start shouting at us - an emergency warning in Greek and English, telling us there's been an earthquake and we're at possible risk of a tsunami and should leave the coastal area. Within a couple of minutes, we can see reports of an earthquake in Samos - about 40 mls north of us. The port police come round and say we should leave our boats until it's clear there is no danger. We stand on the quay and watch as the water level in the harbour slowly sinks - by about 18 inches - and returns and repeats the process several more times.

We have just got ourselves settled in the marina when Stellios comes round to say that there's a boat coming in with Covid on board! Boats are being moved around so that they can be accommodated on the outer pontoon - behind ticker tape - with no other yachts nearby. Apparently the Finnish owner of the boat has been out here since March working on his boat - and went down to Kos to pick up some young crew who had come out to help him - but one of them tested positive on arrival - so now they all 4 have to quarantine on a small boat only allowed off onto the pontoon for daily exercise!

The main has a tear in it - which will require a repair, and the clocks are going back - a sure sign that's time to get back to Lakki. We return via Despotika, Skinoussa and Lavithia (where we follow white blobs on the rocks by torchlight to the farm for a meal).

We've been wanting to get to Milos and head in that direction - but only get as far as Sifnos before 'weather' comes in. We take refuge in the harbour at Platis Gialos - and stay 4 nights. Fantastic walks.

No power in Filoti, so we can’t get a coffee, but there’s a show to watch and most of the village is there!

We have finally reached Naxos town. We've cruised in this area for 3 years now, and conditions have never been quite right for a visit to Naxos Town. The transport hub for all the surrounding islands, the harbour is notorious for terrible ferry washes day and 'chaotic' conditions. But in spite of this Naxos is attractive - a nice mixture of tourist destination, working harbour, castle, medieval lanes and classical ruins. The weather seems settled, so we hire a car and explore the island. Only the northern half, because there's only a single dirt road that services the southern half! We have a great day exploring the inland villages and tiny coastal resorts.

On passage from Paros to Naxos
We always end up in Naoussa on Paros. And why wouldn't you, good shelter, shops, laundry and the best bakery/coffee shop in the Aegean! There's a strong southerly coming through and we sit it out for a few days until it looks like weather for Naxos.

Our third anchorage on Schinoussa - and the best!
We motor across to Schinoussa - no wind at all - anchor and swim. We're just thinking about supper when the wind comes up - and it's coming straight into the bay. We've think we've got time to go round to the other side of the island - about 400m by land, but an hour's journey in the boat - but by the time we're there and dropping the anchor, it's absolute blackness and we need torches out to make sure we don't get tangled up with swimming buoys. In the morning we move into the little harbour and stay for a couple of days.

Nothing at all in this corner of the island
We've stopped at an anchorage on the NW corner of Astapalia - and it's completely deserted - no habitation, vegetation, birds or even fish to be seen. After a couple of hours we manage to spot a few goats - but even they are without the usual clanging bells.

All the houses newly painted - but no visitors
We never did make it to Amorgos! From Patmos we returned to Leros, met up with Suli - a boat we last saw in Bilbao - for a couple of days, by which time the wind was just right for Astapalia.
It seems that just like us, the residents have used lockdown to get their houses painted! Everywhere is clean and bright, but sadly lacking in visitors. We went out last night with friends on Teal, it was less like eating at a taverna, more like imposing on a family meal - we were the only customers and when 'mama' came to take the order she pulled up a chair, and in spite of being hampered by wearing a mask, gave us the family history and the very limited menu!

Self isolation doesn’t get any better than this!

Anchored off a remote island, off the tiny island of Astapalia in the Dodecanese.....