The worry of the Galapagos entry examination has terrified these two academics for a long time. It began on Christmas Day in our small wood heated cabin in the Adirondack Forest when Karl opened the book about the Pacific, he had given Robin and read the entry on the Galapagos. It outlined the strict environmental guidelines a boat must meet to enter the Galapagos marine sanctuary. Fear of our beloved Mabel Rose being unfit to sail the Galapagos blossomed.

The Mabel Rose is 40 years old, built in France the year Karl and I got married. She has many miles under her keel and she has taken good care of us. We know the boat works but were not sure she would pass the strict modern standards to enter the Galapagos. We met many sailors in Panama who were just convinced these requirements were impossible to meet. We really wanted to see these islands where evolution happens so we were going to try.

Karl became a shade tree diesel mechanic (the idea that a mechanic works in the backyard under a tree or maybe in the hold of a sailboat). In the dead of winter, Karl rebuilt our 40-year-old tractor engine named Perkie who leaked oil. Then in April with our May departure date looming we could not sea trial the rebuilt engine (check that oil no longer leaked with the boat in the water). Then a new engine (Beta) became available and Karl installed this new engine. So much sweat, sleepless nights, discussions about in and outs diesel engines silled our winer and spring. We also worried about our medical kit, garbage disposal protocols, the clean slimy bilge was (wet bottom of the boat) and of course the dreaded barnacles. By the time we arrived yesterday the bottom was painted with anti fouling (anti barnacle paint), we had paid Jesus the diver in Panama to clean the bottom and Karl had inspected the bottom at sea yesterday and emerged totally blue. We also had friends around the world praying that no barnacles were to be found (thanks for your prayers).

So this morning our appointment with the 8 inspectors including 2 divers was at 10. We started with several hours of more compulsive cleaning. We had spent a day in Panama cleaning with sponges in the bilge and q-tips for the wood works. I learned the Qtip trick from my jet pilot sister who used to have to detail private jets between flights. Figured if it works on jets it would work on the Mabel Rose. At 945 I found a giant bug next to my secret stash of money. So much for our fumigation certificate. I squished it, wrapped in paper towel and put it in the food waste and hoped they did not inspect an there were no more giant bugs. We are ready for our final examination.

The two divers come first. One quickly jump in, disappearing under the hull with no tank. Karl and I stare at each other �" will we flunk? Within 90 seconds the diver is hauling himself back onto the water taxi like a sea lion and his companion give us the OK sign with his fingers. We passed the first part of the test. The other 6 inspectors and our agent arrive next. The medical kit test was a breeze. The doctor said enough before I got half the medical modules out. I passed the random crew member medical test (pulse, temperature breathing ok). We passed the food test with our remaining fruit (2 lemons) and no fresh meat. Karl worked through the garbage protocol, the bilge and multiple signatures. Soon the cockpit full of inspectors were taking selfies and we had passed our final exam.

After 3000 miles of sailing, two major engine jobs, lost sleep, 9 days of upwind sailing, more paperwork and protocols than we have ever done before, obsessively compulsively cleaning the boat for days, we passed and could set ashore. Finches, Lizards, Iguana Ice Cream and Menu del Dia's were waiting for us.