Summer 2023: Arctic Ocean
22 August 2023 | Bodö
2700 Nm across the Arctic Ocean in 45 days with our catamaran Libellule and a crew of 3-11
Faroe Islands - Iceland - Tasiilaq - Blosseville Coast - Ittoqqortoormiit - Liverpool Land - Jan Mayen - Lofoten
22 August 2023 | Reinebringen, Reine/Lofoten
The sail from Jan Mayen to Reine was everyone's least favored part of this summer. 520Nm in 4 days of cross seas, heavy easterly headwinds, and grey drizzle weather. The hike up Reinebringen with its beautiful vistas over the southerly part of the Lofoten islands, and the nice arrival dinner, partially compensated for it.
18 August 2023 | Kvalrossbukta, Jan Mayen
After an easy 2-day sail we arrived in Jan Mayen - mysterious rugged black island with a big white volcano (Beerenberg 2277m) and thousands of puffins and other birds. Libellule was only the 5th sailboat in 2023 to arrive here. After meeting the Stationssjef (Jan Mayen is Norvegian territory and needs a special permit), we anchored in Kvalrossbukta and hiked up Kvalrossen.
15 August 2023 | Cape Greg, Liverpool Land coast
We anchored at Hyttebugt just south of Cape Greg. The hike up the Cape was marvellous, in T-Shirts, and we were followed all the way up by a beautiful polar fox.
In the second night, we got chased away by pack ice - one ice flow capsized directly under our hull... - so we decided to leave for Jan Mayen.
In the pack ice
14 August 2023 | Marianer Fjord, Liverpool Land
From Ittoqqortoormiit we sailed up the Liverpool Land fjords through 1/10 and 2/10 pack ice, but from Marianer Fjord northwards the coast was completely blocked. And with announced northerly winds and a lot more 'red' and 'yellow' ice up the coast waiting to drift southwards, we decided to abandon our goal to sail to Ella Ö in the Northeast Greenland National Park.
Ice blocking the way north
14 August 2023
Bergy bits everywhere
13 August 2023
13 August 2023
Nice village with 350 people, far away from everything. We loaded up on diesel, food in the nicely stocked Pilersuisoq supermarket, used the shower and laundry facilities, and went for our usual hike.
Apparently, Ittoqqortoormiit receives up to 50 cruise ships per summer, and it was weird for us to watch two cruiseships unload hundreds of people.
12 August 2023 | Turner Inlet
We left Stor Ö on Aug 9th and sailed up the Blosseville Coast for 2.5 days to Roemer Fjord. We did not stop in Kangerlussuaq since we were already 10 days late due to this season's pack ice conditions. Saw orcas, humpback, minke and Rudolphi whales on the way.
When we reached Roemer Fjord, some local hunters were waiting for narwhales to come in, and politely asked us to leave again, otherwise we would scare the narwhales away; so we anchored in Turner Inlet. Beautiful place, seals, beautiful hike, but still loads of pack ice, so after having had to lift the anchor a couple of times to evade some approaching big icefloes, we decided to continue to Ittoqqortoormiit.
07 August 2023 | Kangertivartikajik Fjord, Tasiilaq region
Nice quite anchorage after having picked up new crew members in Kulusuk. Next stop in Stor Ö, then up the Blosseville Coast.
06 August 2023 | Tasiilaq
Beautiful hike up Sömandsfjeldet in Tasiilaq area, with view onto Kong Oskar Havn. Loaded up on food in the local supermarket.
05 August 2023 | Qerqikajik bowl, Tasiilaq island
Anchorage in beautiful Qerqikajik bowl, with nice hike, and some fishing
04 August 2023 | Qingertuaq/Tasiilaq Fjord
We just got back from 4 marvellous days in the side fjords of Amagssalik Fjord; incredibly beautiful anchorages, completely remote. With nice hikes every day and loads of whale sightings.
Now waiting for the rest of the crew to arrive in Kulusuk/Tasiilaq and then off north.
Still a lot of pack ice in Kangerlussuaq, on the Blosseville Coast and around Ittoqqortormiit though.
31 July 2023 | Kulusuk
Its great to be back in Kulusuk. Howling dogs, floating ice, gorgeous mountains, Greenlandic culture. And a comfortable anchorage.
View onto Amagassalik Fjord
30 July 2023 | Kulusuk
Crossing from Isafjördur to East Greenland
30 July 2023 | Denmark Strait
Lots of humpback whales everywhere
First try-out with our new drone
28 July 2023 | Hrafnsfjördur
Veidileysufjördur/ NW fjords
24 July 2023 | Veidileysufjördur
Stroll on the beach
Arrival in Seydisfjördur/Iceland
16 July 2023 | Coast just outside of Seydisfjördur
Tough 350 Nm crossing from Faroe to iceland, with lots of cross seas, and some dolphins
Start to our 2023 East Greenland cruise: Faroe Islands
09 July 2023 | Torshavn/Faroe