A City of Masts
24 February 2011 | Georgetown, Exumas
Beth - high 80's
There are more boats here than we’ve seen before, and at night the mast head anchor lights look for all the world like those of a city. I heard a rumour that there are more than 320 of us in Elizabeth harbour - that open area of water between Stocking Island and the mainland. It is a huge area so boats aren’t crowded unless they want to be. As one cruises north to south, we pass by Monument Beach and Hamburger beach, then tiny Honeymoon Beach, and then the centre of action - Volleyball Beach. Tucked in behind that are the “Holes” - #1,2,3. Further down is Sand Dollar Beach where we stopped, and over on the other side is the flock of boats off Kidd Cove just outside the entrance to town, and south of that is Red Shanks - another tucked away little area.
We picked the Sand Dollar area because we wanted lots of space around Madcap for when the wind picks up later today and, being south of the town, we aren’t in any risk of sticking out in the channel where the freighters come in. We don’t get wifi on the boat, so it means a trip across the harbour to town or up to Volleyball beach to connect. Because it is a long trip across an open stretch of water, we have almost always gotten wet here, but things are better so far this year! Our new 9.5 ft AB dinghy with its higher sides, our faster Yamaha 15 hp outboard, and the calm wind in the last few days have meant very pleasurable crossings. While we used to take 20 minutes to do this crossing, we can fly across in 10 now. (A note about dinghies and motors here: We are so very happy with our new and improved models. We went for cheaper before and made do OK, but it is SO much more pleasant with the combination we have now that I would never advise anyone buying them to skimp on these two items.)
We pulled in right next to Kolibrie and were immediately invited to join them and others at a potluck on the beach. It was fun to see Bill and Barb (Suncast) and Diane and Ted (Boatel I) and to meet Axel and Mary Claire (Azaya) and Marsha and Chris (Endorphins) along with our Bayfield 36 pals, Pat and Wayne (Kolibrie).
We did more visiting on Tuesday, mingled with water jug filling at the dinghy dock and internet at Pet’s Place - a new and convenient little cafe in town. On our way in, we passed a boat with a big Nova Scotia flag flying so of course we had to stop by and meet Peter Henneberry from Eastern Passage. He had amazing tales to tell of his trip down here and was also able to give us first hand information about Cuba. He has been there already this year so as we chatted, I wrote down everything he said! There must be a dozen Nova Scotia boats here - it’s really fun to see them and meet them. Interestingly, it seems to be the Quebeckers and the Nova Scotians (Madcap among them) who fly our provincial flags along with the red maple leaf.
Mary Lou and Bob (Cygnus) are just a bit behind us. We haven’t seen these old friends from MD since our brief visit to Georgetown last year and were delighted to join them and their friends Judy and John (Luna Sea) and Sandra and Chuck (Eliora) for Happy Hour. Sapphire left early in the morning, so although I had a quick chat with Mike, we’ll have to wait till later to see them.
Jim had an early morning flight out of here on Wednesday and was able to share a taxi with guests of Boatel I, so we all assembled by the market at 6 am to see them off. During the rest of the day, I picked up water, checked out the grocery store, and ordered new Cuba charts from Bluewater Books in Fort Lauderdale. Apparently there are brand new ones for the North coast (NV charts) and since Jim has to overnight in Washington, they will send them there, saving us some shipping costs. A number of boats in the area are planning March trips to Cuba from Ragged Island and it is exciting to connect with them and make some plans - still etched into soft sand of course!
Chris Parker (the weather guy) arrives here on Saturday and will be giving weather seminars all week, so I joined the hoards of other boaters in registration line at St. Francis conference centre. I plan to attend Basic Weather on Saturday, and I’ve signed Jim up for the one on web weather and grib files when he returns. (Hope he thinks it’s a good choice!!) We’ll be here for the first few days of regatta this year so we’ll take in a few other events too.
Last night was Happy Hour at Hamburger Beach and after debating whether I’d go or not, I decided to head on up there and I’m glad I did! The food was fine and the conversations many. I met up with the crews of Oz and Star of the Sea, Cygnus and Luna Sea, and met Ann and Joe (Short Walk) and Jane and Gary (Dream Catcher). Just after dark, Connie helped me push the dinghy off the beach and Ken insisted that I call to report a safe arrival home. Mary Lou and Bob offered an escort if I needed one. I have to tell you, it was so thrilling to captain my own little dinghy through the anchored boats and then plane down the harbour outside the city of lights and under the stars. While I love cruising with my great partner, Jim, his trips back to Canada this year have allowed me to experience the thrill of doing things on my own and being solely responsible for Madcap. It is wonderfully reassuring to know that I have good friends nearby who offer company and support whenever I want it, and so far, there have been no challenges, so I am one contented cruiser.
Now ... off to start another day. I have jobs to do, places to go and people to see!!