At lunch the ketchup refused to stay on the table during the gusts. A sailor friendly restaurant Chez Jimmy with WIFI fuel and grocery deliveries drew us here. After the relative isolation of Fatu Hiva, we thought a day of good internet would be good. Chez Jimmy had been our original anniversary dinner goal until the winds were perfect for an easy trip to Fatu Hiva. This is also another harbor where others had warned us we would not be able to land in our kayaks. Approaching the dock (quai here)we were comforted to see a kayak resting at a mooring used as a dinghy by locals and two wooden outrigger canoes. Locals use paddles. We were able to land with no drama.

We strolled through town scoping out the grocery store, reserving our baguettes for the afternoon and finding the little museum. The architecture of the museum and the town government complex was fist sized black basalt rocks on the bottom and woven palms on the top. At the museum an archeologic site where the first residents settled 700 years ago provides a focus on the history beyond ceremonial platforms (paepae) and tiki. In the 1980's a scientist from Hawaii discovered the remains of an early village. The museum has many of the artifacts displayed ranging from everyday to exotic, Everyday items included fishhooks made from oyster shells and rounded pieces of black basalt turned into fishing weights and anchors . Exotic included porpoise teeth that once formed a ceremonial crown, similar to one once displayed at the Met on 5th Avenue. Photographs revealed how much change has occurred. When the archeologic site was discovered the beach, front was interlaced boulders and sand where outrigger canoes rested. Today the beachfront is entirely boulders, perfect parking for the Toyota pickup trucks the mode of transport. Paddlers must use the dock. Intrigued by the archeologic site we set off to find it.

As usual we ended up at the town generator always at the edge of town. The site was tucked in on the edge of the harbor next to a sacred banyan tree with its multiple stalks. I had hoped to find the poi pit where early settlers fermented breadfruit but the museum map has no north or beach on it so I remain disoriented. Karl patiently waits while I walk about trying to find the pit.

We head back to town hoping we have timed it perfectly for our long-awaited meal Chez Jimmy's. The slender woman at the door apologies, they are closed and she point to the snack shack up the road. Also closed. The baker points us to the beach where a van is permanently parked with three picnic tables framed by a wooden fence and covered by a tin roof. Two elementary school kids, a boy and girl sit at the middle table looking antsy. Vacation had ended yesterday and the time to be able to play in the water endlessly was over. When we walked by the school kids were all heading home for lunch in a culture where eating together is not a routine. Out arrival did not help. Their grandmother and mother appeared from the van and shooed them into the parking lot. Tears followed. The grandmother rolled her eyes and asked us if we wanted rice or fries. We can watch the Mabel Rose at anchor as the wind picks up and the ketchup flies. The Mabel Rose dances but stays put. The wind blows here.

We return to Chex Jimmy's to see if we can use the internet even if they are not open and are given the password for 100 francs. Two wooden benches become out home for the next hour as Karl downloads movies and I look for materials on the Marquesas'. Going to the bathroom gave us a chance to walk through the compound. Neatly stack pyramids of empty rum bottles, the grandmother under a tin room on a bed watching a flat screen television, dogs eating mangos and a sign for men to urinate outside. We try to write postcard sand a gust launches several into the sea. On our way to the post office we stop to admire the church constructed of more fist sized black basalt stones with a woman carving of Mary under the steeple. Karl notes how she resemble the Tiki on the road in front. A woman rings the church bell and I flee not wanting to get caught in my third mass in a week.

Our return the boat is well timed as the afternoon valley wind acceleration picks up and we are seeing gusts of 38 knots with the tops of waves blowing off and small water devils forming at the points of land. The wind does blow here.