14 August 2009 | Canso Harbor, Canso Nova Scotia
Bob/ Incredible, Two days of Georgous Weather
Well we've said good by the the St. Lawrence Seaway officially this morning when we locked-up into the Atlantic Ocean at the Canso Canal. Without this canal and the causeway across the passage, tidal currents through this area would be 6 -7 knot both ways and pleasure sailboats could not make it though. We would have had to go around Cape Brenton through the Cabot Strait. Thankfully somebody very smart thought of this idea and now it's a piece of cake. We entered the lock and went up!! believe it or not to the Atlantic. This mostly do to tidal differences. It was a nostalgic moment having spent the last 5 -6 weeks making our way through the Great Lakes, up the St. Lawrence River, through the locks, out the seaway with whales, and seals and then north and east past some of the most impressive vistas we've seen anywhere.
Prince Edward Island was so much more than I ever expected. The car rental turned out to be just the perfect solution to a less than perfect weather day. But we only we able to visit the northern portion leaving the middle and southern sections for another trip, by motor home or car. We are so impressed with the Canadian maritimes we will return.
The last two days have been greorgus but windless. It seems to either glassy flat calm or white kunckles on the wheel with all the anxiety of heavy winds and rough water. We've been tested and the boat's been tested as well. And guess what?..... We've passed!!!
This has been a journey of completely unexpected and stunning experiences. Having never been north of the Laurentian Mountain except when skiing and then paying no attention to the topography and the people, I was wowed!! Forgive me Canadian readers, but this land is not forsaken, it is beautiful. There isn't any ice, and Mother Nature has out done herself dressing up these provences stunningly.
Tonight we are anchored in Canso Harbor. For some reason there are very few trees, the ones that do grow are stunted and it looks as you might expect a far out rocky point windblown and beatup by the weather. This town has quite a history as a fishing station. I can look out at the open Atlantic from our anchorage. Our guide book talks about Canso as being a shut down town; from my vanatage point here on Lucky Bird this place looks picturesque, with the hugh church, light houses, well manacured lawns and houses concentrated around the harbor. This town may have seen more prosperous times but to those living here now you offer a special sense of martitime being to these two traveling sailors. We'd love to sit with you and listen to your stories.
Last night, tied to the dock in Ballentynes Cove, an 80 year old fellow came down to our boat and talked with us for an hour. He has lived in Ballentyne Cove all his life and has fished for lobster since he was sixteen. Talk about values, talk about deep commitment, stability, patience and persistence. 50 years of marriage, and he was still living life although he'd just fought off neck cancer and was working hard at gaining back his strength and some weight. So what does this man of the sea do? He walks the docks, swinging his arms, loving his life and reaching out to people like us to share his stories. Such a positive person, he touched us with is honesty and integrity; I hope we gave him something in return.
Tomorrow we turn west down the coast of Nova Scotia, a moment to pause and reflect on how wonderful this has all been so far. Thank you Lord!