A calm night, then off to the ferry queue. As the weeks go by, it is clear that Orkney is getting busier. Our ferry today, the Earl Sigurd again, was absolutely full of traffic, going to Sanday and Eday. We were first off, in lovely sunny weather, so we drove upisland for a bit then found a long curving sandy beach to go for a walk on. Jack was in his element, and we were the only three on that beach. Beautiful white shell sand.

We had lunch back at the van, parked on the grassy verge beside a graveyard with a ruined church in it. Then we headed for the chambered cairn at Quoyness, having read that it was exceptional. Down a long farm track, to a car park, after a mile or two, only to discover that no dogs could be taken down the path from there to the cairn. It was too hot to leave Jack in the van, so all we could do was spit and fume and turn round. It does not seem fair that Historic Scotland should have a brown sign pointing to this ancient monument without ensuring that the farmer provides a fenced path to it, away from their cows with calves that they don't want dogs to upset. Or at least say no dogs allowed beside the brown sign. Grrr.

Driving further north on Sanday we saw the Start Point lighthouse in the distance, with its vertical black and white stripes. Another Stevenson lighthouse, they are all over Orkney, it seems.

On the road we passed a bay where one of Germany's first two destroyers ever built for the first world war lies beached and visible only at low tide. We made a mental note to come back one day at low tide. The two world wars have left their mark on these islands. We went on to pass bizarre buildings left over from a radar tracking station.

Finally we headed for our campsite, where we were pleasantly surprised to find a good pitch, with electricity, and a direct view of the sea, looking out westward towards Papay and Westray!

Almost feeling nostalgic, as this is our tenth and last of Orkney's northern isles. Next up will be Hoy.