Working on My Pepeha
13 November 2022
• Wellington
by robin
Today was leftover breakfast made from tidbits from the boat (hard boiled eggs, cheese, bread), goodies snagged a close to the kauri forests (avocados in season here and tangerines) plus two pots of motel press coffee. A perfect start for our recovery day from the Tongariro Crossing. The grey drizzle and low cloud cover made us happy we had jumped at the chance to do the crossing yesterday. The rain is lighter but the cloud cover is low and denser.
Kurt, who checked us is is Maori and French Polynesian. I asked Gillian when she picked us up yesterday is Kurt would be able to help me with my pepehe, introduction to my talk. When we walk into the office, in our rain gear again for another walk, Kurt is there ready to help. First we learn on his heritage. His 21st grandfather Ngatoroirangi named the Tongariro Mountains as ha traveled through the region. Kurt quickly pulled up a carving of Ngatoroirangi in Lake Taupo. Kurt's tattoos are tell the story of his genealogy and his keen interest in learning and knowledge. A tattoo artist who specializes in Maori tattoos designed them based in background and family history. A Maori tattoo artist will not given just anyone a Maori tattoo, an interesting contrast with the Marquesan business of offering anyone a tattoo. Kurt's tattoos are symmetric stair step structures echoing Maori carved meeting houses.
Karl is antsy to get hiking both here and in Rivendell but patiently takes a photo of Kurt and his 21st grandfather and lets me work on my pepehe. Kurt's lesson starts with your name then moves onto mountain, river and tribe. He was very clear that for his generation if you are not Maori your tribe can be your business or your job. So we think Columbia University will work for my tribe as people will recognize the name. We discuss whether your mountain is where you come from or where you seek refuge. At the shoe store I used Monadnock, the mountain I first climbed when I was four years old but Monadnock is not my refuge, my space of peace. My refuge is the Adirondacks where we spent the pandemic, celebrated Christmas, Thanksgiving, Justin and Danielle's wedding and many of my mermaid soul mates are still swimming outdoors. "Ko Mabel Rose te waka" will announce my canoe. I will try to share a complete recording tomorrow to get his feedback.
Waterfalls, driving, finishing our Canadian mystery on tape and Rivendell took up the rest of the day. Rain at the waterfalls and low setting sun treating through the rainforest at Rivendell captures the essence of New Zealand. A tall building looking over Wellington harbor's containerships and sailboats is our home for the night.
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