We took the Interislander Ferry from Wellington today, to start our tour of the South Island. It was a placid day and a pleasant trip across the Cook Strait. In Picton we hopped the “mail boat” for a trip to back up the Marlborough Sounds to the wonderful Mahana Lodge on Punga Cove in Endeavor Inlet. It was not really a mail boat, just a water taxi that made mail drops at residences along the sound, as much for the entertainment of the passengers as for the benefit of NZ Post. It was a great way to see Queen Charlotte Sound without sailing our boat down here. Upon arrival at Mahana Lodge we capped off our waterborne day with a short kayak paddle in the rain, enjoying a little more of the rugged verdant mountains and serpentine coves of the sound.

Dinner at Mahana Lodge was an unexpected treat - David, the host, prepare a chefs table dinner for all of the guests, with a detailed explanation of the sourcing of all of the ingredients as well as the preparation and seasonings (well, most of the seasonings), The appetizer was a salmon mousse with bits of smoked salmon. The main course was seared lamb from a local farm with a merlot jus, served with orange glazed carrots, and sesame seed and goat cheese beets, and hassleback potatoes with a rosemary butter sauce. It may just be the best restaurant or lodge meal I have ever had.

The company was good, too - the other guests were all trampers on the Queen Charlotte track. One couple - a professional rugby player and his wife - had hiked 30k today. The other two couples were closer to our age, and had more modest mileage for the day. The water taxi service takes the trampers’ luggage to the next lodging each day.