Not all Plain Sailing!
09 July 2017 | Harbour at Cassis
Jules
Since leaving Toulon we have had some real high and low lights, plenty of yang to go with our yin! We set off from Toulon and started motoring west towards Marseille. We had read online that the port of Cassis was well worth a visit but had very little space for visitors. Undeterred I called them by phone and thankfully the lady spoke a little English and with my Franglais we got a space. As we entered the harbour the water was so clear we were certain we were about to go aground, but the depth sounder showed us with 2m to spare. The harbour is really tiny, and there is very little room to manoeuvre so we were glad to be met by two mooring guys in a dory. They looked at the name of our boat and told us to leave… We were not on the list. A heated debate ensued with much gallic gesticulation and a few Anglo-saxon expressions from me as we tried to avoid the tripper boats coming in and out whilst arguing with Dupont and Dupond! No Joy! "You must have called another port” we were told. Then I remembered that the lady on the phone had taken my name not the boat name. We asked them to check the list for ‘Windmill' and lo and behold, there we were. Perhaps as a punishment they got us to moor on the end of a concrete pier with just one metre of the pier touching the side of the boat. We had to get the dogs ashore by running out a gang plank, but it was well worth it. Cassis was fantastic. It is like a film set for “A Year in Provence”. There are perfect tree lined squares, great restaurants and fantastic views over the sea. We had moules frites for dinner as the sun set over the harbour.
Next day, after coffee ashore, we sailed to Marseille. France’s third biggest city is fantastic when seen from the sea and we were delighted to get a mooring in the old harbour before hitting the sites. There are two things you can’t avoid here. First there are soap shops galore and the city is famous for its soap factories. Sade was in her element, sniffing and comparing soaps of every possible flavour. The second is pastis. There I was in my element, as the aniseed nectar is one of my favourite drinks! We had sworn not to eat out again as our budget had already taken a pounding in Cassis, but we couldn’t resist a three course menu, including the famous bouillabaisse for me and seared Tuna for Sade. After dinner we found a square with a band playing latin music, and a huge crowd dancing along. We joined in and didn’t get to bed until the early hours. What a city!
The following morning we left France for Spain. The forecast was for south east winds on the beam which would be perfect for the 24 hour sail. After an hour we hit thick fog! We were zooming along with all sails set not able to see the large island that was only 1/4 mile from us nor the tankers approaching Marseille. Thankfully we have great radar so we kept sailing with the eerie fog horns of distant boats all around us and four hours later we sailed out into blazing sunshine. It was about then that we heard a bang, bang, bang then a shudder from under the boat. I went below to check all was ok and found that the gear box had leaked out all its oil. We stopped sailing and I tied up the prop shaft to stop it moving and cleared up the mess. We decided not to set back, so we pressed on toward Spain. In the end we limped into a little bay near Cadaques in Catalunia and picked up a mooring buoy. It was clear that we needed to get somewhere to examine the gearbox and find out what had caused the leak. Sade swam under the boat and we were relieved to find that the propellor and propshaft were fine.
We had a great day in Cadaques then headed south to Barcelona. This was when the fun started. The wind was from behind us so I thought it would be OK as we wouldn’t have to use the engine.
We flew the spinnaker for about an hour and were going well but then a gust hit us and the shackle attaching the rope to the sail snapped like a twig!
We went forward to get the sail down and it was then that I found that Tinker had used the “poop deck” just before I got there. I had bare feet, and I have to say that warm dog shit between the toes is not to be recommended! I may have used some more Anglo saxon.
We bundled the sail into its bag, and hauled up the spinnaker pole, which immediatley separated from the “Donkey's Knob” (yes that is the things actual name, and we will leave you to imagine what it looks like) on the mast. In big swelly seas, Sade and I staggered about on deck with the heavy 5 metre long pole desperately trying to get it under control.
Once that was sorted out, both dogs were then promptly seasick in the cockpit. Poor Sade was brilliant cleaning up their undigested breakfasts!
Then we found the gearbox was leaking very badly unless we ran the engine in gear. By doing this we were pressing the propshaft back into the box. This meant filling it up with oil every hour, but fortunately we just about had enough.
Next the heavens opened and we were hit by torrential rain as a thunder storm passed over. This was followed by the radar reflector on our mizzen mast falling off and landing on Scrappy”s head. As anybody who owns one will know, Staffies are tough dogs with an amazingly high pain threshold, but he did look quite offended!
Finally, after entering the marina we completed a marvellous day when we discovered at the very last minute that we had no reverse gear. This happened just as we were approaching a concrete quay wall. Fortunately we were going very, very slowly but the crunch sounded awful, and we have lost a fair bit of gelcoat.
So here we are just north of Barcelona for the next two weeks having a relaxing couple of days before trying to get the gearbox sorted and the bow repaired.
Some days it not all plain sailing, but we are undaunted. Five years ago in May we flew to this same coast for a long weekend. At the time we had no idea that the huge swellings on her neck and her inability to stay awake were any more than the effects of the mumps (as we had been told by the dear old NHS). Five years ago tomorrow Sade was told she actually had leukaemia and today she looks and feels fantastically well. This kind of puts all this weeks problems into perspective.
What’s more, as my old T-shirt used to say “ a bad day on the water is better than a good day in the office!"