We didnt get to play in the Exumas as long as we wanted but the weather and repairs are calling us North. Our first stop upon leaving Stella Maris Marina on Long Island was an anchorage on the SW side of Bat Cay. Lovely place to anchor (and completely isolated) but the strongish current/changing tide means you need to keep an eye on the anchor. We had intended on passing through Cave Cay (as per Van Sant) but we ended up going through Fordham Cut - and luckily catching it on the "right" tide so we were, at one point, rushing along at 9.4 knots !

Big Majors was our next main anchorage in the Exumas - although with our lack of dinghy and our pressing need to have as many daylight hours as possible for sailing, we anchored away out from the island itself (in 9-10 feet of clear turquoise water). This, aside from Conception Island, was the busiest place we had yet seen sailing North through the Bahamas - with a total of 9 boats tight in the anchorage, albeit with only 1 other sailboat. Despite getting hit with a mini squall during the night and the changing tide turning us around, our anchor held us nicely in the soft sand. No breaking loose a la Martinique.......

We arrived at Nassau (east end) yesterday around 4PM, to a very busy harbour and a current whipping right on our bow. I feel sorry for the poor soul in the Harbour Patrol that has to take all the VHF calls of incoming boats required to check in.

As the Nassau Yacht Haven was rather disorganized and rather full (and closes at 5PM) we had to find elsewhere to park ourselves for a night or two so we could sightsee and provision. We couldnt face paying $4/ft per night at the Atlantis marina so we settled on Hurricane Hole Marina, right before the twin bridges. Coming in at 4.30PM meant a pretty mean current when entering the marina but we managed to swing into our slip with little problem, helped by the fact that the marina is half empty. Although I am impressed with their operating hours (8-8) and location, this marina has little else to impress me. This marina charges US style prices, at $2.50 per foot but everything is extra - electricity, water, wifi......

I wasnt particularly impressed with the service here nor the odd vermin seen running around the docks at our end (cockroaches, a rat) nor the fact that the bathrooms were temporarily closed as a local homeless man was parked outside them. I also didnt think the "discounted" tickets for the Atlantis waterpark, at $53 per person, were a bargain (especially as we found out later a number of the Atlantis exhibits are not operating/closed down).

Van Sant says in his book re: Nassau - "you either love it or hate it...." I am somewhat intrigued by the place. On Paradise Island, the Atlantis Resort is over the top (Las Vegas style) but I definately enjoyed our walk around the marina and resort grounds. I particularly liked the large aquarium next to the restaurant in the main complex, complete with multiple fish, sharks and rays. We then hoofed it over the bridge to Nassau proper where I enjoyed watching all the local fishing boats coming in, unloading their catch and then putting it up for sale on tables lining the waterfront. Conch stands seem to be particularly popular. The "Poop Deck" was worth a stop for a few drinks during happy hour and a nibble and I was pleasantly surprised by The Seafood Sushi restaurant just down the street.

Onto the Berry Islands tomorrow !