Since our last update, we have traveled from the northeast side of Vancouver Island to about half way down the west side over a period of almost three weeks. Due to some weather delays (periodic predictions of gale force winds), we chose to hunker down in various protected coves where we totally relaxed yet there was never a lack of something to do or see. A couple of times, we would venture out of our cozy anchorage and travel the few miles to check on the actual weather conditions at the entrance of the passages we entered in the first place. Yup, the seas and wind are much bigger than we care to deal with on this rock-strewn coast and growing worse by the hour. So we turn around and crawl back into a quiet cove once again. But first we stop to catch a fish (we are now mostly able to catch fish when we want to). Rockfish makes an awesome fish n’ chips meal.

Finally, the weather settles down and we sneak out in the wee hours to round Brooks Peninsula (an area notorious for accelerated winds and confused seas). We deal with some early morning fog that finally breaks up as we approach Cape Cook and we have enough wind to hoist the sails as we round the Cape on the tip of the Peninsula. Soon thereafter we found ourselves sailing with the whales. Humpback whales, way to many to count, over a circumference of two miles from our boat were everywhere, surfacing, moseying along, and diving. This was a first for us, being totally surrounded by whales and we were thoroughly enjoying this entertainment when we realized they couldn’t hear us moving through the water without our engine on. As a few whales came a little too close for comfort, we doused the sails and started motoring. I can’t believe I just said that. We actually became quite nervous not knowing where the next one would surface. This was truly an amazing experience. Turns out, due to the upwelling in this particular area, it is a popular feeding ground for humpbacks at this time of year.

We roasted hot dogs and marshmallows at a beach fire we built one evening with sailors from two other boats with whom we have since bonded after sharing several days hunkered down in the same anchorages. Friendships which will continue to grow as we travel down the coast and beyond.

During the most recent layover in a quiet cove, we had quite a bit of rain (only the second time since leaving Seattle in June). Now, as the moon is waxing to full exposure, once again we can see through the diminishing clouds and favorable weather seems to be on the horizon.