NW Passage

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Climbing in Langley Peak region

10 January 2015 | Langley Peak, Curtiss Bay
We spent the last three days up on the Peninsula scaling three (most likely) unclimbed peaks.

On the first day, we landed between growlers on a spot just south of Cape Andreas in Curtiss Bay, and installed an emergency depot with dry-suits, food and gasoline not far from some nesting birds. Then we used our skis with skins to ascend up the glacier with our pulkas, the first part was very steep but then it flattened out. After 7km we installed our base camp at 600m altitude. The snow lent itself very well to build a protective iglu wall around our camp making it a safe and fairly comfortable location.

The weather wasn't particularly favorable during the first two days, practically a white out, so whenever it cleared temporarily, we immediately grasped the opportunity to climb several adjacent peaks. After two attempts we reached the top of Unnamed Peak 1 (824m) over a nice,steep, crevassed shoulder around midnight of Day 1. After another two attempts we reached Langley Peak (977m) at 02:30 am in the morning of Day 3, climbing with skis almost all the way to the top. Later in the morning of Day 3 improving weather conditions allowed us to climb the bitmore technical Unnamed Peak 2(982m) over its very steep NE ridge. Uelihad to use his shovel to crack the snow mushroom on top of the ridge.The view from the top onto the Wright Ice Piedmont and the Detroit Plateau was incredible. Nothing but glaciers and mountains (many of which unclimbed) as far as we could see. We intend to name this summit Mount Libellule.

The ski ride back down the glacier with our pulkas was alot of fun, and despite the fact that the cove near our landing spot was covered withsmall ice bits , we reached the boat safely, sunburned but very happy. The shower, Quilmes beer, and delicious lasagna afterwards felt like paradise, and we slept like angels.
Vessel Name: Libellule
Hailing Port: Switzerland
Crew: The Cottier family on s/v Libellule
Extra: Caribbean - Greenland/Iceland - NW Passage - South Pacific - Antarctic Peninsula - Svalbard
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