The local radio station does a variety of programmes broadcast on the Radio Scotland's frequency. One of the programmes is a morning half hour local news summary which is also available via podcast. We listened each weekday for the past two years to "Around Orkney" whenever we had a phone data signal. In French Polynesia, aboard Spruce, we became acquainted with this group of islands a few miles off the north coast of Scotland: community news, weather, events and key topics of concern to islanders. Ferry disruptions due to storms, breakdowns and groundings; road closures along the Churchill Barriers, built after the sinking of HMS Royal Oak in Scapa Flow in 1939, to link the southern islands and block maritime incursion. Farming news with auction activity and the types of animals reared was reported as was the daily diary and weekly letters from listeners. Along with news from friends, who once cruised their sailboat and now live in Orkney, and updates from friends who visited under sail, we became fascinated and keen to have a look for ourselves. A prospect glimmered of a possible place to base ourselves for future summer cruises in northern waters. Shortly after we arrived in Kirkwall, one of the events mentioned was a Radio Orkney open day. So along we went for a visit hosted by Huw Williams and Cameron Stout, to meet a couple of faces attached to the voices we recognised so well.

The history of the local radio station described by Cameron was interesting, as were anecdotes of an amazing resource of recorded interviews with elderly islanders from 50-years ago. Work is afoot to digitise these tapes before they decay too far. One tale was of a very aged resident of the island of Rousay who recounted talking to his grandfather, once a cabin-boy to Admiral Nelson aboard HMS Victory. The anecdote went on to describe Nelson always being prepared for an untimely death. A wooden coffin of his own specification was carried aboard. This coffin it seems ended up in Rousay, its whereabouts today a mystery.

A sample of the strong tradition of music in Orkney was enjoyed at an evening played by two well known Scottish bands: The Chair and The Poozies who performed in Kirkwall at the sailing clubhouse. Their schedules of playing at various island venues on this tour was necessarily modified by a spell of windy weather, ferry cancellations and delays. The night in Kirkwall went ahead to plan. This photo shows a few of the members from each band joining for a finale after their own sets were completed. A mixture of percussion, accordion, fiddles, guitars and banjos with founder Poozies' harpist Mary Macmaster

As anticipated, at a latitude of 59 degrees north the weather can get a little sporty as Atlantic weather systems race through. Here a photo of blustery weather blowing Force 9 through the harbour in Kirkwall. The strongest gale thus far has been accompanied with gusts of wind above 60 knots. Spruce is snug now the heater is fully functional, a few tense moments, with tools and parts strewn around the cabin, were overtaken by a sense of relief and a warm glow.
There are also plenty of days with blue skies between weather systems when we get out walking. We remember one memorable winter in Cumbria when the rain never seemed to cease. It is not that wet here.
Winter preparations included buying a 200 metre reel of mooring rope, to save unnecessary wear on our normal dock lines. We have been allocated a berth into which we shall move once we have completed a few of the ongoing boat maintenance jobs. As usual the jobs are in a circular list, but now we are taking a break from longer distance ocean passages the rate of "new job creation" has slowed markedly.

The Orkney Islands are well known for their large number of Neolithic and Bronze Age archaeological sites. The earliest sites date from over 5,000 years ago, before Stonehenge or the pyramids were built. Although, Orkney was first occupied during the Mesolithic period some 8,500 years ago. This Bronze Age site, at Broch of Gurness, is a mere 2,500 years old and less well known than more famous sites such as Maes Howe, Stones of Stenness and Skara Brae. Summer tourists are attracted by these amazing structures. The northern islands of the group have many more sites not as frequented by visitors due to their remoteness and limited accessibility. We plan to visit some of those when cruising next summer. Because trees were in limited supply much building in Orkney used stone, hence the rich plethora of remains and hard evidence from the earliest times of human habitation: after the last ice age, through the Pictish era, the Old Viking age and through to Mediaeval times.

On Bonfire Night a spectacular firework show was preceded by the Kirkwall Pipe Band playing for the crowds. Lit in the background is the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral, a red sandstone edifice, construction of which started in the 12th Century.
Orkney has four pipe bands including two school/academy training bands. The most well known are this one based at the main town and the Stromness Band who we saw leading at the recent Remembrance Day commemoration parade. We hear that many youngsters play a variety of musical instruments in Orkney, a significant number go on playing as adults.
The strong musical tradition extends into scattered communities. A couple weeks ago we went with friends to a Harvest Home celebration at the village of Orphir. There were 150 people in attendance with a popular local band playing for dancers engaged in time-honoured reels and Scottish dances.