On Wednesday we had a relatively quiet day, just a couple of walks along the beach near Moaness ferry pier, then up to Hoy Kirk which no longer functions as a church, but as a community arts centre. It is hosting an exhibition of Peter Maxwell Davies life on Hoy, and the music he made there, for local people. A lullaby for the first baby born at Rackwick for generations, a lament for a drowned ram, a farewell to Stromness. The woman running the exhibition waxed lyrical about the concert held there on Tuesday by all the musicians we saw on the ferry. The Lullaby for Lucy was sung in the presence of the grown-up Lucy who was there with her own children. Apparently she had never heard it sung before.

We were plied with tea and biscuits as we looked at the exhibitin, and entertained by excerpts of the composer’s music.

After that we went to the small cafe on the road to the pier and had lunch, accompanied by a blast of internet. Broadband is in short supply in Orkney, whatever you may hear on the media.

To our relief the supersize motorhome that had dominated the carpark the previous day and night finally departed as we were on our way back to the van. Our wild campsite was all ours again!

On Thursday we went back down to South Walls, and did the walk round Cantick Head. The weather was kind to us, sunny and dry. The house at the lighthouse was for sale. The view of the Scottish coast was clear, to the south.

After the walk we had a picnic lunch in the van, and got our breath back. Then we went along to visit the Martello tower owned by Historic Scotland, near Longhope. To our surprise there was a guide, a very nice possibly ex military man who talked us through the building and use of this watchtower in the Napoleonic wars, when the possible intruders to these waters could have been French or American privateers. Later of course it played a part in the world wars, particularly the first. Then to our delight he took us to the Martello tower itself, and we clambered up the ladder to the door three or four metres up the wall, and discovered what life had been like for the sentinels posted there. A huge gun was set up normally on the roof (it was away for refurbishment on our visit) and it was capable of firing shot or later shells for up to one and a half miles, to disable any enemy ship attempting to access Scapa Flow. Thanks to Norah’s kind gift of Historic Scotland membership this personalised guided tour was completely free for us!

We headed back towards Lyness and parked again by the waiting room. Since there was not much left in the fridge and we did not need the fan heater as the temperature had gone up a lot I decided not to take up the previous generous offer to hook up to the power socket in the waiting room.
On Friday morning we boarded the ferry, the Hoy Head, for Flotta. This was island fourteen of our trip, and it was really interesting from a historical point of view. Nowadays the home of a huge oil terminal, which occupies most of that part of the island close to the ferry terminal, Flotta’s role in the two world wars can be seen all over the landscape, and particularly round the coast. At the crucial south entrance to Scapa Flow, military installations along the coast watched and listened for enemy vessels, particularly U-boats, trying to gain emtrance to the Flow where the home fleet were all anchored. In WW1 the listening system worked, detecting one U-boat and blowing it up.

First we visited the Buchanan Battery on the north coast. We later walked out to a huge lookout building at the top of cliffs looking south. All these buildings are derelict and dangerous, so it is not possible to go in and check them out. We wondered how long ago things have to be before Historic Scotland takes an interest in a military establishment or building?

I popped into the shop for a couple of items and met the proprietor, a doughty lady of 82, who chatted away about island life. Apparently the school on the island does not function, as all 13 of the children on Flotta are home-schooled! How appalling is that?

We had lunch near one of the piers, then visited the mothballed site of the local airfield. Apparently it was used a lot when the company that built the oil terminal were around. Now there are no scheduled flights from or to here.

Instead of going back to Hoy we headed back to the mainland, and bought some supplies in Kirkwall to make dinner for us and James that evening.

A very pleasant weekend ensued, chilling out at James’ place again. We took him out to dinner on Saturday to say thanks for all his marvellous hospitality during these nine weeks we have been on Orkney. He picked the restaurant, the Foveran near the Scapa distillery on Scapa Flow, and it did not disappoint, great food, relaxed friendly service, a real treat.

A very quiet day on Sunday, then on Monday off down the barriers to the southern isles.