Shelburne, Waiting to cross
05 September 2014
With the laundry all redone and some groceries stored the boat and our life is back to some sort of normality. While still overcast the winds are light and supposed to shift to the west. So we will make a run for Shelburne, Shelburne Harbour has the third best natural harbour in the world. The seas are relatively calm but there are big rollers left over from the last few days. We are able to motor sail at a steady 5+ knots but the movement of the boat has got us both feeling a bit woozy.
As the day wears on the wind picks up and we are finally able to turn off the motor and give the new head sail a work out. We cut through the water doing a steady 6.5 knots with the auto helm working perfectly. The day ends with a beautiful 10 mile sail up the river to the Historic port of Shelburne where we grab a mooring ball and watch the sun set over the picturesque location that was used as the back drop for the 1995 Film "The Scarlet Letter".
After checking in with the Shelburne Yacht Club, showers are in order then a walking tour of the historic waterfront. Many of Shelburne's buildings date back to Loyalist times. The Shelburne County Museum is a restored home built in 1787 by David Nairn, from Scotland. And we see dories being built using construction methods of the late 19th century at the J C Williams Dory Shop.
4:00 and its happy hour at the Yacht club. This is our chance to get some local knowledge and plan our next steps. It's Happy hour.
We meet a number of boaters who are doing the same thing as us. We are all waiting for the perfect weather window to cross to Maine. They all have different experiences and advise. We'll just keep asking and see what we decide.
We are still at anchor and have gone into town for provisions a very long walk and we taxi back to the boat.
The tip of Nova Scotia is fraught with danger, Tidal bores and rip currents that can set a boat off course are everywhere. Locals talk of pot -holes; water falls, four feet deep that your boat will fall into on a calm sea.
Fog and wind against current can create huge standing waves.
You must hit specific locations at slack tide so timing is critical.
Which route to take?
We meet up with Mark and Mary Ellen a boat out of Toronto (they are from Ottawa)
called Persuasion a 37 foot C&C. They are waiting for friends who know the coast but they are headed to Grand Manan where they have family.
We are not sure that we want to do because a few boaters are talking about taking the inshore route past Cape Sable we are feeling that we draw too much and don't want to take the chance being that close to shore.
We meet up with Wolfgang Slanec and Doris Renoldner who are on their third circumnavigation of the globe. http://www.seenmaden.at/frameset.html
They are from Austria and we think they are great.
We sat in the cockpit of Genevieve with the charts and decide that together we will leave on Sunday September 07th from Shelburne for Bar Harbour about 183 nautical miles across the Bay of Fundy. The crossing will take around 30 hours and there are two major concerns. We need to hit Cape Sable at slack tide and reach the coast of Maine in daylight so we can avoid the thousands of lobster traps.
We have filled the diesel and cleaned and organized the boat. Provisioning completed.
Tonight we are off to the high school to see the Shelburne Film Expo, locally produced Independent films. They are competing for the "SHELBIE" award.