When I got ready to head out to English tea this afternoon, I put on fresh clothes and do not pack my swimming gear. I always tuck in my goggles, cap and swimsuit so I am ready. But this is tea. The idea of swimming in Taioha’e Bay was also dampened by hip California couple who the pedaled by in a low red boat to warn us of black tipped sharks.

We are now anchored in Taioha’e, the metropolis of the Marquesas. Electric lights on three sides and a huge constellation of almost 20 masthead lights surround us. Music has filled the anchorage all day a noticeable contrast to the morning.

Five miles and two mountain ridges to the west we awoke after ocean swells bouncing off the cliffs to the west rocked the boat. As we linger over breakfast, we know this is our last wild anchorage. I return the crab who appeared in the sink back into the bay and watch the rays and bait fish chase the tiny red nosed shrimp that filled my plankton net. The frigate birds, bobbies and fisherman are all chase the fish.

The plus of arriving at this bustling city was the chance to see the only boat from our Galapagos to Marquesas fleet we had not seen. Robert and Denise from Invictus, the Australians who had hand steered most of the way after their auto pilot failed are anchored here. We circle their blue boat three times hailing them and after a brief chat are invited to afternoon tea. Now is time to clean repair and provision for the next passages.

While Karl repairs sails and tables, I organize the ROV and clean including the wine stains from the cockpit. The anchorages here are notorious for being rolly and one evening when we served wine in glasses with stems it went flying. I was waiting till things settled down to clean the red stains that looked like someone was murdered up. By late afternoon things are not perfect but the boat looks better.

We change and head out to for tea, a little late because the projects took longer and the conversation with the hip couple took a time. Invictus is a 57 feet Benateau with beautiful woodwork. It is a pleasure to sit and talk with Robert and Denise sharing our stories and our experience with the Marquesas. Strong black tea is served from a blue ceramic tea pot that matches the color of the boat together with homemade date nut cake. While they have been stuck here for three weeks since arriving, they plan on returning next summer to cruise all the islands. Robert has prepared us an annotated map of the town that will be helpful but feels so different from the touring we have been doing. As night falls, I nudge Karl to go but a tour of their beautiful boat is first.

The roll is pretty heavy as we enter the kayaks. Karl gets in successfully but I miss and am soon swimming. Glad I passed on the wine. So much for those fresh clothes. At least I keep the dry bag safe and did not lose my sailing shoes. A quick scramble up the swim ladder and try the second attempt works. After paddling across the harbor in the dark, climbing aboard the Mabel Rose in a roll is more familiar and easier. We decide to eat down below to where the roll is slightly less while enjoying the cozy sense of home down below. Taking a cue from my cleaning of the wine stains, Karl put out our most stable wine glasses. The harbor reminds us she is rolly and launched a glass of wine. The good news the wind fountain misses the upholstery and the area I cleaned today. This wine is pretty bad and it no tears are shed over this spill.